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This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Jeep Compass (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
CURT custom wiring is the best option for equipping your vehicle with a trailer wiring connector. It offers a vehicle-specific solution with no need for cutting, splicing or soldering. However, if custom wiring is not available for your specific vehicle, CURT offers the taillight converter -- a universal trailer wiring option. This CURT taillight converter provides a standard 4-way flat connection for hooking up your trailer lights to your vehicle. It features highly durable construction, able to withstand harsh elements, road salt and vibrations. The converter is built with a potted enclosure in which the electrical components are encased in a solid compound that seals them off from moisture and impacts. Even when mounted outside, underneath the vehicle, it provides long-lasting dependability. This taillight converter is compatible with a wide variety of vehicles, including models from Dodge, Ford, GM, Honda, Kia, Mazda, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Volkswagen, Volvo and many others (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). The converter is designed to convert a 3-wire vehicle system to function with a 2-wire trailer system. The converter features color-coded wires and a wiring guide for easier installation, and it comes with snap locks for a secure connection (a powered taillight converter wiring kit, such as the CURT #55151, is also required for installation). Most CURT taillight converters are constructed with surface-mount technology or SMT. This type of circuitry features smaller electrical components that mount directly to the face of the circuit board, resulting in reduced heat generation, enhanced performance under vibration conditions, maximum light intensity and maximum operating life. CURT converters are also fully tested, both optically and load-tested, to ensure reliable performance.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494The 24 - 25 Jeep Compass Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12174 (Part #CHW-1964) fits the following vehicles: 2024-2025 Jeep Compass. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 24 - 25 Jeep Compass Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12174 (Part #CHW-1964) fits 2024-2025 Jeep Compass models. The 2025 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 24 - 25 Jeep Compass Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12174 (Part #CHW-1964) is designed to fit the 2024-2025 Jeep Compass.
The 24 - 25 Jeep Compass Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12174 (Part #CHW-1964) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 12174 is designed for 2017.5–present Jeep Compass SUV models. The manual confirms this application. If your Compass is a tow hook equipped model, follow the alternative installation path (steps 5, 6, 8, and 9 only), which uses the existing 14mm hex bolts from the vehicle frame.
CURT 12174 is rated for a maximum of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The manual emphasizes this as a critical safety requirement.
CURT 12174 is designed for use with ball mount #45521 (euro mount). Optional ball mount configurations are available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball). Consult CURT's catalog or website for compatibility details.
Yes. All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Required tools are: T30 Torq bit, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 3/4" socket, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, pliers, die grinder, aviation shears or tin snips, tape measure, masking tape, marker, and safety glasses. The manual lists these as essential for proper installation.
The kit includes: (6) 1/2"-13 UNC carriage bolts, grade 8, 1-3/4" long (part 10-10272); (2) M8×1.25 hex cap screws, 45mm, class 10.9 (part 10-10464); (6) 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8 (part 20-00062); (6) 0.250" × 1.00" × 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP10); and (6) 1/2" fishwires (part 1_2 FISHWIRE). All fasteners are provided; no factory hardware is reused for the main hitch attachment.
Temporary exhaust removal is recommended to ease installation. You must remove the (1) nut on each of the (2) rearward most exhaust hanger brackets using a 13mm socket. Support the exhaust before removing the nuts to prevent damage. To fully remove the exhaust, loosen the nut at the bolted connection in the middle of the vehicle with a 15mm socket. The exhaust is reinstalled in step 9.
You must: (1) Remove (2) T30 screws attaching the bumper fascia to body mounts and save them for reinstallation; (2) Remove (3) sheet metal nuts holding the heat shield, remove the heat shield, and trim the exhaust attachment tabs from it, then reinstall the heat shield center; (3) Trim a 2 1/2" side-to-side and 2 5/8" lengthwise cutout from the bumper cover using aviation shears or tin snips. These dimensions are reference only—check hitch location on your vehicle before trimming.
Yes. You must use a die grinder to enlarge the rearward most holes in the bottom of the frame to allow the supplied carriage bolts and spacers to pass through. Remove any plastic hole covers first. This is a permanent modification to the vehicle frame.
Using pliers, bend the (2) small locator tabs flat on each exhaust bracket or remove them entirely. Then reinstall the exhaust hanger and replace the factory hardware with an M8 tap bolt on each side. These modifications allow the hitch to fit without interference.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes this as a helpful consideration, particularly when raising the hitch into position and managing the bumper cover.
The installation is rated as CHALLENGING. The manual requires removal and modification of the exhaust, heat shield, and bumper cover; die grinder work; and precise measurement and trimming. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners (carriage bolts and flange nuts) to 110 lb-ft. Torque all M8 fasteners (exhaust bracket bolts) to 23 lb-ft. The manual does not specify a torque value for M14 fasteners in the context of this hitch; the reference to 126 lb-ft for M14 appears in the general specifications but is not used in the 12174 installation steps.
Thread fishwires into the hitch mounting holes and raise the hitch into mounting position with the main body on the rearward side of the bumper fascia body mounts. Pull downward on the rear bumper cover approximately 5" to accomplish getting the hitch in position. Once positioned, remove the fishwires and install the (6) 1/2" hex flange nuts provided.
Standard installation sequence: (1) Remove bumper fascia screws; (2) Remove exhaust hanger nuts and support exhaust; (3) Remove and modify heat shield; (4) Enlarge frame holes and fishwire carriage bolts and spacers; (5) Mark and trim bumper cover cutout; (6) Modify exhaust brackets and reinstall with M8 bolts; (7) Raise hitch into position using fishwires and bumper cover; (8) Install flange nuts and torque fasteners; (9) Reinstall exhaust and bumper fascia screws. For tow hook equipped models, skip steps 2–3 and follow steps 5, 6, 8, and 9 only.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is critical to safe operation. The manual emphasizes this as a regular maintenance requirement, not a one-time check.
Wear safety glasses at all times while installing this product. Support the exhaust before removing hanger nuts to prevent damage. Use proper tools to improve installation quality and reduce time. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Yes. CURT 12174 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5, and SAE J684.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, CURT 12174 is designed for 2017.5–present Jeep Compass SUV. Tow hook equipped models use an alternative installation path.
T30 Torq bit, 13mm/15mm/3/4" sockets, 6" extension, ratchet, torque wrench, pliers, die grinder, aviation shears, tape measure, masking tape, marker, and safety glasses.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft and all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Support the exhaust before removing hanger nuts. If hesitant, contact an authorized CURT installer at 877-287-8634.
Periodically check the hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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