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B&W Trailer Hitches
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Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
1999 - 2009 Ford F-250
Confirmed to Fit
1999 - 2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
1999 - 2009 Ford F-350
Confirmed to Fit
1999 - 2010 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit
2008 - 2010 Ford F-450 Super Duty
Confirmed to Fit




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Equip your vehicle with this robust hitch to safely tow your gooseneck trailer. The removable ball can be stored upside down in the hitch when not in use, providing complete bed access. The square ball base is designed to stay put in the hitch.
The B&W Turnoverball under-bed gooseneck trailer hitch offers the best of both worlds. It provides a sturdy, reliable connection with your gooseneck trailer for towing, and when not in use, the ball can be stowed upside down in the hitch for full bed access and a clean look.
The durable steel hitch ball included with the Turnoverball system is secured in the hitch with a sturdy, 5/8" thick steel pin integrated into the end of the operating handle. To lock the ball in place, drop it into the hitch hole in your truck bed. Then rotate the handle in your driver's-side wheel well counterclockwise until the latch engages. When the latch is engaged, the spring-loaded pin on the end of the handle will be inserted all the way through the base of the hitch ball, forming a strong, solid connection for secure towing.
When you're done towing, remove the hitch ball by pulling the handle out as far as it will go and then rotating it clockwise until it unlatches. Flip the ball upside down and drop it back into the ball hole of the hitch. Then reengage the latch to secure the stowed ball in place.
The Turnoverball hitch ball is designed with a square base, unlike typical gooseneck balls with round bases. This design makes latching the ball in the hitch easier as the base won't rotate inside of the hitch, making pin alignment a breeze. The base of the ball also fits tightly within the ball hole during storage, preventing any dirt or grime buildup that could cause the ball to seize up in the hitch.
This hitch is custom designed for your vehicle. The included mounting brackets bolt to existing holes in your truck's frame. While some modification is required - you will need to cut a 4" diameter hole in your bed for the hitch ball and drill holes for the built-in safety chain loops - there is no need to weld onto or to drill into your frame.
Once you have the hitch brackets and body installed, set up the operating handle. This handle is designed to be accessed from the rear driver's-side wheel well. On the end of the handle is the heavy-duty steel pin that secures the hitch ball.
B&W makes it easy to tow just about anything. With the many adapters and accessories available, the Turnoverball can be made to work with almost any gooseneck trailer. Hitch balls are available that have a built-in rise, an offset, and even a different connection type. Add on the Companion fifth-wheel hitch - which attaches directly to the Turnoverball with no other parts required - and you can tow your fifth-wheel trailer.

B&W Trailer Hitches is an American manufacturer known for durable, innovative towing products, including gooseneck hitches, fifth-wheel hitches, receiver hitches, and ball mounts. Built in Kansas by employee-owners, B&W products are engineered for dependable performance, easy installation, and long-lasting quality.
B&W Trailer Hitches is an American manufacturer known for building innovative, dependable towing products designed to make hitching easier and towing more comfortable. The company began in 1987 in Humboldt, Kansas, when founders Roger Baker and Joe Works combined their fabrication experience to build custom truck beds and solve common problems faced by truck owners.
B&W changed the gooseneck hitch industry with the introduction of the Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch. Its under-bed mounting system and reversible hitch ball allowed truck owners to quickly store the ball beneath the bed, leaving a clean and unobstructed surface when the hitch was not in use. B&W later applied the same practical approach to the Companion Fifth Wheel Hitch, creating a removable fifth-wheel hitch engineered for a quiet, smooth, and secure towing experience.
Today, B&W manufactures gooseneck hitches, fifth-wheel hitches, receiver hitches, ball mounts, and towing accessories at its nearly 600,000-square-foot facility. The company is owned by approximately 500 employee-owners who remain committed to American manufacturing, trusted materials, skilled craftsmanship, and long-lasting product quality.
