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2024 Kia EV9
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| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P5,P7 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Parts) |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 | Kia EV9 | — |
The 24-24 KIA EV9 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1588 (Part #HBCW1588) fits the following vehicles: 2024 Kia EV9. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 24-24 KIA EV9 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1588 (Part #HBCW1588) fits 2024 Kia EV9 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 24-24 KIA EV9 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1588 (Part #HBCW1588) is designed to fit the 2024 Kia EV9.
The 24-24 KIA EV9 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1588 (Part #HBCW1588) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56457 is a powered converter that enables trailer lighting on passenger cars. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail lights) into a 4-flat trailer connector. The converter includes a black converter box that mounts inside the trunk and a powered lead that connects to the vehicle battery for operation.
The Curt 56457 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify which makes, models, or years are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
Required tools are: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, flathead screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, paint marker, rag/towel, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, a powered lead with 12-gauge wire, cable ties, double-sided tape, sealant for the grommet, a ring terminal for the ground wire, a screw for the ground connection, a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse, a 4-flat dust cover, and butt connectors. The custom wiring harness with red, brown, yellow, and green wires is also included.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The power wire must not be connected to the battery until all other steps are complete and the system has been tested.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as Easy. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
The black converter box mounts on the driver side of the trunk, on a flat spot behind the trunk liner. It is adhered using the provided double-sided tape (Step 11). The manual does not specify exact dimensions or clearances for this location.
The installation involves three separate connections: (1) Insert the custom wiring harness end with red and brown wires between the separated driver-side taillight connectors (Step 4); (2) Insert the custom wiring end with brown and red wires through the grommet opening on the driver side (Step 6); (3) Insert the yellow wire to the driver-side turn signal (Step 9); (4) Insert the green wire to the passenger-side turn signal (Step 10). For each connection, separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully without damaging the locking tabs, insert the custom wiring end, and ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
In Step 5, run the green and yellow wires along the back of the vehicle to the center of the trunk. Remove the grommet in the lower rear of the trunk pan and route the wires through the hole. Secure the wires with zip ties as needed behind the trunk skid plate. In Step 8, locate the harness from the grommet hole in the trunk pan and route the yellow wire to the driver-side turn signal, securing loose wires with provided cable ties. Repeat this process with the green wire to the passenger-side turn signal (Step 10).
After routing the custom wiring through the grommet opening in Step 6, you must use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires. This prevents water and debris from entering the vehicle through the grommet hole.
Route the 12-gauge black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use existing grommets or add new ones to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Install the 10-amp fuse holder with fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not connect the power wire until the system has been tested with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. The white ground wire ring terminal attaches to the vehicle body using a provided screw. If a suitable existing hole is not available, you must drill a 3/32-inch hole. The manual also warns to check for miscellaneous items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Yes. In Step 6, you must locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. After routing the wires, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The power lead uses 12-gauge wire or larger. This wire routes from the vehicle battery to the converter system and must be protected from sharp edges using existing grommets, new grommets, or silicone.
The white ground wire ring terminal attaches to the vehicle body using a provided screw. If a suitable existing hole is not available, drill a 3/32-inch hole.
The custom wiring harness uses the following color code: Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn signal, Brown = Tail light. These wires connect to the corresponding vehicle taillight circuits and the 4-flat trailer connector.
The manual identifies seven wiring locations for passenger cars: P1 (behind driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk), P2 (behind passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk), P3 (behind driver side taillight housing, inside of trunk), P4 (behind passenger side taillight housing, inside of trunk), P5 (behind driver side rear bumper), P6 (behind center of rear bumper), and P7 (behind passenger side rear bumper). The installation uses locations P3, P5, and P7.
The manual does not specify a tow load rating. It states only that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for tow rating information.
Route the 12-gauge power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Disconnect the negative battery before wiring the power wire.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not install the fuse until all other steps are complete and the system has been tested.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Perform a functional test using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer before towing.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a 10-amp fuse holder. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Tail light. The power lead uses 12-gauge black wire to the battery and white wire for ground.
