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2023 - 2024 Kia Sportage
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S5 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Heavy Duty, Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 - 2024 | Kia Sportage | — |
The 23-24 KIA Sportage 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1634 (Part #HBCW1634) fits the following vehicles: 2023-2024 Kia Sportage. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 23-24 KIA Sportage 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1634 (Part #HBCW1634) fits 2023-2024 Kia Sportage models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 23-24 KIA Sportage 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1634 (Part #HBCW1634) is designed to fit the 2023-2024 Kia Sportage.
The 23-24 KIA Sportage 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1634 (Part #HBCW1634) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 12158 is designed for 2017-current Kia Sportage SUVs. This is a weight-carrying hitch with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 3,500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 350 lbs.
No. The CURT 12158 is designed for 2017-current Kia Sportage models only. It is not compatible with earlier model years.
The CURT 12158 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight of 350 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
You will need: a ratchet, 17mm socket, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, flathead screwdriver, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential because the M10 fasteners must be torqued to exactly 48 lb-ft.
The hitch includes 8 M10x1.25 hex head cap screws (part 10-10271) and 8 conical toothed washers 7/16 inch (part 30-00163). These fasteners attach the hitch to the vehicle's existing weldnuts on both frame rails.
No. The CURT 12158 requires no drilling. It attaches to existing weldnuts on the vehicle's frame rails using the supplied M10 fasteners.
Yes. You must temporarily remove underbody panels (3 plastic clips on each side) and lower the exhaust by detaching 2 exhaust isolators. These components are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends having a second person available, though it does not explicitly state that one person cannot complete the installation alone.
The M10 fasteners must be torqued to 48 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure this specification is met exactly.
The CURT 12158 is designed for use with ball mount part number 45521. Euro mount options are also available: part 45571 (1 7/8 inch ball) and part 45572 (2 inch ball).
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads can be carried, but they must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the hitch.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation.
The CURT 12158 fits 2017-current Kia Sportage SUVs only. It has a 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight capacity.
No drilling is required. The hitch attaches to existing weldnuts on the vehicle frame rails using supplied M10 fasteners.
You need a ratchet, 17mm socket, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, flathead screwdriver, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential for tightening fasteners to 48 lb-ft.
Yes. You must temporarily remove underbody panels and lower the exhaust by detaching 2 exhaust isolators. Both are reinstalled after hitch installation.
M10 fasteners must be torqued to 48 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
Non-trailer loads require CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to use them voids the warranty. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's towing capacity.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56321 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Kia Sportage SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans (S). Verify your vehicle matches the application before purchasing.
The Curt 56321 is a Custom Wiring Harness with a Wiring Location Guide that integrates with your vehicle's taillight and battery systems to provide trailer lighting control. It includes a converter box and a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, and sealant (not provided). A 3/32" drill bit is also needed if drilling a pilot hole for the ground wire.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with 4-pin and 12-pin connectors, a black converter box, a 4-flat dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a ring terminal and screw for the ground wire, and cable ties for securing loose wires. Sealant is not provided and must be purchased separately.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any installation work.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Signal circuits are rated at 7.5 amps per side. Tail and Running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The vehicle 12-pin connectors are located underneath the vehicle on the driver side, behind the rear tire. They will be similar in appearance to the connectors on the custom wiring harness. Separate them carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
Open the tailgate and remove all trunk floor coverings. Remove the fasteners securing the rear scuff panel and pull it out at the bottom then up, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs. On the driver side, remove the fasteners and cargo tie down from the side trim panel and pull it back. Remove the two fasteners securing the taillight and gently pull it rearward to access the taillight wiring harness connectors.
Yes. You must cut slits in two grommets: one behind the taillight (Step 10) to route the custom wiring harness end with the 4-pin connector and red wire, and one in the floor pan (Step 13) to route the custom wiring harness end with the 12-pin connectors and yellow wire. The slits must be large enough to accommodate the wiring harness ends. After routing the wires, reseal the grommets with sealant.
You may need to drill. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
The harness includes: a red wire (routes through the taillight grommet with the 4-pin connector), a yellow wire (routes through the floor pan grommet with the 12-pin connectors), a black power wire (connects to the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet), and a white ground wire (connects to a grounding point near the connector using the provided ring terminal and screw).
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location.
Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent movement and potential damage.
Reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the wiring harness for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting work. When drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Take care not to damage the locking tabs on connectors or the alignment tabs on panels when separating or removing them. Do not exceed the product rating (10-amp fuse max) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding these can cause overheating and potential fire.
The 4-flat connector is the trailer connection point. When in use, it should be routed to the center of the vehicle for connection to a trailer. When not in use, it should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. A dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion.
Yes, the Curt 56321 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Kia Sportage SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans (S).
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation.
10-amp maximum. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yes, you must cut slits in the taillight grommet and floor pan grommet to route the wiring harness. After routing, reseal both grommets with sealant.
You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable existing grounding point (screw with nut) is available in the vehicle frame. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Do not exceed the product rating (10-amp fuse) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either can cause overheating and potential fire.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All installation steps must be followed to ensure proper operation.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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