Whether you are towing a work trailer, livestock trailer, camper, or fifth wheel, B&W Trailer Hitches offers thoughtfully engineered towing equipment built to perform mile after mile.
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Call 888-634-94945 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1999 - 2009 | Ford F-250 | — |
| 1999 - 2010 | Ford F-250 Super Duty | — |
| 1999 - 2009 | Ford F-350 | — |
| 1999 - 2010 | Ford F-350 Super Duty | — |
| 2008 - 2010 | Ford F-450 Super Duty | — |
Yes, the 1999-2010 Ford F250 & F350 Trucks; 2008-2010 F450 with Factory Installed Bed B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1108 (Part #BQVLGNRK1108) is designed to fit the 1999-2009 Ford F-250.
The 1999-2010 Ford F250 & F350 Trucks; 2008-2010 F450 with Factory Installed Bed B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1108 (Part #BQVLGNRK1108) fits 1999-2009 Ford F-250 models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 1999-2010 Ford F250 & F350 Trucks; 2008-2010 F450 with Factory Installed Bed B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1108 (Part #BQVLGNRK1108) fits the following vehicles: 1999-2009 Ford F-250; 1999-2010 Ford F-250 Super Duty; 1999-2009 Ford F-350; 1999-2010 Ford F-350 Super Duty; 2008-2010 Ford F-450 Super Duty. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 1999-2010 Ford F250 & F350 Trucks; 2008-2010 F450 with Factory Installed Bed B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1108 (Part #BQVLGNRK1108) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The Model 1108R (part number 1108-1-R1021) fits 1999-2010 Ford 3/4 & 1 Ton Super Duty Long and Short Bed Trucks, and 2008-2010 F-450 trucks with factory-installed beds. The product is designed for vehicles in original, 'as manufactured' condition. If your truck has replacement parts or other modifications, compatibility is not guaranteed and you should inspect your vehicle before installation.
Yes, the Model 1108R is designed for both long bed and short bed (less than 8 feet) Ford Super Duty trucks. However, before installing this hitch on a short bed truck, you must check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all your trailers and the truck cab. This is a critical safety check that must be completed before installation begins.
The kit includes two boxes: the Center Box (GNRC800) containing the center section, 2-5/16" ball, latch pin handle, safety chain kit with 2 U-bolts, 4 conical springs, 4 lock nuts, and fasteners; and the Mounting Kit Box (GNRM1108) containing driver and passenger side plates, front and rear crossmembers, exhaust bracket, 2 side plate clamps, fuel line bracket, 2 standoff bolts, 2 pipe spacers, and various carriage bolts, cap screws, washers, and nuts in multiple sizes.
Yes. The manual explicitly states to remove the spare tire before installing the hitch. Additionally, on 2008 and newer trucks, B&W recommends removing the spare tire heat shield to avoid injury. The spare tire and heat shield are reinstalled after the hitch installation is complete (Step 14).
Measure from the tailgate end of the truck bed floor at 47 inches and mark the floor. Find the center point between the wheel wells. Where these marks intersect is the center point for the 4-inch hole. This location is critical to correct installation. If your truck has a spray-in bed liner, add the liner thickness to your measurement. If you have a drop-in plastic bed liner, you may saw through both, but it is more difficult to accurately locate the midpoint and ensure the liner does not move during cutting.
B&W recommends using a 4-inch hole saw. However, the hole can be cut by other means. After cutting, use a deburring tool or die grinder to carefully remove the burr from the underside of the bed around the hole.
Yes. Step 2 of the installation requires removal of the heat shield located above the rear axle under the truck bed.
On 2004 and older trucks, yes. The emergency brake cable located on the outside of the driver's side frame must be relocated. Knock the mounting stud out of the frame and discard it. A relocating bolt is furnished in the kit and will be installed later during Step 7. On 2005 and newer trucks, this step is not required.
