Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper 88395Air LiftOriginal price was $887.99. Current price is $643.99.In Stock
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LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE with internal jounce bumper to absorb shock for best ride comfort
Adjustable air spring kit for leaf springs
Rear
Safely run w/zero air pressure
LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE adjustable air spring kits feature all of the benefits of our heaviest rated air spring with the addition of an internal jounce bumper inside the spring for the ultimate in ride comfort. An Air Lift exclusive product. Fits vehicles with in-bed hitches. Tow and haul the heaviest loads with safety and comfort with LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE. Works with vehicle's leaf springs to provide up to 5,000 lbs. of rear load leveling capacity and keeps the vehicle riding stable, level and comfortable whether loaded or unloaded. Fully adjustable from 5 to 100 PSI. The closed-cell urethane foam jounce bumper inside the ULTIMATE air springs provide a cushion of air that absorbs shock, eliminates harsh jarring on rough roads and protects vehicles carrying heavy loads. LoadLifter 5000 ULTIMATE air springs are maintenance free. Safely run with zero air pressure because of the internal jounce bumper. Replaces factory jounce bumper that is sometimes removed when adding air springs. Requires no drilling into frame. Includes industry-exclusive 60 Day No Questions Money Back Guarantee. Includes the most comprehensive Lifetime Warranty in the industry---covers all kit contents including brackets, fittings and air line. Air springs are built like a tire and are reinforced by durable, 2-ply fabric for maximum strength. Exclusive upper and lower roll plates included. Protect the springs from sharp edges, such as brackets or the frame. The kit includes 2 air springs, brackets, air lines, Schrader valve and all of the hardware needed for installation. Includes fully illustrated instruction manual. Add an Air Lift on-board air compressor system to inflate and deflate air springs with the touch of a button from inside or outside of the vehicle.
Air Lift Company has developed dependable air spring suspension products since our inception in 1949. Our original product, a rubber air spring inserted into a car’s factory coil spring, was created and patented in 1950. We’ve come a long way since 1949 and are proud to be a dedicated suspension specialist company.
Today, Air Lift load support products are sold worldwide and are engineered to fit over 540 vehicles. Our extensive product line offers air helper springs for trucks, RVs, SUVs, CUVs, and vans, as well as the most technologically advanced on-board air compressor systems for on-the-go air spring control.
Air Lift leads the industry in no-drill applications – kits that bolt onto your vehicle’s frame, speeding the installation process. Our teams work constantly to bring innovative products to you and upgrade existing products with the latest technology.
All of our efforts are spent ensuring your safety and comfort by designing, engineering, and manufacturing the highest quality suspension products. We are a family-owned business based in Lansing, Michigan, and make your family and cargo’s safety our top priority.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Limited Lifetime
2 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2015 | Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD | Cab and Chassis |
| 2011 - 2015 | GMC Sierra 3500 HD | Cab and Chassis |
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is recommended for most 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs. Verify your vehicle matches this description before purchasing. The kit does not fit vehicles with coil springs. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 to confirm fitment for your specific year and model.
No. The air springs do not alter the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), payload, or any other weight limits. You must not exceed your vehicle's GVWR regardless of the air spring system. Exceeding GVWR is dangerous and voids the Air Lift warranty.
Required tools include: hoist or floor jacks, 2 safety stands, safety glasses, 2 vise grips, 4-inch grinder or metal cutting tool, torque wrench, open-end combo wrenches, ratchet, metric and standard sockets, 7/32-inch Allen wrench, 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch drill bits, heavy-duty drill, hose cutter or sharp knife, air compressor, spray bottle with dish soap/water solution, and black paint or undercoating.
Yes. The stock jounce bumpers must be removed from under the frame rails on both sides. Grind the welds off the jounce bumper cups, remove and discard the bumpers, then grind the remaining welds flush with the frame flange and spray with black paint or undercoating.
Yes. You must drill two 3/8-inch holes in each frame rail to attach the upper brackets. Before drilling, check the back-side of the frame for brake lines, gas lines, and electrical lines and temporarily relocate any obstacles. You must also drill 5/16-inch holes for the inflation valves at your chosen location (wheel well, license plate recess, gas cap door, or through license plate).
Upper bracket flat head screws (G): 20 lb.-ft. maximum. Lower bracket bolt (I): 20 lb.-ft. Lower bracket clamp bar bolts (K): 10 lb.-ft. Upper bracket flange bolts (L): 44 lb.-ft. Lower bracket bolt in assembly step: 20 lb.-ft. All other fasteners should be tightened securely but specific torque values are not provided in the manual.
