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1978 - 1996 Ford Bronco
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 1,000 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 12,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,200 LB |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S6 |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1978 - 1996 | Ford Bronco | — |
The 78-96 Ford Bronco 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW786 (Part #HBCW786) fits 1978-1996 Ford Bronco models. The 1996 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 78-96 Ford Bronco 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW786 (Part #HBCW786) fits the following vehicles: 1978-1996 Ford Bronco. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 78-96 Ford Bronco 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW786 (Part #HBCW786) is designed to fit the 1978-1996 Ford Bronco.
The 78-96 Ford Bronco 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW786 (Part #HBCW786) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1973-1997 Ford F-Series trucks, except 1973-1979 crew cab models. Your 1985 F-150 is compatible. Note that if your truck has a lower spare tire, you will need to lower it before installation.
No. CURT model 14001 is not compatible with 1973-1979 Ford F-Series crew cab models. It fits 1980-1997 F-Series crew cabs and all other F-Series models from 1973-1997 (except the excluded crew cab years).
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1978-1997 Ford Bronco full size. Your 1990 Bronco is compatible. Note that the bumper bolts can be loosened and the bumper raised to increase clearance for the hitch during installation.
Yes, CURT model 14001 fits 1967-2002 Dodge full size vehicles. Your 1985 Dodge is compatible. If the bumper interferes with the receiver hitch, loosen the bumper brackets and reposition them upward, then re-tighten.
When used as a weight carrying hitch: 10,000 lbs trailer weight and 1,000 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight distribution hitch: 12,000 lbs trailer weight and 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weight is 50 lbs.
The kit includes: 6 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, part number 10-10288), 6 serrated flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, part number 20-00062), and 8 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00 inch, part number CM-SP1).
No. The kit includes all required fasteners: 6 carriage bolts and 6 flange nuts for the 6 mounting holes. You will also receive 8 spacers, with 2 spacers required at the middle mounting hole on each side (4 total) and 2 additional spacers included.
A torque wrench is required to tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs. Drilling equipment is required to create the mounting holes using the step drilling method (1/8" pilot hole, then 3/8", then 1/2" final hole). For Ford Bronco installations, thin wire is needed for the fishwiring technique on the two forward bolts on each side.
Yes, if your 1973-1997 Ford F-Series has a lower spare tire, you must lower it before installation. The installation notes state "LOWER SPARE TIRE" for this application. After installation is complete, you can reposition the spare tire if necessary.
Yes, drilling is required. The manual explicitly states "DRILLING REQUIRED" and "NO TRIMMING REQUIRED." You must drill six 1/2" mounting holes using the step drilling method: first a 1/8" pilot hole, then 3/8", then finish with 1/2".
The step drilling method involves three stages: (1) drill a 1/8" pilot hole, (2) drill a 3/8" hole, (3) finish with a 1/2" hole. This method is required for Ford F-Series and Dodge full size installations to create the six 1/2" mounting holes.
Yes, you must drill six 1/2" holes on a Ford Bronco. However, the drilling procedure differs from F-Series: you do not use the step drilling method. The manual notes to "take extra care around the gas tank" when drilling. Additionally, the two forward bolts on each side must be fishwired (a thin wire wrapped around the bolt and through the spacer) due to tight gas tank clearance.
Fishwiring is a technique used on 1978-1997 Ford Bronco installations. It involves wrapping a thin wire around the end of the bolt and through the square hole spacer. This technique is required for the two forward bolts on each side of the Bronco due to tight clearance with the gas tank. The bolts are fed through using the access hole in the crossmember next to the frame.
You can use existing holes for the first two bolts. The Dodge installation procedure uses the existing 1/2" round holes at the rear of the frame for the first and third mounting positions. You then use the hitch as a template to drill the two remaining holes to 1/2" diameter. All six holes receive 1/2" carriage bolts and spacers.
