B&W Trailer Hitches 2-5/16" Replacement Ball For Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Ball GNXA2000B&W Trailer Hitches$86.00In Stock
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Equip your vehicle with this robust hitch to safely tow your gooseneck trailer. The removable ball can be stored upside down in the hitch when not in use, providing complete bed access. The square ball base is designed to stay put in the hitch.
The B&W Turnoverball under-bed gooseneck trailer hitch offers the best of both worlds. It provides a sturdy, reliable connection with your gooseneck trailer for towing, and when not in use, the ball can be stowed upside down in the hitch for full bed access and a clean look.
The durable steel hitch ball included with the Turnoverball system is secured in the hitch with a sturdy, 5/8" thick steel pin integrated into the end of the operating handle. To lock the ball in place, drop it into the hitch hole in your truck bed. Then rotate the handle in your driver's-side wheel well counterclockwise until the latch engages. When the latch is engaged, the spring-loaded pin on the end of the handle will be inserted all the way through the base of the hitch ball, forming a strong, solid connection for secure towing.
When you're done towing, remove the hitch ball by pulling the handle out as far as it will go and then rotating it clockwise until it unlatches. Flip the ball upside down and drop it back into the ball hole of the hitch. Then reengage the latch to secure the stowed ball in place.
The Turnoverball hitch ball is designed with a square base, unlike typical gooseneck balls with round bases. This design makes latching the ball in the hitch easier as the base won't rotate inside of the hitch, making pin alignment a breeze. The base of the ball also fits tightly within the ball hole during storage, preventing any dirt or grime buildup that could cause the ball to seize up in the hitch.
This hitch is custom designed for your vehicle. The included mounting brackets bolt to existing holes in your truck's frame. While some modification is required - you will need to cut a 4" diameter hole in your bed for the hitch ball and drill holes for the built-in safety chain loops - there is no need to weld onto or to drill into your frame.
Once you have the hitch brackets and body installed, set up the operating handle. This handle is designed to be accessed from the rear driver's-side wheel well. On the end of the handle is the heavy-duty steel pin that secures the hitch ball.
B&W makes it easy to tow just about anything. With the many adapters and accessories available, the Turnoverball can be made to work with almost any gooseneck trailer. Hitch balls are available that have a built-in rise, an offset, and even a different connection type. Add on the Companion fifth-wheel hitch - which attaches directly to the Turnoverball with no other parts required - and you can tow your fifth-wheel trailer.
B&W Trailer Hitches is an American manufacturer known for durable, innovative towing products, including gooseneck hitches, fifth-wheel hitches, receiver hitches, and ball mounts. Built in Kansas by employee-owners, B&W products are engineered for dependable performance, easy installation, and long-lasting quality.
B&W Trailer Hitches is an American manufacturer known for building innovative, dependable towing products designed to make hitching easier and towing more comfortable. The company began in 1987 in Humboldt, Kansas, when founders Roger Baker and Joe Works combined their fabrication experience to build custom truck beds and solve common problems faced by truck owners.
B&W changed the gooseneck hitch industry with the introduction of the Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch. Its under-bed mounting system and reversible hitch ball allowed truck owners to quickly store the ball beneath the bed, leaving a clean and unobstructed surface when the hitch was not in use. B&W later applied the same practical approach to the Companion Fifth Wheel Hitch, creating a removable fifth-wheel hitch engineered for a quiet, smooth, and secure towing experience.
Today, B&W manufactures gooseneck hitches, fifth-wheel hitches, receiver hitches, ball mounts, and towing accessories at its nearly 600,000-square-foot facility. The company is owned by approximately 500 employee-owners who remain committed to American manufacturing, trusted materials, skilled craftsmanship, and long-lasting product quality.
Whether you are towing a work trailer, livestock trailer, camper, or fifth wheel, B&W Trailer Hitches offers thoughtfully engineered towing equipment built to perform mile after mile.
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Call 888-634-9494The 2002-2008 Dodge 1500 - Excludes Mega-Cab; 2014-2018 Ram 2500 Trucks B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1316 (Part #BQVLGNRK1316) fits the following vehicles: 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2002-2008 Dodge 1500 - Excludes Mega-Cab; 2014-2018 Ram 2500 Trucks B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1316 (Part #BQVLGNRK1316) fits 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500 models. The 2008 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2002-2008 Dodge 1500 - Excludes Mega-Cab; 2014-2018 Ram 2500 Trucks B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1316 (Part #BQVLGNRK1316) is designed to fit the 2002-2008 Dodge Ram 1500.