Minimum recommended pressure is 5 PSI; maximum is 100 PSI. For unloaded vehicles, the system can safely run at zero PSI. For loaded vehicles (heavy bed load, trailer, or both), maintain at least 25 PSI. The springs support approximately 40 pounds of load (combined on both springs) per 1 PSI of pressure. Adjust pressure to maintain normal ride height and stability.
Maintain at least 6 inches of clearance between air lines and the exhaust system. Use zip ties to secure the air line to fixed points along the chassis, but do not pinch the line. Leave at least 2 inches of slack to allow for suspension movement.
Perform clearance test at 75–90 PSI (check tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers, brake cables for 1/2-inch minimum clearance); leak test at 75–90 PSI; heat test (6-inch minimum clearance from heat sources); fastener torque recheck; 10-mile road test; 24-hour overnight leak-down test (acceptable loss is 2–4 PSI; more than 5 PSI indicates a leak); and 30-day or 500-mile recheck for rubbing, abrasion, and fastener tightness.
Check air pressure weekly. Also recheck after 24 hours of initial installation (2–4 PSI loss is normal; more than 5 PSI indicates a leak), after 30 days or 500 miles of operation, and periodically check fasteners for tightness and air springs for signs of rubbing.
The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is an adjustable air helper spring system designed for 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups and SUVs with leaf springs. It provides up to 5,000 pounds of load-leveling support with air adjustability from 5–100 PSI. The system uses reinforced, commercial-grade convolute bellows (rubber and cord construction similar to a tire) to help level the vehicle when carrying heavy loads and improve ride comfort and stability.
No. The LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate is designed only for vehicles with leaf springs. It is not compatible with coil spring suspensions.
The kit includes: 2 clamp bars (01531), 2 upper brackets (07043), 2 lower brackets (03063), 2 air springs (58496), 4 roll plates (11967), 2 90° swivel fittings (21837), 8 flat head screws 3/8–24 x 34 inches (17215), 1 frame clamp (10181), 2 hex bolts 3/8–16 x 3/4 inch (17101), 1 hex bolt 3/8–16 x 1 inch (17107), 4 carriage bolts 3/8–16 x 6 inches (17133), 4 hex flange bolts 3/8–16 x 1.5 inches (17159), 11 nylon lock nuts 3/8–16 (18435), 6 flat washers 3/8 inch (18444), 4 large flat washers 3/8 inch (18447), 8 flat washers 5/16 inch (18501), 1 air line assembly (20086), 6 tie straps (10466), 2 valve caps (21230), 2 rubber washers (21234), 2 star washers (18411), and 4 hex nuts 5/16 inch (21233).
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 for guidance on this step.
No. You must raise the vehicle and support it using jack stands or a drive-on hoist so that the axle can be dropped safely away from the frame. This is necessary to position the air spring assemblies between the axle and frame.
Yes. The rear tires and wheels must be removed before installation.
Yes, on the driver side. You must unbolt the fuel line holders and pull the fuel lines away from the frame rail to gain clearance to drill the two holes needed to install the upper bracket. After drilling and installing the bracket, reinstall the fuel line holders with four 5/16-inch washers stacked between the hangers and frame to provide extra clearance. Ensure the bolts do not rub on the fuel lines.
Before drilling, check the back-side of the frame for clearance issues with brake lines, gas lines, and electrical lines. Any obstacles must be temporarily relocated to clear the drilling area. On late-model vehicles, ABS lines with line holders may limit alignment; align as best you can with these models.
Use a 3/8-inch drill bit to drill the frame rails for the upper bracket attachment holes.
Use a 5/16-inch drill bit to install the inflation valves.
Yes. You must grind the welds off the jounce bumper cups that attach the jounce bumpers to the frame rails. After removing the jounce bumpers, grind down the remaining welds so they are flush with the frame flange, then spray with black paint or undercoating.
1. Set a roll plate over the top of the bellows. 2. Install the 90° swivel fitting into the top of the bellows, finger tight plus one and a half turns. 3. Set the upper bracket onto the bellows assembly and attach with two flat head screws, torqued to 20 lb.-ft. maximum. 4. Install a 3/8–16 x 3/4-inch bolt in the lower bracket with the head on the same side as the flanges, capped with a nylon lock nut, torqued to 20 lb.-ft. 5. Set a roll plate over the bottom of the air spring assembly and install the lower bracket with flanges on the same side as the upper bracket flange, attached with two flat head screws, torqued to 20 lb.-ft. maximum.
Push the lower bracket inboard so that the tabs on the outside of the lower brackets index under the jounce bumper strike plate (which is welded onto the axle). It may be necessary to bend the tabs on the bracket slightly if they do not line up properly to index under the strike plate.