No. The manual explicitly states "NO TRIMMING REQUIRED." Drilling is required, but no cutting, trimming, or modification of vehicle body panels is necessary.
All fasteners must be tightened to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all six mounting bolts on all vehicle applications (Ford F-Series, Ford Bronco, and Dodge full size).
The carriage bolts are 1/2-13 UNC (1/2 inch diameter, 13 threads per inch, Unified National Coarse), grade 8, 2 inches long. Part number 10-10288. Six bolts are included.
The flange nuts are 1/2-13 UNC (1/2 inch diameter, 13 threads per inch, Unified National Coarse), grade 8, serrated. Part number 20-00062. Six nuts are included.
The spacers are 0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00 inches (square hole spacers). Part number CM-SP1. Eight spacers are included in the kit.
Due to the large size of the middle mounting hole, a spacer must be placed between the hitch and the flange nut at that location on both sides. This means two spacers are used at the middle hole on each side (four total), with two additional spacers included in the kit.
1. Using the large hole in the hitch hanger as a guide, place it over the stock rivet on each side of the frame. Center the hitch and mark the six holes to be drilled. 2. Using the step drilling method (1/8" pilot, 3/8" intermediate, 1/2" final), drill the six 1/2" mounting holes. Place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer through each hole in the frame. 3. Raise the hitch into position and secure each bolt with a 1/2" flange nut. 4. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench. 5. Reposition the spare tire if necessary.
1. Using the largest hole in the hitch hanger as a guide, place it over the stock rivet on each side of the frame. Center the hitch and mark the six holes to be drilled. 2. Drill the six 1/2" holes, taking extra care around the gas tank. 3. Place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer in each hole. For the two forward holes on each side, use the fishwiring technique (wrap thin wire around the bolt and through the spacer) and feed bolts through the access hole in the crossmember. 4. Raise the hitch into position and secure each bolt with a 1/2" flange nut. 5. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
1. At the rear of the frame, find the 1/2" round holes. 2. In the first and third 1/2" round holes, place a 1/2" carriage bolt and spacer down through the frame. 3. Raise the hitch into position and secure with a 1/2" flange nut on each bolt, hand tighten only. 4. Center the hitch and use it as a template to drill the two remaining holes to 1/2" diameter. 5. Place a 1/2" x 2" carriage bolt and spacer in all mounting holes and secure with a 1/2" flange nut. 6. Tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
For Ford F-Series and Ford Bronco, tighten fasteners to 110 ft-lbs after raising the hitch into position. For Dodge full size, hand tighten the first two bolts only when initially securing the hitch, then after drilling the remaining holes and installing all bolts, tighten all fasteners to 110 ft-lbs with a torque wrench.
For Ford F-Series and Ford Bronco: After using the large/largest hole in the hitch hanger as a guide over the stock rivet on each side of the frame, center the hitch on the frame before marking the six holes to be drilled. For Dodge full size: After hand tightening the first two bolts, center the hitch and use it as a template to drill the two remaining holes.
For Ford Bronco: The bumper bolts can be loosened and the bumper raised to increase clearance for the hitch. Re-tighten the bolts after installation. For Dodge full size: Loosen the bumper brackets and reposition them upward, then re-tighten.
If the 9/16" slots in the hitch hangers line up with the small 1/4" holes in the vehicle frame on some Ford F-Series models, drill these holes out to 1/2" to accommodate the carriage bolts.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection of fastener tightness is recommended.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 14001 has a gross load capacity of 10,000 lbs trailer weight / 1,000 lbs tongue weight (weight carrying) or 12,000 lbs trailer weight / 1,200 lbs tongue weight (weight distribution), but you must follow the lower of either the hitch capacity or your vehicle manufacturer's limit.
CURT 14001 fits 1973-1997 Ford F-Series (except 73-79 crew cab), 1978-1997 Ford Bronco full size, and 1967-2002 Dodge full size. Check your vehicle year and model against these ranges.
