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1977 - 1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser
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Complete CURT Class 2 1-1/4" trailer hitch and Universal Wiring Kit engineered for the 1977 - 1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Buick Estate Wagon, LeSabre or Roadmaster, Chevy Caprice, Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser and Pontiac Parisienne (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1977 - 1992 | Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser | — |
Yes, the 77 - 92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12041 (Part #CHW-2589) is designed to fit the 1977-1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser.
The 77 - 92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12041 (Part #CHW-2589) fits the following vehicles: 1977-1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 77 - 92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12041 (Part #CHW-2589) fits 1977-1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser models. The 1992 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 77 - 92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Curt 1-1/4", Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 12041 (Part #CHW-2589) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part number 12041 is designed for: 1991–1996 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon; 1977–1990 Buick Estate and Le Sabre station wagon; 1977–1996 Chevrolet Caprice wagon and Impala station wagon; 1977–1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser; and 1983–1986 Pontiac Safari and Parisienne station wagons. If your vehicle is not listed, this hitch is not compatible.
The manual specifies a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs. trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Check your vehicle's owner manual for the maximum towing limit.
The hitch weight is 80 lbs.
The hitch is designed for use with ball mount part number D-221 or 45522. Compatibility with other ball mounts is not documented in the manual.
The kit includes: 4× 3/8-16 UNC hex cap screws, grade 8, 1-1/2" long (part 10-10234); 2× 7/16-14 UNC U-bolts, 2-1/2" long (part 10-10571); 4× 3/8-16 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8 (part 20-00102); 4× 7/16-14 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8 (part 20-00103); and 4× 3/8" split-cone washers (part 30-00148).
No. You only need to remove the lower two bolts from each bumper shock mount located at the end of each frame rail. These bolts are discarded. The bumper itself remains in place.
Yes. You must drill two 1/2" diameter holes in each vehicle frame rail, for a total of four holes. The hitch frame brackets are used as a template to mark the drilling locations. These holes are permanent modifications to the vehicle frame.
Drill two 1/2" diameter holes in each frame rail. Use the holes in the hitch frame brackets as guides to mark the correct locations.
The holes in the bumper mount must accept a 3/8" diameter bolt. If the existing holes are smaller, you must enlarge them to 3/8" to fit the hitch attachment bolts.
Torque the 3/8" bolts to 45 lb.-ft.
Hand-tighten the U-bolts to 55 lb.-ft of torque. Do not over-tighten. Do not use an impact wrench.
No. When you first attach the hitch assembly to the bumper shock mount holes in step 2, do not tighten the bolts. Leave them loose until after you have drilled the frame rail holes and installed the U-bolts. Then torque the 3/8" bolts to 45 lb.-ft in the final step.
1. Remove the lower two bolts from each bumper shock mount and discard them. Enlarge the holes to 3/8" if needed. 2. Attach the hitch assembly to the shock mount holes without tightening. 3. Position the forward arms of the hitch against the bottom of the frame rails. 4. Using the hitch frame brackets as a template, drill two 1/2" holes in each frame rail. 5. Insert a 7/16" U-bolt into each vehicle frame at the drilled holes and bolt the hitch arms to the frame. Hand-tighten U-bolts to 55 lb.-ft. 6. Torque the 3/8" bolts at the shock mounts to 45 lb.-ft.
Non-trailer loads can be carried, but they must be supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Although the hitch is rated for 3,500 lbs. trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight, your vehicle may have a lower limit. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's specifications.
Periodically check the hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval or maintenance schedule beyond this periodic inspection.
Curt Manufacturing Inc. warrants the product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
1991–1996 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon; 1977–1990 Buick Estate and Le Sabre station wagon; 1977–1996 Chevrolet Caprice wagon and Impala station wagon; 1977–1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser; and 1983–1986 Pontiac Safari and Parisienne station wagons.
Yes. You must drill four 1/2" holes (two per frame rail) into the vehicle frame rails using the hitch brackets as a template.
A drill with a 1/2" bit, a torque wrench capable of measuring 45 and 55 lb.-ft, and standard wrenches or sockets for 3/8" and 7/16" fasteners. Do not use an impact wrench on the U-bolts.
U-bolts: 55 lb.-ft (hand-tighten, do not use impact wrench). 3/8" bolts at shock mounts: 45 lb.-ft.
3,500 lbs. trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight, but do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. All non-trailer loads must be supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps, or the warranty is voided.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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