Insert two 3/8-inch long carriage bolts (K) down through the square holes in the lower bracket and install the clamp bar (A) over them. Cap with two 3/8-inch flat washers (N) and two 3/8-inch nylon lock nuts (M). Tighten both evenly to 10 lb.-ft. Repeat for both sides.
Raise the axle or lower the frame and align the upper bracket on the frame rail so that the air spring is perpendicular to the upper and lower brackets. On late-model vehicles, ABS lines with line holders may limit this alignment; align as best you can with these models. Clamp the flange of the upper bracket to the frame with two sets of vise grips (forward and behind the axle), making sure the upper bracket is flat against the side of the frame rail.
Attach the upper bracket to the frame using two 3/8-inch flange bolts (L), two 3/8-inch large flat washers (O), and two 3/8-inch nylon lock nuts (M). Torque to 44 lb.-ft.
Insert the emergency brake cable (on the left/driver side above the axle) into the P-clamp (H) and install the P-clamp onto the front inside corner hole of the upper bracket using one 3/8-inch bolt (J), one 3/8-inch flat washer (N), and one 3/8-inch nylon lock nut (M).
Choose a convenient location for mounting the inflation valves. Popular locations are: the wheel well flanges, the license plate recess in the bumper, under the gas cap access door, or through the license plate. Whatever location you choose, make sure there is enough clearance around the inflation valves for an air chuck.
Cut the air line assembly in two equal lengths. Use a sharp knife or hose cutter and make clean, square cuts. Do not use scissors or wire cutters, as these tools may deform the air line and cause leaks. Do not cut the lines at an angle. Inspect the hose for lengthwise scratches before installation; contact Air Lift customer service at (800) 248-0892 if the air line is damaged.
After cutting the hose to length on the passenger side, slide the hose heat shield over the air line before inserting it into the fitting. Using a tie strap, tie it to the front inside hole in the upper bracket.
Leave enough of the inflation valve in front of the nut to extend through the hole and have room for the rubber washer, flat washer, and 5/16-inch nut and cap. There should be approximately 1/2 inch of valve exposed after installation to easily apply a pressure gauge or an air chuck.
Push the inflation valve through the hole and use a rubber washer, flat washer, and another 5/16-inch nut to secure it in place. Tighten the nuts to secure the assembly.
Route the air line along the frame to the fitting on the air spring. Keep at least 6 inches of clearance between the air line and the exhaust system. Avoid sharp bends and edges. Use zip ties to secure the air line to fixed points along the chassis. Be sure the tie straps are tight but do not pinch the air line. Leave at least 2 inches of slack to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line.
Cut off the air line, leaving approximately 12 inches of extra air line. Make a clean square cut to prevent leaks. Insert the air line into the air fitting (a push-to-connect fitting). Wiggle the hose back and forth while inserting to make sure the hose bottoms out in the fitting to obtain a good seal.
Bend the heat shield tabs to provide a dead air space between the exhaust pipe and heat shield. Attach the heat shield to the exhaust pipe using the clamps. Bend the heat shield for maximum clearance to the air spring. Some vehicles have large resonators in this area; it may be necessary to double up on the clamps to fit these models.
Do not bend the 1/4-inch hose at a radius of less than 1 inch or bend the 3/8-inch hose at a radius of less than 1.5 inches. Do not put side load pressure on the fitting. The hose should be straight beyond the fitting for 1 inch before bending.
Compressed air can cause injury and damage to the vehicle and parts if it is not handled properly. Do not try to inflate the air springs until they have been properly secured to the vehicle.
The maximum air pressure is 100 PSI. Never inflate beyond 100 PSI. Although the air springs are rated at a maximum inflation pressure of 100 PSI, the air pressure actually needed is dependent on load and GVWR.
The recommended minimum air pressure is 5 PSI. However, the system can safely be run at zero air pressure unladen (no load). For loaded vehicles (heavy bed load, trailer, or both), maintain at least 25 PSI.
A 'loaded vehicle' refers to a vehicle with a heavy bed load, a trailer, or both. Loaded vehicles require at least 25 PSI of air pressure in the springs.
The springs in the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate kit support approximately 40 pounds of load (combined on both springs) for each 1 PSI of pressure.
The vehicle can be lifted on a hoist for short-term service work such as tire rotation or oil changes. However, if the vehicle will be on the hoist for a prolonged period of time, support the axle with jack stands to take the tension off the air springs. If you need to raise the vehicle by the frame, make sure the system is at minimum pressure (5 PSI) to reduce tension on the suspension and brake components. On-board leveling systems do not require deflation or disconnection.