The kit includes 6 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 2" long), 6 flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC), and 8 square hole spacers. All fasteners are grade 8 steel.
Yes, drilling is required. You must drill six 1/2" mounting holes. For Ford F-Series, use the step drilling method (1/8" pilot, 3/8" intermediate, 1/2" final). For Ford Bronco and Dodge, drilling procedures differ. No trimming is required.
All fasteners must be tightened to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. This applies to all six mounting bolts on all vehicle applications.
Weight carrying: 10,000 lbs trailer / 1,000 lbs tongue. Weight distribution: 12,000 lbs trailer / 1,200 lbs tongue. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. You must use the fishwiring technique for the two forward bolts on each side due to gas tank clearance. This involves wrapping thin wire around the bolt and feeding it through an access hole in the crossmember. Take extra care when drilling around the gas tank.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
CURT part 55350 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S). Your vehicle must have accessible taillight wiring harness connectors underneath the vehicle on both the driver and passenger sides behind the rear bumper. The connectors must be separable without damage to locking tabs. If your vehicle meets these criteria, the product should fit. Consult your vehicle's documentation or contact CURT if you are unsure whether your specific model is compatible.
CURT part 55350 is a custom wiring product for SUVs and Vans that connects to your vehicle's taillight wiring harness. It includes a 4-flat connector that routes to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk for trailer use. When not in use, the wiring can be rolled up and stored inside the trunk.
The taillight wiring harness connectors are located underneath the vehicle on both the driver and passenger sides behind the rear bumper. The connectors will be similar in appearance to the connectors on your new custom wiring product. You will need to access both sides to complete the installation.
1. Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors underneath the vehicle on both driver and passenger sides behind the rear bumper. 2. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side. 4. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 5. Route the custom wiring end with the green wire to the passenger side and repeat steps 1–4. 6. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk when in use. 7. When not in use, roll up and store the wiring in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. 8. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The custom wiring end with the yellow wire is inserted between the separated taillight connectors on the driver side of the vehicle. This connects the product to the driver side taillight wiring harness.
The custom wiring end with the green wire is routed to the passenger side of the vehicle and inserted between the separated taillight connectors on the passenger side. This connects the product to the passenger side taillight wiring harness.
The 4-flat connector is the main connection point for the trailer. When in use, it should be routed to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk for connection to a trailer. When not in use, it should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk.
CURT 55350 includes cable ties for securing loose wires. The manual does not specify the quantity of cable ties provided.
The manual states that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required, but does not specify which tools are needed. The installation is rated as 'Easy' difficulty level. Contact CURT or consult your vehicle's service manual for specific tool recommendations.
Yes. When separating the taillight connectors from the taillight housing in Step 1, you must take care not to damage the locking tabs. Damaged locking tabs may prevent proper connection and could affect product function.
The connectors are fully inserted when the locking tabs are in place. Ensure both the driver side (yellow wire) and passenger side (green wire) connectors are fully seated with their locking tabs engaged.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and wiring and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent tangling or damage.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. This will verify that the wiring connections are correct and the product is functioning as intended.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the wiring regularly, especially if the product is used frequently or stored for extended periods.
The manual does not specify the product rating or towing capacity. However, it warns: do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Contact CURT or consult your vehicle's documentation for specific capacity information.
CURT 55350 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S). Your vehicle must have accessible taillight wiring connectors underneath behind the rear bumper on both sides that can be separated without damaging the locking tabs.
No drilling is required. CURT 55350 connects directly to your vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness connectors underneath the vehicle behind the rear bumper.
The manual does not specify required tools but notes that proper tools will improve installation quality. The installation is rated as 'Easy' difficulty. Contact CURT for specific tool recommendations.
No. You must separate the taillight wiring harness connectors from the taillight housing to insert the custom wiring ends. Take care not to damage the locking tabs during separation.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. This verifies the wiring connections are correct and the product is functioning properly.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The manual does not specify the product rating; contact CURT for capacity details.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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