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Complete CURT Class 4 2" trailer hitch and Universal Wiring Kit engineered for the 1973 - 1979 Ford F-100 Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next item is on your to-do list -- whether it's arriving at the jobsite before dawn or getting your travel trailer set up in time to see the sunset -- CURT class 4 trailer hitches offer greater towing power to let you Bring It. These custom receiver hitches are built to tackle bigger jobs and bolder adventures, all while giving you a custom fit for your vehicle. Class 4 hitches are available for a variety of makes and models, from pickup trucks and SUVs to full-size and commercial vans. This particular class 4 hitch fits certain years of the Dodge D100, D150, D200, D250, D300, D350, Ram 1500, 2500 or 3500 and Ford Bronco, F100, F150, F250, F250 HD or F350 (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 10,000 lbs. GTW and 1,000 lbs. TW. It can also accept a weight distributing hitch, offering a maximum WD capacity of 12,000 lbs. and a WDTW of 1,200 lbs. CURT class 4 tow hitches are as much suited for work as they are for play. With their high load capacities, they are typically used for towing larger trailers, including everything from a double-axle utility trailer or livestock trailer to a full-length camper or large boat trailer (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). All CURT class 4 receiver hitches come with a 2" receiver tube opening and all the necessary hardware for a complete installation. From light-duty to heavy-duty, every CURT custom hitch is engineered to be vehicle-specific, using actual vehicles to create the optimal design. We then combine high-strength steel, precise welding and a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and durable black powder coat to provide you with a hitch you can depend on. To prove it, we test all our hitches in accordance with SAE J684 for safety.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1973 - 1979 | Ford F-100 | Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body |
Yes, the 73 - 79 Ford F-100 Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 14001 (Part #CHW-1005) is designed to fit the 1973-1979 Ford F-100.
The 73 - 79 Ford F-100 Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 14001 (Part #CHW-1005) fits 1973-1979 Ford F-100 models. The 1979 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 73 - 79 Ford F-100 Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 14001 (Part #CHW-1005) fits the following vehicles: 1973-1979 Ford F-100. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 73 - 79 Ford F-100 Excluding 10" drop bumper, old body Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 14001 (Part #CHW-1005) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1973-1997 Ford F-Series trucks, except 1973-1979 crew cab models. Your 1985 F-150 is compatible. Note that if your truck has a lower spare tire, you will need to lower it before installation.
No. CURT model 14001 is not compatible with 1973-1979 Ford F-Series crew cab models. It fits 1980-1997 F-Series crew cabs and all other F-Series models from 1973-1997 (except the excluded crew cab years).
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1978-1997 Ford Bronco full size. Your 1990 Bronco is compatible. Note that the bumper bolts can be loosened and the bumper raised to increase clearance for the hitch during installation.
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1967-2002 Dodge full size vehicles. Your 1985 Dodge is compatible. If the bumper interferes with the receiver hitch, loosen the bumper brackets and reposition them upward, then re-tighten.
When used as a weight carrying hitch: 10,000 lbs trailer weight and 1,000 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight distribution hitch: 12,000 lbs trailer weight and 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weight is 50 lbs.
The kit includes: 6 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, part number 10-10288), 6 serrated flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, part number 20-00062), and 8 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00 inch, part number CM-SP1).
No. The kit includes all required fasteners: 6 carriage bolts and 6 flange nuts for the 6 mounting holes. You will also receive 8 spacers, with 2 spacers required at the middle mounting hole on each side (4 total) and 2 additional spacers included.
A torque wrench is required to tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. Drilling equipment is required to create the mounting holes using the step drilling method (1/8" pilot hole, then 3/8", then 1/2" final hole). For Ford Bronco installations, thin wire is needed for the fishwiring technique on the two forward bolts on each side.
Yes, if your 1973-1997 Ford F-Series has a lower spare tire, you must lower it before installation. The installation notes state "LOWER SPARE TIRE" for this application. After installation is complete, you can reposition the spare tire if necessary.
Yes, drilling is required. The manual explicitly states "DRILLING REQUIRED" and "NO TRIMMING REQUIRED." You must drill six 1/2" mounting holes using the step drilling method: first a 1/8" pilot hole, then 3/8", then finish with 1/2".
The step drilling method involves three stages: (1) drill a 1/8" pilot hole, (2) drill a 3/8" hole, (3) finish with a 1/2" hole. This method is required for Ford F-Series and Dodge full size installations to create the six 1/2" mounting holes.
Yes, you must drill six 1/2" holes on a Ford Bronco. However, the drilling procedure differs from F-Series: you do not use the step drilling method. The manual notes to "take extra care around the gas tank" when drilling. Additionally, the two forward bolts on each side must be fishwired (a thin wire wrapped around the bolt and through the spacer) due to tight gas tank clearance.
Fishwiring is a technique used on 1978-1997 Ford Bronco installations. It involves wrapping a thin wire around the end of the bolt and through the square hole spacer. This technique is required for the two forward bolts on each side of the Bronco due to tight clearance with the gas tank. The bolts are fed through using the access hole in the crossmember next to the frame.
