Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
1999 - 2001 Chrysler LHS
Confirmed to Fit
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
On Sale Today
Original price was $952.60. Current price is $812.77.You save $139.83 (15%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
FREE ShippingFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Thu, Sep 17 - Sun, Sep 20
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 - 2001 | Chrysler LHS | — |
Yes, CURT part number 12180 is designed for Chrysler Pacifica models from 2017 to present. It is a weight-carrying receiver hitch with a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight.
The CURT 12180 has a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The CURT 12180 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) or #45572 (2" ball).
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/4" socket, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, die grinder, and safety glasses.
Yes, the underbody panel must be removed. You will locate and remove 5 screws with an 8mm socket, 7 nuts with a 10mm socket, 2 bolts with a 10mm socket, and 2 plastic screws with a screwdriver. If no underbody panel is present, skip this step and proceed to lowering the exhaust.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the underbody panel to a 0.5" x 10" slot using aviation shears. You must also trim the heat shield to a 5" x 13" section using aviation shears. On hybrid models only, you must enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder.
Yes, the exhaust must be lowered by removing 2 rubber isolators before installation. The manual references a Rubber Isolator Removal Diagram for this procedure.
Yes, the heat shield must be temporarily removed. You will remove 2 plastic nuts with a 10mm socket, remove the heat shield, mark and trim a 5" x 13" section with aviation shears, then reinstall with 1 nut using a 10mm socket. If no underbody panel is present, remove 4 plastic nuts instead, trim the panel, and reinstall with 3 plastic nuts.
Yes. On hybrid models only, you must temporarily remove the emissions canister on the driver side frame rail using a 10mm socket to remove 2 bolts, then reinstall using provided M6 hardware. You must also enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder as shown in the Hole Enlargement Diagram.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. This is the final torque value applied after the hitch is raised into position and all fasteners are loosely fastened.
The kit includes: 5 bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 1-1/2", grade 8, part 10-10287), 5 square hole spacers 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50" (CM-SP10), 5 washers 1/2" (30-00149), 5 pieces of 1/2" fishwire, 1 tap bolt (10-10513), 1 hex bolt 1/4-20 x 1.00 (10-10424), 1 hex nut (20-00192), and 5 hex nuts 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 (20-00171).
Fishwire is used to thread carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes before the hitch is raised into position. The fishwires help align the bolts with the hitch holes, making installation easier. After alignment, the fishwires are removed and replaced with hex nuts.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this product must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This is a critical ongoing maintenance requirement.
If an electrical ground is present on the driver side frame rail, it must be relocated using the provided 1/4" hardware. Ensure the area is free of rust, dirt, and paint before reinstalling.
Raise the hitch into position starting with the passenger side. Run the fishwires through the holes on the hitch to help align bolts with hitch holes. Remove the fishwires and loosely fasten the hex nuts before final torquing.
Reinstall the underbody panel as the final step, after torquing all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Follow steps 1 and 2 in reverse order to reinstall.
Yes, the CURT 12180 is designed for Chrysler Pacifica models 2017-present with a 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight capacity.
You need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 8mm/10mm/3/4" sockets, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, die grinder, and safety glasses.
Yes. You must trim the underbody panel (0.5" x 10" slot) and heat shield (5" x 13" section) with aviation shears. On hybrid models, you must enlarge frame rail holes using a die grinder.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs as the final step after the hitch is positioned and fasteners are loosely fastened.
The CURT 12180 has a 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight capacity. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. You must lower the exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators and temporarily remove the heat shield (which is then trimmed and reinstalled).
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56492 is a wiring converter for SUVs and vans that converts the vehicle's taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system for towing.
The Curt 56492 is designed for SUVs and vans with wiring locations S1 (behind driver side taillight) and S2 (behind passenger side taillight). Compatibility may vary by specific vehicle model and year. Check with the manufacturer or a fitment database to confirm your vehicle is supported.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on positive ground vehicles.
Required tools are: ratchet, fishwire (or equivalent such as stiff wire, cut wire hanger, rope or string), socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-27, wire cutter, and panel trim removal tool.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with green and yellow wire ends, black converter box, white ground wire with ring terminal, provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape, cable ties, 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. The 12-gauge power wire and butt connectors are shown in the powered converter lead diagram.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Open the vehicle's rear hatch. Locate and remove two taillight fasteners on each side. Pull each taillight straight rearward. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillights aside.
Fishwiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert the fishwire (stiff wire, cut wire hanger, rope or string) through the blind hole until it protrudes on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fishwire and pull it back through. If the wire gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it around or twist it to loosen it. This technique routes the custom wiring harness behind the rear bumper and out through the opening below the taillight.
On the passenger side, use fishwire to route the custom wiring harness with the green wire up behind the rear bumper and out through the opening below the taillight. Insert the harness end with the green wire between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the driver side using the harness end with the yellow wire.
Mount the black converter box on the driver side on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape and cable ties to secure it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter on the driver side, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Refer to the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet on page 5 for detailed routing guidance.
Install the 10-amp fuse in the fuse holder only after all other installation steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Do not exceed this rating, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Drilling may be required only if a suitable grounding point does not already exist on the vehicle frame. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Green wire: Right turn signal. Yellow wire: Left turn signal. Red wire: Brake signal. Brown wire: Taillight/running light. White wire: Ground. Black wire: 12-volt positive power from battery.
The 4-flat connector is the trailer connector that connects to the converter. When in use, route it to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Route the 12-gauge power wire to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
The Curt 56492 is designed for SUVs and vans with wiring locations behind the driver and passenger side taillights. Confirm your specific vehicle model and year are supported before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, fishwire (or stiff wire), socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-27, wire cutter, and panel trim removal tool.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the 10-amp fuse is installed.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Green = right turn, Yellow = left turn, Red = brake, Brown = taillight, White = ground, Black = 12V power.
No. The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems.
No reviews have been added for this product.