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This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Buick Regal Sport and Chevy Malibu (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
CURT custom wiring is the best option for equipping your vehicle with a trailer wiring connector. It offers a vehicle-specific solution with no need for cutting, splicing or soldering. However, if custom wiring is not available for your specific vehicle, CURT offers the taillight converter -- a universal trailer wiring option. This CURT taillight converter provides a standard 4-way flat connection for hooking up your trailer lights to your vehicle. It features highly durable construction, able to withstand harsh elements, road salt and vibrations. The converter is built with a potted enclosure in which the electrical components are encased in a solid compound that seals them off from moisture and impacts. Even when mounted outside, underneath the vehicle, it provides long-lasting dependability. This taillight converter is compatible with a wide variety of vehicles, including models from Dodge, Ford, GM, Honda, Kia, Mazda, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Volkswagen, Volvo and many others (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). The converter is designed to convert a 3-wire vehicle system to function with a 2-wire trailer system. The converter features color-coded wires and a wiring guide for easier installation, and it comes with snap locks for a secure connection (a powered taillight converter wiring kit, such as the CURT #55151, is also required for installation). Most CURT taillight converters are constructed with surface-mount technology or SMT. This type of circuitry features smaller electrical components that mount directly to the face of the circuit board, resulting in reduced heat generation, enhanced performance under vibration conditions, maximum light intensity and maximum operating life. CURT converters are also fully tested, both optically and load-tested, to ensure reliable performance.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494CURT part 12185 is designed for 2016-present Buick Regal Sportback and Chevrolet Malibu Sedan models only. Verify your vehicle year and model match these applications before purchasing. The hitch is not compatible with other Buick or Chevrolet models.
The CURT 12185 has a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs. trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight when used as a weight carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these ratings.
Required tools are: ratchet, 8 inch socket extension, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 11/16 inch socket, torque wrench, aviation shears, masking tape, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
No, drilling is not required. The CURT 12185 uses fishwire hardware to route bolts through existing access holes in the frame rails, eliminating the need for drilling.
On Chevrolet Malibu models, yes—temporary exhaust removal is required. You must remove the exhaust hanger, disconnect 4 M8 bolts from the exhaust brace and 2 M8 bolts from the exhaust flange, then slide the exhaust forward. On Buick Regal models, you only need to lower the exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators; full removal is not necessary. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Yes, heat shield trimming is required on both Buick Regal and Chevrolet Malibu models. You must remove 10 speed clips (5 from each side) to access the heat shields, trim them using aviation shears, and reinstall them on the vehicle. On Regal models only, you also need to trim the lower rear fascia.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the installation, having a second person will help, particularly when raising the hitch into position and managing the exhaust.
Torque all 7/16 inch hardware to 60 ft-lbs. Torque all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. These torque values apply to both the frame attachments and the inside lower bumper bolts. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension.
The kit includes: 4 bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/2 inch, Grade 8), 2 HHCS M10x1.5x70 bolts, 4 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8), 2 flange nuts (M10x1.5, Class 10), 4 square hole spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25 inch), and 4 pieces of 7/16 inch fishwire. All fasteners are zinc-plated.
1. On Malibu only: remove exhaust hanger and disconnect exhaust brace and flange bolts. 2. On Malibu only: slide exhaust forward and replace inside lower bumper bolts with supplied M10 bolts. 3. On Regal only: lower exhaust by removing rubber isolators. On both: remove speed clips and trim heat shields. 4. Fishwire the 7/16 inch bolts and spacers through access holes to frame rails. 5. Raise hitch into position, align rear attachment, and loosely install all flange nuts. 6. Torque all fasteners and reinstall exhaust.
Fishwire is a flexible wire included in the kit (4 pieces of 7/16 inch fishwire) used to route bolts through the frame rail access holes. In step 4, you fishwire 2 bolts and 2 spacers from the access hole to the mounting holes on each frame rail, keeping the fishwires attached until the hitch is raised into position in step 5. This eliminates the need for drilling.
Fasteners must be installed loosely first. In step 5, loosely install all 4 flange nuts on the frame attachments and the 2 M10 flange nuts on the inside lower bumper bolts. Only after the hitch is fully positioned and aligned should you torque all fasteners to their final specifications in step 6.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. The installation is rated as moderate to challenging difficulty.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Refer to the CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
CURT 12185 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Optional ball head options include 45571 (1 7/8 inch ball) and 45572 (2 inch ball). Consult the CURT catalog or website for compatibility details and to select the appropriate ball mount for your towing needs.
The access hole on each side of the vehicle is used to route the fishwire and bolts through to the frame rail mounting holes. This eliminates the need for drilling and allows the bolts to be installed from inside the vehicle without removing the bumper completely.
The CM-SP2 spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25 inch square hole spacers) are used during installation to properly position the bolts when fishwiring them through the access holes to the frame rail mounting holes. Two spacers are used per side (4 total in the kit).
The manual notes that clearing away caulk may ease installation. This refers to any factory caulk or sealant around the access holes or frame rail area that might interfere with fishwiring the bolts and spacers through to the mounting holes. Removing this material can make the fishwiring process smoother.
Yes, CURT 12185 is designed specifically for 2016-present Buick Regal Sportback and Chevrolet Malibu Sedan models. It is not compatible with other vehicle models.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses fishwire hardware to route bolts through existing access holes in the frame rails.
You need: ratchet, 8 inch socket extension, 13mm, 15mm, and 11/16 inch sockets, torque wrench, aviation shears, masking tape, and safety glasses. Proper tools improve installation quality and reduce time.
Torque all 7/16 inch hardware to 60 ft-lbs and all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
Yes, heat shield trimming is required on both models. Remove 10 speed clips, trim the shields with aviation shears, and reinstall. On Regal models, also trim the lower rear fascia.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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