On trucks equipped with a gasoline engine, fuel line bracket relocation may be necessary. If the oval hole in the driver's side frame just above the axle is partially blocked, you must relocate the bracket. The bracket may be held by a nut and stud on the outside of the frame or by a plastic retainer pushed through from the inside. Remove the nut or push the plastic retainer through so the bracket can be rotated 90 degrees. Install the relocation bracket supplied in the kit using a 5/16" carriage bolt and flange nut bolted to the inside of the frame. The factory fuel line bracket can then be reinstalled on the relocation bracket.
On 2005 and newer Ford Super Duty trucks equipped with a diesel engine, yes, the tail pipe must be lowered. On 2005-2007 models, remove the tail pipe bracket just behind the rear tire on the passenger side; it will be reattached later. On 2008 and newer models, the exhaust can be lowered at both the rear and front exhaust brackets if needed. Detailed instructions and diagrams for your model year are provided in Step 12.
Some models of trucks will allow the crossmembers to slide between the frame and bed without modification. If this is not possible, a small notch must be made in the flange on the driver's side. Locate the front truck bed crossmember in the wheel well, measure 1½ inches from the back of the crossmember, and cut a 7/8-inch wide by 3/8-inch tall notch at that center point. This measurement is important for proper installation.
Install the rear crossmember first. It has three notches and should be slid between the frame and bed on the driver's side, with the leg containing oval holes facing toward the cab. Slide it back until it is about 4 inches behind the 4-inch hole drilled in the bed. Then install the front crossmember in the same manner, except the leg with oval holes should face the rear of the truck. Slide it rearward just behind the shock bracket. When installed correctly, the two angle legs with holes should be facing each other.
Position a side plate clamp around the frame approximately 6½ inches in front of the slotted hole on the side of the frame. Slide the bottom of the side plate between the clamping strap and the frame. Guide the stud on the clamping strap through the hole in the top of the side plate and add a ½-inch lock washer and nut. Place a ½-inch bolt through the hole in the bottom of the clamping strap and side plate, and add a ½-inch lock washer and nut. Install a pipe spacer between the side plate and frame, place the ¾-inch bolt through the side plate, pipe spacer, and frame, then add a ¾-inch flat washer, lock washer, and nut. Repeat for the passenger side. Hand-tighten all hardware initially.
Raise the center section into position between the crossmembers from beneath the truck, with the latch pin release handle on the driver side. The round hitch receiver that protrudes from the top of the center section must fit through the 4-inch hole in the truck bed floor. An overhead lifting device (chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended to help with this step. Slide the angles against the center section and bolt together using six ½-inch × 1½-inch bolts with flat washers through the slots in the crossmember and through the holes in the center section, then add lock washers and nuts. Next bolt the side plates to the angle crossmembers using ½-inch × 1½-inch bolts through the side plate, through the angle, and add flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. Hand-tighten all hardware initially.
Tighten fasteners in this order: (1) center section to crossmember bolts to 80 ft-lbs; (2) ¾-inch side plate bolts to 120 ft-lbs; (3) bottom clamping strap bolts to side plate to 80 ft-lbs; (4) clamping strap studs to 60 ft-lbs; (5) side plate to angle bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Before tightening, ensure the assembled center section is square with the frame. If the emergency brake cable has been removed, place the bracket over the previously installed 5/16-inch bolt, replace the nut, and tighten.
Insert the latch pin release handle through the slot in the end of the center section on the driver's side. Align the handle eyelet with the square hole in the latch pin so the handle is in line with the latch pin. Secure the handle to the pin with the 5/16-inch × 3/4-inch carriage bolt and 5/16-inch locking flange nut. The included 5/16-inch cap screw can replace the carriage bolt if wrench access on the cab side is limited. Tighten the nut until secure, but do not over-tighten as this may deform the handle eyelet. The latch pin will not function properly if the handle is not installed correctly.
