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1989 - 1995 Mazda MPV
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1989 - 1995 | Mazda MPV | — |
Yes, the 89-95 Mazda MPV 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1814 (Part #HBCW1814) is designed to fit the 1989-1995 Mazda MPV.
The 89-95 Mazda MPV 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1814 (Part #HBCW1814) fits the following vehicles: 1989-1995 Mazda MPV. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 89-95 Mazda MPV 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1814 (Part #HBCW1814) fits 1989-1995 Mazda MPV models. The 1995 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 89-95 Mazda MPV 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1814 (Part #HBCW1814) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11435 is designed for 2016-current Mazda MX-5 Miata Convertible models. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver designed specifically for this vehicle.
CURT 11435 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball).
CURT 11435 has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Required tools are: 10mm socket, 11/16" socket, 7/16" socket, 3" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, die grinder, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve the quality of installation and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Installation is rated as moderate to challenging difficulty. The installation requires lowering the exhaust, enlarging mounting holes, fishwiring spacers and bolts through frame rails, and raising the hitch into position.
Yes. You must enlarge the rear mounting holes on both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle to allow CM-SP2 spacers and 7/16" carriage bolts to enter into the frame rails. A die grinder is required for this task.
Yes. The exhaust must be lowered by detaching 5 exhaust hangers: 4 hangers located on the muffler and 1 hanger located forward of the muffler. The exhaust is raised back into position and all hangers are reattached after the hitch is secured.
Installation involves 10 steps: (1) lower exhaust by detaching 5 hangers, (2) remove plastic fascia tab supports using 10mm socket, (3) enlarge rear mounting holes on both sides, (4) fishwire CM-SP2 spacers and 7/16" carriage bolts through enlarged holes and out forward mounting holes, (5) reverse fishwire spacers and bolts into enlarged holes, (6) raise hitch into position and secure with 7/16" hex flange nuts, (7) attach 11435-FT brackets to hitch side plates using 1/4" carriage bolts and nylock nuts, (8) attach fascia tabs to brackets using existing M6 screws, (9) torque all hardware to specification, (10) raise exhaust and reattach hangers.
Fishwiring is a technique used to route CM-SP2 spacers and 7/16" carriage bolts through enlarged rear mounting holes and out through forward mounting holes in the frame rails. The hardware is then reversed back into the enlarged holes. This allows the hardware to be properly positioned within the frame rail structure. Seven-sixteenths inch fishwire is included in the parts kit for this purpose.
The plastic fascia tab supports that attach the fascia tab to the bottom of the frame rails on both driver and passenger corners are removed using a 10mm socket. Both supports and 2 support screws are returned to the vehicle owner. The remaining 2 support screws are retained for reinstallation with the new 11435-FT brackets.
Torque specifications are: 7/16" hardware to 60 lb-ft, 1/4" hardware to 122 in-lb, and M6 hardware to 7 lb-ft. These torque values must be applied after the hitch is raised into position and all brackets and fascia tabs are attached.
The spacers are CM-SP2 square hole spacers measuring .250 x .88 x 2.25". Four spacers are included in the kit and are fishwired through the enlarged mounting holes and into the frame rails.
The kit includes: 2 fascia tabs (11435-FT), 2 carriage bolts (10-10509), 2 nylock hex nuts (20-00148), 4 bolts 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/2 grade 8 (10-10282), 4 serrated flange nuts 7/16-14 UNC grade 8 (20-00103), 4 square hole spacers CM-SP2, and 4 pieces of 7/16" fishwire.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection is important for safe operation and maintaining the warranty.
You should periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact inspection interval, but regular checks are recommended for safe towing operation.
Yes, CURT 11435 is designed specifically for 2016-current Mazda MX-5 Miata Convertible models.
10mm, 11/16", and 7/16" sockets, 3" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, die grinder, and safety glasses.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning. Contact an authorized CURT installer if hesitant (877-287-8634).
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56300 is designed for Mazda CX-3, Mazda 6, and Mazda MX-5 models. Installation procedures vary slightly by model: CX-3 and Mazda 6 require removal of floor coverings and cargo hold-downs from the trunk, while MX-5 requires removal of floor coverings and rear trunk panel. Consult the model-specific steps in the installation manual for your vehicle.
The Curt 56300 is a trailer wiring harness with a powered converter module. It connects your vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with integrated lighting. The converter processes your vehicle's turn signal, brake, and taillight circuits to power the trailer lights.
Yes. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. If your vehicle uses a different electrical system configuration, this product is not compatible.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10mm socket, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, flathead screwdriver, and wire stripper. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Yes. You must locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint before securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if an existing screw with nut is not available at the grounding point. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint before installing the provided screw with the white ground wire ring terminal.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse holder should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits (turn signals): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. For additional information, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routing from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
The harness wire colors are: Green (right turn signal), Red (brake), Yellow (left turn signal), and Brown (taillight). The custom wiring harness has a yellow wire end for the driver side and a green wire end for the passenger side. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal, and the white ground wire connects to the vehicle body.
Mount the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. The converter should be positioned after the custom wiring harness is inserted between the separated taillight connectors.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms all circuits are working properly before regular use.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
Before drilling to create the ground wire pilot hole, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area where you drill must be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 2. Open trunk and remove floor coverings to expose spare tire. 3. Remove push fasteners from rear scuff panel (2 on CX-3, 4 on Mazda 6) and remove the panel. 4. Remove push fasteners from sidewall covering and cargo hold-downs (CX-3 uses 10mm socket). 5. Pull back felt liner to locate taillight wiring harness connectors. 6. Separate connectors and insert custom harness with yellow wire between them. 7. Mount converter box with double-sided tape. 8. Secure white ground wire to frame with ring terminal and provided screw (drill 3/32" hole if needed). 9. Repeat steps 4-6 on passenger side with green wire harness end. 10. Route black power wire to battery, secure with cable ties, install fuse, reconnect battery, and reinstall removed items.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 2. Open trunk and use panel trim removal tool to remove four push fasteners securing floor coverings, exposing the floorboard. 3. Use panel trim removal tool to remove four push fasteners securing rear trunk panel; remove panel toward front of vehicle and straight up. 4. Remove push fastener from sidewall covering on driver side. 5. Pull back felt liner to locate taillight wiring harness connectors. 6. Separate connectors and insert custom harness with yellow wire between them. 7. Mount converter box with double-sided tape. 8. Secure white ground wire to frame with ring terminal and provided screw (drill 3/32" hole if needed). 9. Repeat steps 4-6 on passenger side with green wire harness end. 10. Route black power wire to battery, secure with cable ties, install fuse, reconnect battery, and reinstall removed items.
Pull back the felt liner to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire (driver side) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. The wire must be 12 GA or larger. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Connect the ring terminal to the vehicle battery positive terminal. Install the fuse holder with a 10-amp maximum fuse after all other steps are complete.
The Curt 56300 is designed for Mazda CX-3, Mazda 6, and Mazda MX-5 only. Installation steps vary by model.
You need: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10mm socket, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, flathead screwdriver, and wire stripper.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this can cause overheating and fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the battery to the converter.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, verify the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to prevent corrosion.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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