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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 7-Way RV Blade |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S5 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 10.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 10.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1977 - 1984 | Buick Electra | RWD |
The 77-84 Buick Electra RWD 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW182 (Part #HBCW182) fits 1977-1984 Buick Electra models. The 1984 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 77-84 Buick Electra RWD 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW182 (Part #HBCW182) is designed to fit the 1977-1984 Buick Electra.
The 77-84 Buick Electra RWD 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW182 (Part #HBCW182) fits the following vehicles: 1977-1984 Buick Electra. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 77-84 Buick Electra RWD 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW182 (Part #HBCW182) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13433 fits 2018-Present Chevrolet Traverse and Buick Enclave SUVs. Verify your vehicle year and model match before purchasing.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the CURT 13433 supports 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, it also supports 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The hitch weight is 40 lbs.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing vehicle attachment points and fasteners.
Required tools are: ratchet, 7mm socket, 15mm socket, 3/4" socket, 6" socket extension, T15 Torx bit, T20 Torx bit, torque wrench, screwdriver, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve the quality of installation and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation, though the manual does not specify this as mandatory. If you are hesitant to undertake the task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer.
Professional installation time is approximately 80 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 40 minutes. Actual time may vary based on experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
Open the tailgate. Pry open the 4 plastic covers below the tail lights and remove the 4 screws using a 7mm socket (2 each side). Remove the 2 screws connecting the bottom edge of the fascia to metal support tabs using a T20 socket. Remove the 8 screws connecting the wheel well liner to the fascia using a T15 socket (4 each side). Gently pull back the wheel well trim and remove the 2 screws connecting the fascia to the vehicle body with a 7mm socket (1 each side). Starting from the wheel well, gently pull off the fascia and unplug any wires attached.
Remove the 4 M10 nuts with a 15mm socket from the top bumper attachments (2 each side) and set them aside for re-attachment. Remove the 4 M10 bolts with a 15mm socket from the bottom bumper attachments (2 each side). Be sure to support the vehicle exhaust system as these bolts also attach the exhaust hangers. Return the bumper beam and bolts to the vehicle owner.
Raise the hitch into position over the bumper studs and install the M10 nuts removed earlier. Raise the exhaust hangers into position and install the M10 bolts with conical washers (teeth side towards hitch). Fishwire the carriage bolts and spacers into the vehicle frame through the access hole in the hitch, then install the serrated flange nuts.
Tighten all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft and all M10 fasteners to 45 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
The 1/2" carriage bolts (part number 10-10287) should be tightened to 110 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
The M10 bolts (part number 10-10414) should be tightened to 45 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
Reverse the process used in step 1 to re-install the fascia. Be sure to reconnect any plugs that were disconnected. The vehicle fascia has a removable panel for hitch usage that may be replaced when the hitch is not in use.
The kit includes: 4 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 1-1/2", grade 8), 4 square hole spacers (.250 x 1.00 x 2.00"), 4 serrated flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8), 4 M10x1.5 hex cap screws (45mm, class 10.9), 4 S-con washers (3/8"), and 4 pieces of 1/2" fishwire.
Fishwiring is a technique used to route the carriage bolts and spacers into the vehicle frame through the access hole in the hitch. The 1/2" fishwire (4 pieces included) is used to guide these fasteners into position before the serrated flange nuts are installed. This allows secure attachment to the frame without requiring drilling.
The conical washers should be installed with the teeth side towards the hitch.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Additionally, when removing the bumper in step 2, you must support the vehicle exhaust system as the M10 bolts also attach the exhaust hangers. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 13433 supports up to 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 750 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's manufacturer limit may be lower.
After installation is complete, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This maintenance is critical for safe towing operation.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound, but does not specify an exact inspection interval. Regular inspection before towing is recommended as a best practice.
The vehicle fascia has a removable panel for hitch usage that may be replaced when the hitch is not in use. The manual does not specify whether this panel is included with the hitch kit or is a separate vehicle component.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
The CURT 13433 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56393 custom wiring connector is designed for the Chevrolet Traverse. It is part of the SUVs, Mini & Full-Sized Vans (S) category and is installed behind the driver side rear bumper.
The Curt 56393 has the following maximum amperage ratings: Stop/Turn Light 10.0 amps total, Taillights 10.0 amps total, Backup 10.0 amps total, Power Circuit 30.0 amps total, and Trailer Brakes (3 axles/6 brakes) 20.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The following tools are required: ratchet, 15mm socket, socket extension, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and cutting tool.
The muffler may need to be lowered to access the vehicle taillight wiring connector located above the muffler on the driver side. If there is not enough room to use the trim panel removal tool to pry the connector away from the vehicle frame, you will need to remove the bolts securing the muffler bracket in place.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connector above the muffler on the driver side. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring connector end into the vehicle connector, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the other end of the custom wiring connector along the inside of the bumper toward the center of the vehicle to the 7-way mounting location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Route the wiring away from potentially hot surfaces such as the muffler, heat pipes, and heat shields.
Wiring must be routed away from potentially hot surfaces such as the muffler, heat pipes, and heat shields to prevent damage to the wiring insulation and potential electrical hazards or fire.
All connections must be complete before testing. If the vehicle is equipped with a brake control unit, use a properly wired trailer or a brake control tester. If the vehicle is not equipped with a brake control unit, use a properly wired trailer or test lamps. For the initial test, reset the electrical system by temporarily removing the vehicle key from the ignition. The positive battery output may not be active until the vehicle is started and the brake is depressed with the trailer connected.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, such as the muffler or muffler bracket bolts if they were removed to access the taillight wiring connector.
Yes, the Curt 56393 is designed for the Chevrolet Traverse and mounts behind the driver side rear bumper.
You will need a ratchet, 15mm socket, socket extension, flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and cutting tool.
Maximum ratings are: Stop/Turn Light 10.0 amps, Taillights 10.0 amps, Backup 10.0 amps, Power Circuit 30.0 amps, and Trailer Brakes 20.0 amps. Do not exceed these or the vehicle's lamp load rating.
The muffler may need to be lowered to access the taillight wiring. If there is not enough room, you may need to remove the muffler bracket bolts.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Route wiring away from hot surfaces like the muffler and heat shields.
Reset the electrical system by removing and reinserting the vehicle key. Use a properly wired trailer or test lamps to verify all connections. The positive battery output may not be active until the vehicle is started and the brake is depressed with the trailer connected.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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