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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 750 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps Per Circuit |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1995 - 2004 | Kia Sportage | Convertible |
The 95-04 KIA Sportage Convertible 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1643 (Part #HBCW1643) fits 1995-2004 Kia Sportage models. The 2004 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 95-04 KIA Sportage Convertible 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1643 (Part #HBCW1643) fits the following vehicles: 1995-2004 Kia Sportage. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 95-04 KIA Sportage Convertible 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1643 (Part #HBCW1643) is designed to fit the 1995-2004 Kia Sportage.
The 95-04 KIA Sportage Convertible 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1643 (Part #HBCW1643) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13420 is designed for 2020-present Kia Telluride SUVs. Before purchasing, verify your vehicle year and model match this specification, and confirm your vehicle's towing capacity meets your trailer requirements.
No. CURT part number 13420 is specified for 2020-present Kia Telluride models only. Earlier model years are not supported by this hitch.
The CURT 13420 supports a maximum trailer weight of 5,000 lbs and tongue weight of 750 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, it supports 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weighs 45 lbs.
Professional installation takes approximately 90 minutes. DIY installation for a novice typically takes 39 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on your experience level and familiarity with the vehicle.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. You can reach CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 11mm socket, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, straight screwdriver, 19mm boxed end wrench, tape measure, masking tape, marker, aviation shears, and safety glasses. Using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce installation time.
The hitch includes: 4× M10×1.25 hex head cap screws (part 10-10271), 4× M12×1.75 hex head cap screws (part 10-10283), 4× M12×1.75 hex nuts (part 20-00136), 8× 1/2-inch S-CON washers (part 30-00149), and 4× 7/16-inch S-CON washers (part 30-00163). The fasteners install into existing vehicle weldnuts in the frame.
No. The CURT 13420 requires no drilling. The fasteners install into existing vehicle weldnuts in the frame.
Yes. The lower bumper cover must be trimmed to allow clearance for the hitch. Using a tape measure, mark the lower bumper cover as shown in the installation diagram and trim as needed with aviation shears. The exact trimming measurements are shown in the installation walkthrough diagram on page 3.
Three components must be temporarily removed or lowered: (1) the spare tire, lowered using an 11mm socket and ratchet; (2) the driver side underbody panel, removed by removing 3 push clips and turning 2 plastic retainers counterclockwise with a 14mm socket; and (3) the exhaust, lowered by unhoking the 4 rearward-most exhaust isolators. The exhaust must be supported during this process. All three are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Lower the spare tire using an 11mm socket and ratchet. Place the spare off to the side. After the hitch is installed and torqued, raise the spare tire back into position.
Remove the driver side underbody panel by removing 3 push clips and turning 2 plastic retainers counterclockwise with a 14mm socket. After the hitch is installed, reinstall the underbody panel.
Unhook the 4 rearward-most exhaust isolators to lower the exhaust. Be sure to support the exhaust during this process. After the hitch is installed and torqued, reinstall the exhaust isolators.
Raise the hitch into position over the exhaust and loosely install all fasteners as shown in the installation diagram on page 2 or 5. Do not fully tighten fasteners at this stage. Once all fasteners are loosely installed, proceed to torque them to specification.
Torque all M12×1.75 fasteners (12mm) to 79 lb-ft and all M10×1.25 fasteners (10mm) to 48 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. When lowering the exhaust, be sure to support it properly to prevent injury or damage. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection is important for safe towing operation.
Yes. The CURT 13420 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
The CURT 13420 is designed for 2020-present Kia Telluride SUVs only. Verify your vehicle year and model match before purchasing.
Maximum 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight as a weight-carrying hitch; 6,000 lbs trailer and 750 lbs tongue as a weight-distribution hitch. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No drilling required. The fasteners install into existing vehicle weldnuts in the frame.
Yes, the lower bumper cover must be trimmed to allow clearance for the hitch using aviation shears. Trim as shown in the installation diagram.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 11mm/14mm/17mm/19mm sockets, screwdriver, 19mm boxed end wrench, tape measure, masking tape, marker, aviation shears, and safety glasses.
Torque M12×1.75 fasteners to 79 lb-ft and M10×1.25 fasteners to 48 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
Professional installation: 90 minutes. DIY novice installation: 39 minutes. Actual time varies by experience level.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Support the exhaust when lowering it. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's towing capacity. Periodically check all fasteners remain tight.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
Part 56490 is a wiring location guide and powered converter lead system for SUVs and vans. It provides instructions for routing trailer lighting wires from the vehicle's factory taillight circuits through a powered converter module that allows the vehicle to power trailer lights. The system uses a 4-flat connector to interface with trailers.
