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1978 - 1996 Ford Bronco
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 525 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LBS |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1978 - 1996 | Ford Bronco | — |
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 13474 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, year, cab style, bed length or drivetrain. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
Required tools are: 7mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/4" socket, socket extension (6"), ratchet, torque wrench, fishwire (1/2"), and rotary tool. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 6 carriage bolts (1/2"-13 x 1-1/2", grade 8), 6 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"-13), 6 spacers (1/4" x 1" x 2-1/2"), and 6 fishwires (1/2").
Installation requires: partial removal and trimming of the underbody panel, trimming of the rear bumper fascia, and temporary lowering of the exhaust. The exhaust is lowered by removing the rubber isolator from the middle of the vehicle and temporarily removing it rearward; most exhaust hangers require a 10mm socket to remove. The exhaust must be supported to prevent damage and is reinstalled after hitch mounting.
Yes. The rear bumper fascia is trimmed using a trim diagram provided in the manual (Step 3). This is a permanent modification. The four screws holding the bumper fascia are removed at the start (7mm socket) and reinstalled after hitch mounting.
The fishwire is used to guide the carriage bolt and spacer through the frame rail mounting holes without losing them inside the frame. Thread the coil end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole in the frame rail. Pass the coil through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. The fishwires remain attached while raising the hitch into position and are removed before final tightening.
1. Remove four screws from the bottom of the rear bumper fascia using a 7mm socket. 2. Lower the exhaust by removing the rubber isolator from the middle and temporarily removing it rearward (10mm socket for hangers); support the exhaust. 3. Use fishwire to thread carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail holes. 4. Trim the rear bumper fascia. 5. Raise the hitch into position, feeding fishwires through the mounting holes. 6. Remove fishwires and loosely secure with serrated-flange nuts. 7. Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. 8. Reinstall exhaust hangers and the four bumper screws.
Torque all 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening. Refer to the specified torque specifications to help prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust to prevent damage when it is lowered. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval; contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended maintenance schedules.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact CURT at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your make, model and year.
You need: 7mm, 10mm, and 3/4" sockets, a 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, 1/2" fishwire, and rotary tool. Safety glasses are required.
The manual does not mention drilling. Installation requires trimming the rear bumper fascia and partial removal of the underbody panel, and temporary lowering of the exhaust.
Yes. The rear bumper fascia is permanently trimmed. The underbody panel is partially removed and trimmed. The exhaust is temporarily lowered during installation but is reinstalled afterward.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 3,500 lbs; tongue weight capacity is 525 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
The Curt 56462 is a powered converter wiring harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts a vehicle's factory taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with standard lighting. The system works with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only.
The Curt 56462 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models or years. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm it has a 12-volt negative ground system, or contact the vehicle manufacturer. The battery location may differ depending on your vehicle.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, electrical tape, and a fish wire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string). The manual rates installation difficulty as Easy.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with yellow, green, white and black wires, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties for securing wires, a ground screw, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Open the hatch. Between the taillight and the weather seal, there is a rubber and plastic taillight trim. Use your fingers or a panel trim removal tool to remove this straight back. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two nuts securing the taillight. Pull the taillight straight back; you may need a panel trim removal tool to loosen the alignment tabs. Locate the taillight wiring connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat on the other side.
Fish wire is a tool used to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Use a fish wire to pull the harness with the yellow wire up between the body of the vehicle and the bumper cover on the driver side. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat the process on the passenger side with the green wire, routing it along the rear bumper to the passenger side taillight opening.
Locate a flat spot under the vehicle on the driver side and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and flat to ensure the tape adheres properly.
Not necessarily. Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you need to drill a hole for the ground screw, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the 12-gauge power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire from being damaged and reduces the risk of electrical shorts or fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 15-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left and right turn): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The power wire must be 12-gauge or larger. Route the 12-gauge wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Yellow wire: Left turn signal. Green wire: Right turn signal. Red wire: Brake signal. Brown wire: Taillight/running lights. Black wire: Power (positive battery connection). White wire: Ground (negative connection to vehicle chassis).
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Connect the ring terminal of the power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Install the 15-amp fuse in the fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the provided ground screw. Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. This ensures proper brake signal operation in a two-wire trailer lighting configuration.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32-inch ground hole, as there may be wiring, fuel lines, or other components behind the surface.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) are working properly before towing.
After all wiring is complete and tested: reinstall all items removed during installation (taillight trim, taillights, and any panels); reconnect the negative battery terminal; and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the trailer connector.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat connector and all wiring regularly, especially before towing. Keep the connector covered with the provided dust cover when not in use to prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56462 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system in your owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it only after all wiring is complete and the 15-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling is not required if you can use an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame for the ground connection. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the battery to the converter.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Ensure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before pulling. If it remains stuck, carefully reverse the process and try a different route or angle.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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