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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and Universal Wiring Kit engineered for the 2023 - 2026 Audi Q4 e-tron Without factory receiver. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Volkswagen ID.4, Audi Q4 e-tron and Q4 e-tron Sportback (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 3,000 lbs. GTW and 300 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 - 2026 | Audi Q4 e-tron | Without factory receiver |
The 23 - 25 Audi Q4 e-tron Without factory receiver Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13492 (Part #CHW-66) fits the following vehicles: 2023-2025 Audi Q4 e-tron. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 23 - 25 Audi Q4 e-tron Without factory receiver Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13492 (Part #CHW-66) fits 2023-2025 Audi Q4 e-tron models. The 2025 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 23 - 25 Audi Q4 e-tron Without factory receiver Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13492 (Part #CHW-66) is designed to fit the 2023-2025 Audi Q4 e-tron.
The 23 - 25 Audi Q4 e-tron Without factory receiver Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13492 (Part #CHW-66) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13492 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 300 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, or year. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
You will need: torque wrench, Torx bits (T15 and T25), 13mm socket, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, and a panel trim removal tool. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes 7 M8 hex bolts and 7 conical-toothed washers (3/8"). These fasteners secure the hitch to the vehicle frame.
Yes. Installation requires removal of the bumper fascia panel, underbody panels, wheel well trim, and bumper beam. The bumper beam is removed by disconnecting its electrical connection and unbolting seven M8 bolts using a 13mm socket. All components are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Thirteen screws must be removed from the vehicle underbody panel using a T-25 Torx bit, plus two retainer-style fasteners from the lower fascia panel using a T-15 Torx bit, and one push-style fastener securing the rear underbody panel to additional protective panels.
Yes. The license plate must be removed and set aside. Two screws are located in the space behind the license plate location and must be removed using a T-25 Torx bit. The license plate is reinstalled after the hitch installation is complete.
No. Total wheel well trim removal is not required. You only need to carefully separate the wheel well trim starting from the rearward-most part and working upward to access the fasteners. Depressing or compressing clips from the backside of the trim will assist in separating it.
1. Remove underbody panel fasteners (13 screws, 2 retainers, 1 push fastener). 2. Remove rear fascia panel screws and taillight cover. 3. Separate wheel well trim and remove fascia panel fasteners. 4. Remove fascia panel and disconnect electrical wiring. 5. Disconnect bumper beam electrical connection and remove seven M8 bolts. 6. Install hitch with M8 hex bolts and conical-toothed washers, torque to 23 ft-lbs, reconnect bumper beam electrical. 7. Reinstall fascia panel and reconnect electrical. 8. Reinstall all screws, fasteners, and license plate.
You may need to bend the small bumper beam hang tabs on each end of the bumper beam flat during reinstallation. This is noted as a potential requirement but not mandatory for all installations.
The receiver tube passes through a cutout located below the license plate location in the bottom of the fascia panel during reinstallation.
The M8 hex bolts securing the hitch must be torqued to 23 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Yes. You must disconnect the electrical connection from the bumper beam before removal (Step 5) and reconnect it after the hitch is installed (Step 6). You must also disconnect and reconnect the electrical wiring from the bumper fascia panel during its removal and reinstallation (Steps 4 and 7).
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. To help prevent damage to the product or vehicle, verify that all hardware was torqued to the specified 23 ft-lbs.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Moderate. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact CURT at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific make, model, and year.
Torque wrench, T15 and T25 Torx bits, 13mm socket, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, and panel trim removal tool. See curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation for a full tools reference guide.
Torque the M8 hex bolts to 23 ft-lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity (3,000 lbs GTW, 300 lbs tongue weight).
Wear safety glasses during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Perform periodic inspections to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight.
Verify all M8 hex bolts are torqued to 23 ft-lbs. Ensure all mounting hardware is tight and structural components are secure. Perform periodic inspections to maintain the hitch.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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