The CURT 11620 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs.
Yes. Installation requires drilling the rearward-most mounting holes in the bottom of the frame rails (Step 8), as well as enlarging existing access and mounting holes to allow carriage bolts and spacers to pass through (Step 6).
Yes. Step 2 requires lowering the exhaust by removing three rubber exhaust isolators. The manual notes that you must support the exhaust to prevent damage during this process.
Step 1 requires removing the driver-side underbody panel by removing three push fasteners and two nuts (using a 10mm socket) and one captured nut (using an 11mm socket). The lower rear fascia must also be removed in Step 3 by removing two screws and eight push fasteners, then pushing down on retaining fasteners while pulling the panel away from the vehicle.
Yes. Step 5 requires removing the heat shield and trimming it using the provided diagram for reference. The heat shield is then reinstalled without the rearmost nut on the bottom of the frame rail.
Yes. Step 11 requires trimming the bumper fascia using the provided diagram for reference. The trimmed fascia is then reinstalled using cable ties around the hitch where fascia supports were removed.
The kit includes: 4 carriage bolts (1/2"-13 x 1-1/2", grade 8), 4 square-hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 3"), 4 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"-13), and 2 cable ties (3/16" x 8").
Required tools are: ratchet, aviation shears, torque wrench, die grinder, 10mm socket, 11mm socket, 3/4" socket, 9/16" drill bit, drill, tape, 1/2" fishwire (4 qty included), tape measure, and flathead screwdriver. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are also needed for exhaust isolator removal if exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs (Step 10).
The fishwire technique (Steps 7 and 9) is used to guide carriage bolts and square-hole spacers through the enlarged mounting holes in the frame rails without losing them inside the frame. The coiled end of the fishwire is inserted through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, passed through the spacer, and threaded with the bolt. The wire is kinked to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pulled to guide the hitch into position and secure it with serrated-flange nuts.
Step 2 requires removing three rubber exhaust isolators. If exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench and a pry bar: slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod, then place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, and rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal. Support the exhaust to prevent damage.
1. Remove driver-side underbody panel (Step 1). 2. Lower exhaust by removing three rubber isolators (Step 2). 3. Remove lower rear fascia (Step 3). 4. Remove plastic fascia support brackets (Step 4). 5. Remove and trim heat shield (Step 5). 6. Enlarge access and mounting holes (Step 6). 7. Fishwire first set of bolts and spacers, raise hitch into position, and secure with nuts (Step 7). 8. Drill rearward-most mounting holes (Step 8). 9. Fishwire remaining bolts and spacers and secure with nuts (Step 9). 10. Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs (Step 10). 11. Trim bumper fascia and reinstall with cable ties (Step 11). 12. Reinstall exhaust isolators and underbody panel (Step 12).
Step 6 requires enlarging two holes: the access hole on the inside of the frame rail must be enlarged enough to allow a carriage bolt and spacer to pass through, and the mounting hole on the bottom of the frame rail must be enlarged enough to allow carriage bolt threads to pass through. The manual specifies using a die grinder and 9/16" drill bit as required tools, but does not specify exact final hole sizes.
Step 8 requires drilling the rearward-most mounting holes in the bottom of the frame rails using the hitch as a template. The manual does not specify exact hole locations or dimensions.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When lowering the exhaust (Step 2), support it to prevent damage. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Yes. Installation requires drilling the rearward-most mounting holes in the frame rails and enlarging existing access and mounting holes.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs with a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs.
You will need a ratchet, torque wrench, die grinder, drill with 9/16" bit, 10mm and 11mm sockets, 3/4" socket, aviation shears, tape, tape measure, flathead screwdriver, and 1/2" fishwire (included).
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs.
Yes. Three rubber exhaust isolators must be removed to lower the exhaust. Support the exhaust to prevent damage.
Yes. Both the heat shield (Step 5) and bumper fascia (Step 11) must be trimmed using the provided diagrams.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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