Inflate the air spring to 30 PSI. Spray all connections and the inflation valves with a solution of 1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water. Spot leaks easily by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. After the test, deflate the springs to the minimum pressure required to restore the system to normal ride height (do not deflate below 5 PSI). Check the air pressure again after 24 hours; a 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 PSI.
Inflate the air springs to 75–90 PSI and make sure there is at least 1/2 inch of clearance from anything that might rub against each sleeve. Be sure to check the tire, brakes, frame, shock absorbers, and brake cables.
After the 10-mile road test, recheck for clearance, loose fasteners, and air leaks. Then perform an overnight leak-down test by rechecking air pressure after the vehicle has been used for 24 hours. If the pressure has dropped more than 5 PSI, there is a leak that must be fixed.
Recheck the air spring system after 30 days or 500 miles, whichever comes first. If any part shows signs of rubbing or abrasion, identify the source and move it if possible. If it is not possible to relocate the cause of the abrasion, the air spring may need to be remounted. Check all fasteners for tightness.
1. Check air pressure weekly. 2. Always maintain normal ride height; never inflate beyond 100 PSI. 3. If the system develops an air leak, use a soapy water solution to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating. 4. Periodically check the air spring system fasteners for tightness and check the air springs for any signs of rubbing; realign if necessary. 5. On occasion, give the air springs a hard spray with a garden hose to remove mud, sand, gravel, or other debris.
When increasing load, always adjust air pressure to maintain normal ride height. Increase or decrease pressure from the system as necessary to attain normal ride height for optimal ride and handling. Remember that loads carried behind the axle (including tongue loads) require more leveling force (pressure) than those carried directly over the axle. It may be necessary to maintain different pressures on each side of the vehicle; as much as a 50 PSI difference is not uncommon.
Always add air to springs in small quantities, checking the pressure frequently. Start with the vehicle level or slightly above. When in doubt, always add air.
If the air springs are properly installed and maintained, they can last indefinitely.
No. Air pressure can be adjusted with any type of compressor as long as it can produce sufficient pressure to service the springs. Even a bicycle tire pump can be used, but it requires a lot of work. An on-board air compressor system allows for hassle-free control of the air springs. Learn more about Air Lift control systems at www.airliftcompany.com/products/compressor-systems.
If there is a problem with the swivel fitting: (a) Check the air line connection by deflating the spring and removing the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1 inch off the end of the air line. Be sure the cut is clean and square. Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. (b) Check the threaded connection by tightening the swivel fitting another half turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible and then use a wrench for an additional two turns.
If there is a problem with the inflation valve: (a) Check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. (b) Check the air line by removing the air line from the barbed type fitting. Cut the air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use a pair of pliers or vise grips to pull/twist the air line off of the fitting. Do not cut off the air line completely as this will usually nick the barb and render the fitting useless.
If the system won't maintain pressure overnight, the cause is likely an improperly installed air line, an air line with holes or cracks, or a compromised fitting seal. Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water. Trim hose or re-seal fitting. Ensure lines are cut straight.
If a corner won't raise or an air leak develops, look for a kink or fold in the air line. Replace any air line that has been kinked.
If the vehicle has a rough or harsh ride, it may be due to either too much pressure or not enough. Try different pressures to determine the best ride comfort.
If the vehicle's headlights are shining into the trees or the vehicle is leaning to one side, it is not level. Raise the air pressure to correct either of these problems and level the vehicle.
If the vehicle rocks and rolls, adjust the air pressure to reduce movement. Stability issues include roll control, bounce, dive during braking, and sponginess. Tuning out these problems usually requires an increase in pressure.
If the front of the vehicle dives while braking, increase the pressure in the front air bags, if equipped.
If it is suspected that the air springs have bottomed out, increase the pressure.
Cause: Improperly installed air line, air line with holes or cracks, or compromised fitting seal. Solution: Leak test the air line connections, the threaded connection into the air spring, and all fittings in the control system. Check to make sure air lines are seated in connectors. Inspect fittings with soapy water. Trim hose or re-seal fitting. Ensure lines are cut straight.
Cause: Kink or fold in the air line. Solution: Look for a kink or fold in the air line and replace any air line that has been kinked.
A 2–4 PSI loss after initial installation is normal. If the loss is more than 5 PSI, retest for leaks using a soapy water solution (1/5 liquid dish soap and 4/5 water) on all connections and the inflation valves. If leaks are found at the swivel fitting, check the air line connection and trim 1 inch off the end with a clean, square cut, then reinsert. If the threaded connection leaks, tighten the swivel fitting another half turn or re-coat the threads with thread sealant and reinstall. If leaks are found at the inflation valve, check the valve core with a valve core tool or check the air line connection.
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