Part 56490 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual specifically references Sorento-specific power source routing at the fuse panel on the driver side under the hood. For compatibility with your specific vehicle make, model, and year, contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database, as the manual does not provide a complete vehicle compatibility list.
No. The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Do not use this product on positive ground vehicles.
Required tools are: ratchet, wire stripper, 10mm socket, wire crimper, socket extension, flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, electrical tape, and cutting tool. You will also need a fish wire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) to route the harness through the vehicle body.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire housings, white ground wire with ring terminal, grounding screw, two-sided tape, zip ties, cable ties, fuse holder with 15-amp fuse (maximum), and ring terminal for battery connection. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Do not reconnect until all wiring steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight fastener covers. Use a panel trim removal tool or your fingers to remove the covers by pulling them toward the rear and toward the middle of the vehicle. Use a 10mm socket to remove the three bolts securing the taillight. Pull the taillight straight back to remove it. Locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside in a safe place. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
Fish wiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Route a fish wire (made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) down between the bumper cover and the vehicle body. Make sure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull it back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. This technique allows you to route the wiring harness from under the vehicle bumper up to the taillight cavity without removing interior panels.
Starting on the driver side, locate the housing with the yellow wire on the custom wiring harness. From under the vehicle bumper, attach this to the fish wire and pull the harness up to the taillight cavity. Attach the custom wiring harness to the vehicle's factory wiring and attach to the taillight. Set the taillight inside the taillight cavity but do not reinstall with hardware yet. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the housing with the green wire. The yellow wire is for the driver (left) side and the green wire is for the passenger (right) side.
Route the housing with the green wire along the bumper and secure it with zip ties as needed. This is done on the passenger side after completing the driver side installation. The green wire corresponds to the right turn signal circuit.
Locate a mounting spot for the module on the vehicle and secure it using the supplied two-sided tape and/or zip ties. The manual does not specify a particular location, so choose a spot that is protected from moisture and heat, and where the module will not interfere with vehicle operation or maintenance access.
Not necessarily. First, locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If an existing fastener is available, use it to secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal. Only if no suitable existing fastener is available should you drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint before securing the ground wire.
Drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole if an existing fastener is not available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the 12 GA power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being damaged and causing electrical faults or safety hazards.
The signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. This covers the left turn, right turn, and brake signal circuits.
The tail and running light circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routing from the vehicle battery to the converter module. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The wiring harness uses the following color scheme: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Taillight (running light). The custom wiring harness has yellow wire housing for the driver (left) side and green wire housing for the passenger (right) side. The white ground wire is used for the ground connection to the vehicle frame.
Route the 12 GA black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. For Sorento vehicles, the power source for the T-connectors will connect at the fuse panel on the driver side of the vehicle under the hood. For other vehicles, consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the appropriate power source location.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. First, locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If an existing fastener is available, use it. If not, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint before securing the ground wire. This ensures a solid electrical connection.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. This is a special configuration that differs from the standard four-wire trailer lighting system.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific vehicle's lamp load rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Do not reconnect the battery until all wiring steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32-inch pilot hole for the ground wire, as there may be wiring, fuel lines, or other components behind the surface.
Once the custom harness is installed, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights. The taillights on the vehicle to be towed should function along with the taillights on the vehicle that is powering them. You can also use a test light to verify proper function. All steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
No, not immediately. After attaching the custom wiring harness to the vehicle's factory wiring and to the taillight, set the taillight inside the taillight cavity but do not reinstall with hardware yet. Complete all other installation steps (routing the green wire, securing the module, connecting power and ground) and test the system. Only after verification that the system is functioning properly should you reinstall the taillights with the three bolts and fastener covers.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevents electrical faults or safety hazards.
Yes, part 56490 is designed for SUVs and vans. For specific vehicle make, model, and year compatibility, contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database.
No. This product is for 12-volt negative ground systems only.
Drilling is not required if an existing fastener is available for the ground wire. If no existing fastener is found, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
15-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the battery to the converter module.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, try the following: (1) Push the wire back down. (2) Wiggle it around to loosen it from what it is caught on. (3) Twist the wire to help free it. These techniques should help you work the fish wire and harness through the routing path without damage.
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