Drill four ½-inch holes through the truck bed floor from beneath the truck, through the two holes located on each side and closest to the round receiver tube in the center section. This will locate the safety chain U-bolt in the lowest point of the floor corrugation. Clean the burrs from around the holes in the top of the bed, then drop a U-bolt through each pair of holes. Place a spring and lock nut on each of the four legs. Tighten the nuts until flush with the bottom of the U-bolts.
Retract the latch pin by pulling the handle all the way out until it stops, then rotate it clockwise. Place the 2-5/16-inch ball in the hitch receiver. Engage the latch pin by rotating the handle counterclockwise. Be certain the latch pin passes through the holes in the 2-5/16-inch ball and fully engages through the hitch receiver. Remove and grease the square base of the 2-5/16-inch ball.
Do not invert the ball in the socket when carrying heavy loads on 2-wheel drive trucks. The ball may hit the top of the differential. Remove the ball from the socket before loading. A plug for the socket is available from B&W.
Most trucks have fuel lines, brake lines, and/or electrical wires located along the frame rails where the B&W Turnoverball™ hitch installs. Carefully examine the location of these components before installation. Be certain you will not damage fuel lines, brake lines, or electrical wires when positioning hitch components, drilling holes, tightening fasteners, and lifting and lowering the truck bed. The fuel tank vent, located on top of the gas tank, can be easily damaged during installation. Care must be taken when positioning the front crossmember and center section components.
The tow vehicle's towing capacities should under no circumstances be exceeded.
The Model 1108R is equipped with a 2-5/16-inch ball.
The Model 1108R fits 1999-2010 Ford 3/4 & 1 Ton Super Duty Long and Short Bed Trucks, and 2008-2010 F-450 trucks with factory-installed beds. Compatibility with modified vehicles is not guaranteed.
Yes. You must drill a 4-inch hole in the truck bed floor at 47 inches from the tailgate, centered between wheel wells. You also must drill four ½-inch holes for the safety chain U-bolts. A 4-inch hole saw is recommended for the bed hole.
Some trucks require a 7/8-inch wide by 3/8-inch tall notch cut in the driver-side bed flange. This is only necessary if the crossmembers cannot slide between the frame and bed without modification.
On 2005+ diesel-equipped Ford Super Duty trucks, yes. The tail pipe must be lowered. On 2005-2007 models, remove and reattach the tail pipe bracket. On 2008+ models, the exhaust can be lowered at the rear and/or front brackets as needed.
Center section to crossmember bolts: 80 ft-lbs. Side plate bolts (¾-inch): 120 ft-lbs. Clamping strap bolts: 80 ft-lbs. Clamping strap studs: 60 ft-lbs. Side plate to angle bolts: 80 ft-lbs.
An overhead lifting device such as a chain fall, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long is recommended to lift the center section into position. It should be disconnected before squaring the center section and torquing fasteners.
Do not invert the ball in the socket when carrying heavy loads on 2-wheel drive trucks, as the ball may hit the differential. Remove the ball before loading.
The latch pin will not function properly if the handle is not installed correctly. Verify that the latch pin release handle is inserted through the slot in the end of the center section on the driver's side, and that the handle eyelet is aligned with the square hole in the latch pin so the handle is in line with the latch pin. Ensure the handle is secured to the pin with the 5/16-inch × 3/4-inch carriage bolt and 5/16-inch locking flange nut, and that the nut is tightened until secure but not over-tightened, as over-tightening may deform the handle eyelet.
After installing the center section and bolting it to the crossmembers, check to ensure the assembled center section is square with the frame before proceeding with final torquing. If it is not square, loosen the hand-tightened bolts, reposition the center section to be square with the frame, and then proceed with the final torque specifications in Step 9.
Some models of trucks will allow the crossmembers to slide between the frame and bed without modification. If this is not possible, a small notch needs to be made in the flange on the driver's side of the truck. Locate the front truck bed crossmember in the wheel well, measure 1½ inches from the back of the crossmember, and cut a 7/8-inch wide by 3/8-inch tall notch at that center point. This measurement is important for proper installation.
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