You can use existing holes for the first two bolts. The Dodge installation procedure uses the existing 1/2" round holes at the rear of the frame for the first and third mounting positions. You then use the hitch as a template to drill the two remaining holes to 1/2" diameter. All six holes receive 1/2" carriage bolts and spacers.
No. The manual explicitly states "NO TRIMMING REQUIRED." Drilling is required, but no cutting, trimming, or modification of vehicle body panels is necessary.
All fasteners must be tightened to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all six mounting bolts on all vehicle applications (Ford F-Series, Ford Bronco, and Dodge full size).
The carriage bolts are 1/2-13 UNC (1/2 inch diameter, 13 threads per inch, Unified National Coarse), grade 8, 2 inches long. Part number 10-10288. Six bolts are included.
The flange nuts are 1/2-13 UNC (1/2 inch diameter, 13 threads per inch, Unified National Coarse), grade 8, serrated. Part number 20-00062. Six nuts are included.
The spacers are 0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00 inches (square hole spacers). Part number CM-SP1. Eight spacers are included in the kit.
Due to the large size of the middle mounting hole, a spacer must be placed between the hitch and the flange nut at that location on both sides. This means two spacers are used at the middle hole on each side (four total), with two additional spacers included in the kit.
1. Using the large hole in the hitch hanger as a guide, place it over the stock rivet on each side of the frame. Center the hitch and mark the six holes to be drilled. 2. Using the step drilling method (1/8" pilot, 3/8" intermediate, 1/2" final), drill the six 1/2" mounting holes. Place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer through each hole in the frame. 3. Raise the hitch into position and secure each bolt with a 1/2" flange nut. 4. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. 5. Reposition the spare tire if necessary.
1. Using the largest hole in the hitch hanger as a guide, place it over the stock rivet on each side of the frame. Center the hitch and mark the six holes to be drilled. 2. Drill the six 1/2" holes, taking extra care around the gas tank. 3. Place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer in each hole. For the two forward holes on each side, use the fishwiring technique (wrap thin wire around the bolt and through the spacer) and feed bolts through the access hole in the crossmember. 4. Raise the hitch into position and secure each bolt with a 1/2" flange nut. 5. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
1. At the rear of the frame, find the 1/2" round holes. 2. In the first and third 1/2" round holes, place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer down through the frame. 3. Raise the hitch into position and secure with a 1/2" flange nut on each bolt, hand tighten only. 4. Center the hitch and use it as a template to drill the two remaining holes to 1/2" diameter. 5. Place a 1/2" x 2" carriage bolt and spacer in all mounting holes and secure with a 1/2" flange nut. 6. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
For Ford F-Series and Ford Bronco, tighten fasteners to 110 ft-lbs after raising the hitch into position. For Dodge full size, hand tighten the first two bolts only when initially securing the hitch, then after drilling the remaining holes and installing all bolts, tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
For Ford F-Series and Ford Bronco: After using the large/largest hole in the hitch hanger as a guide over the stock rivet on each side of the frame, center the hitch on the frame before marking the six holes to be drilled. For Dodge full size: After hand tightening the first two bolts, center the hitch and use it as a template to drill the two remaining holes.
For Ford Bronco: The bumper bolts can be loosened and the bumper raised to increase clearance for the hitch. Re-tighten the bolts after installation. For Dodge full size: Loosen the bumper brackets and reposition them upward, then re-tighten.
If the 9/16" slots in the hitch hangers line up with the small 1/4" holes in the vehicle frame on some Ford F-Series models, drill these holes out to 1/2" to accommodate the carriage bolts.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection of fastener tightness is recommended.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 14001 has a gross load capacity of 10,000 lbs trailer weight / 1,000 lbs tongue weight (weight carrying) or 12,000 lbs trailer weight / 1,200 lbs tongue weight (weight distribution), but you must follow the lower of either the hitch capacity or your vehicle manufacturer's limit.
CURT 14001 fits 1973-1997 Ford F-Series (except 73-79 crew cab), 1978-1997 Ford Bronco full size, and 1967-2002 Dodge full size. Check your vehicle year and model against these ranges.
The kit includes 6 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 2" long), 6 flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC), and 8 square hole spacers. All fasteners are grade 8 steel.
Yes, drilling is required. You must drill six 1/2" mounting holes. For Ford F-Series, use the step drilling method (1/8" pilot, 3/8" intermediate, 1/2" final). For Ford Bronco and Dodge, drilling procedures differ. No trimming is required.
All fasteners must be tightened to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all six mounting bolts on all vehicle applications.
Weight carrying: 10,000 lbs trailer / 1,000 lbs tongue. Weight distribution: 12,000 lbs trailer / 1,200 lbs tongue. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. You must use the fishwiring technique for the two forward bolts on each side due to gas tank clearance. This involves wrapping thin wire around the bolt and feeding it through an access hole in the crossmember. Take extra care when drilling around the gas tank.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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