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1987 - 1989 Dodge Raider
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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 7-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S6 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 - 1989 | Dodge Raider | — |
The 87-89 Dodge Raider 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW710 (Part #HBCW710) fits 1987-1989 Dodge Raider models. The 1989 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 87-89 Dodge Raider 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW710 (Part #HBCW710) fits the following vehicles: 1987-1989 Dodge Raider. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 87-89 Dodge Raider 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW710 (Part #HBCW710) is designed to fit the 1987-1989 Dodge Raider.
The 87-89 Dodge Raider 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW710 (Part #HBCW710) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 6,000 lbs with a tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs. For weight distribution use, the capacity is 10,000 lbs GTW with 1,000 lbs tongue weight (WDTW).
No. The installation requires the use of fishwire to install hardware through the frame rails. No drilling is required.
You will need a ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" socket, and 1/2" hex bit socket. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft and all 3/4" hardware to 250 lb-ft.
Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The kit includes 2 carriage bolts (1/2"-13 x 1-1/2", grade 8), 2 square-hole spacers (1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3"), 2 serrated-flange nuts (1/2"-13), 2 fishwire tools (1/2" x 30"), and 1 flat-head socket bolt (3/4"-10 x 3-1/4", grade 8). A black circle sticker is also provided to mark the top of the 3/4" bolt after installation if desired.
Remove the existing trailer ball hole cap from the center of the bumper and return it to the vehicle owner. Then raise the trailer hitch into position.
Insert the coiled end of the fishwire tool through the hitch mounting hole in the vehicle frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the square-hole spacer and thread the 1/2" carriage bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. The fishwire guides the hitch during mounting and prevents loss of the bolt or spacer inside the frame rail.
Use fishwire (#4) to thread 1/2" carriage bolts (#1) and square-hole spacers (#2) through the end of the bumper support tube and into each mounting hole of the hitch, following the fishwire technique described in the manual.
Secure the trailer hitch to the bumper support with 1/2" serrated-flange nuts (#3). Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft and all 3/4" hardware to 250 lb-ft.
The 3/4"-10 x 3-1/4" flat-head socket bolt (#5) is installed through the bumper and bumper support into the hitch to raise and secure the trailer hitch into position. After installation, a black circle sticker may be applied to the top of this bolt if desired.
Torque all 1/2" hardware, including the carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts, to 110 lb-ft.
Torque the 3/4" flat-head socket bolt to 250 lb-ft.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product.
Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. For information on safely towing your trailer, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify a frequency interval.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Easy. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 55381 fits Dodge Ram 1500, 2500, and 3500 models equipped with a factory 7-way connector. If your vehicle has the factory 7-way connector, this harness is compatible. Vehicles without the factory 7-way connector are not supported by this product.
Yes, part 55381 is compatible with Jeep Grand Cherokee models that have a factory 7-way connector. The harness is designed to work with the factory 7-way connector on this vehicle.
Yes, part 55381 fits Dodge Sprinter 2500 and 3500 models, as well as Freightliner Sprinter 2500 and 3500 models, provided they have a factory 7-way connector.
Yes. The 55381 custom wiring harness is designed to work only with vehicles equipped with a factory 7-way connector. The harness is inserted between the factory 7-way connector and the vehicle wiring harness. Vehicles without a factory 7-way connector cannot use this product.
The 55381 is a custom wiring harness that connects between your vehicle's factory 7-way connector and the vehicle wiring harness. It allows you to use aftermarket trailers and towing equipment with your vehicle's existing electrical system.
The manual does not specify any special tools required. The installation involves locating the factory 7-way connector under the driver side bumper, removing mounting screws or bolts, separating connectors by pressing a red locking tab, and reinstalling components. Standard hand tools for removing fasteners should be sufficient.
The factory 7-way connector is located under the bumper on the driver side of the vehicle, near the taillight wiring harness. The exact location varies by vehicle type: on SUVs, vans and pickup trucks, look behind the driver side taillight housing (location S1 for SUVs/vans, T1 for pickup trucks).
Carefully press the red locking tab on the connector sideways and pull the connectors apart. Take care not to damage the locking tabs during this process. Once separated, ensure the mating surfaces of both connectors are free of dirt and clean if necessary before proceeding.
Insert the custom wiring harness between the separated factory 7-way connector and vehicle wiring harness. Make sure both connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Push the red locking tabs back to their original position to secure the connection.
Reinstall all items you removed during installation. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connectors.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface. However, the standard installation of the 55381 does not require drilling—it is a connector-based installation.
Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
The 55381 fits Chrysler Aspen and Pacifica, Dodge Dakota, Durango, Ram 1500/2500/3500, Ram vans, and Sprinter vans, Freightliner Sprinter vans, Jeep Commander, Grand Cherokee, and Liberty, and Mitsubishi Raider—all with factory 7-way connectors. Check your vehicle's documentation to confirm it has a factory 7-way connector.
No. The 55381 is a connector-based installation that requires no drilling, cutting, or permanent modifications. It connects between your factory 7-way connector and vehicle wiring harness.
Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause overheating and fire. Check your vehicle owner's manual for the tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all installation steps have been completed.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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