The 2002-2008 Dodge 1500 - Excludes Mega-Cab; 2014-2018 Ram 2500 Trucks B&W Turnoverball Kit GNRK1316 (Part #BQVLGNRK1316) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The 1316R fits Dodge 2002-2008 1/2 ton trucks with long or short beds, except Mega-Cab models. The product was designed for vehicles in original, as-manufactured condition. Before installation, inspect your vehicle for modifications, as compatibility with replacement parts or other modifications is not guaranteed.
Yes, the 1316R is designed for both long and short bed Dodge 1/2 ton trucks (2002-2008). However, before installing, check for adequate turning clearance between the front of all your trailers and the truck cab, as short bed trucks have less clearance.
No. The 1316R is not compatible with Mega-Cab models. It is designed for standard Dodge 1/2 ton trucks only.
The kit includes a center section (GNRC900) with a 2-5/16" ball, latch pin handle, safety chain kit, and a mounting kit (GNRM1316) with driver and passenger side plates, front and rear cross members, clamping straps, spacers, and all required fasteners (J-bolts, cap screws, lock washers, flat washers, lock nuts, and finish nuts). Specific quantities are listed in the parts breakdown on page 1.
No. The 1316R is designed to clamp to the frame without any welding, drilling, or modification of the truck frame itself. The hitch uses a clamping design with frame spacers that create a wedging lock.
Most Dodge trucks have fuel lines, brake lines, and electrical wires located along the frame rails where the hitch installs. You must carefully examine their location before installation to avoid damage when positioning hitch components, drilling holes, tightening fasteners, and lifting or lowering the truck bed. The fuel tank vent on top of the gas tank can be easily damaged. The manual recommends removing the bed bolts on the driver side and lifting the bed to give more clearance during installation of hitch parts under the bed floor.
An overhead lifting device such as chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long can be used to lift the center section into place. Lower a loop of rope or chain through the 4" hole in the truck bed floor and attach it to the latch pin in the round hitch receiver tube. Use the device to raise the center section until the round hitch receiver tube fits in the 4" hole. This may facilitate fastening, especially if the bed floor has been distorted. However, the lifting device must be disconnected before squaring the center section across the frame, installing the sideplates, and torquing fasteners.
Using a tape measure hooked over the rear edge of the bed at the tailgate end, measure the distance from the tailgate. Locate the center of the bed by measuring the distance between the wheel wells and dividing by two. The center of the hole will be at the intersection of these two measurements. For an 8' long bed, the hole is 47 5/8" from the tailgate. For a short bed (less than 8' long), the hole is 45 3/4" from the tailgate. Make the 4" hole using a 4" hole saw or by marking a 4" circle and cutting it out with a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade.
Yes, you may drill through both the bed and plastic bed liner, but it is more difficult to accurately locate the midpoint between the wheel wells and to ensure the bed liner does not move while sawing the hole. Use a 4" hole saw or a saber saw equipped with a metal cutting blade.
Yes. A small notch needs to be made in the sheet metal flange (about 1 inch in height) hanging down from the bottom of the truck bed floor on the passenger side. Locate the 7/16" hole in this flange above the axle and enlarge it by removing the metal below the hole to create a notch. This allows the cross members to be installed through the gap between the bed and frame.
On 2002-2005 model trucks, the angle leg with the notches should face the rear of the truck when installing through the notch. On 2006 and newer model trucks, the angle leg with the notches should face the front of the truck. Hold the angle in an inverted "V" position and push it across the frame using the notch for clearance at the apex. With the angle spanning the frame, move it rearward toward the bed cross member.
With the latch pin on the driver side and the socket offset to the front of the truck, raise the center section over the differential and between the cross members. Push the center section up to the floor while guiding the ring into the 4" hole in the truck bed. Thread four of the 1-1/2" bolts with a lock and flat washer into the front bar from inside the center section, leaving them loose. With the rear angle against the rear of the center section, install three 1-1/2" bolts through the center section and angle, securing with a lock and flat washer on each. Do not fully tighten at this time.
With the center section bolts still loose, place each side plate between the cross members with the long flange to the front. Thread a 1-1/2" bolt with a flat and lock washer into the bar. Install a bolt with two flat washers, a lock washer, and nut through the side plate ear and angle. Repeat on the passenger side. The side plates must be positioned between the bar and angle before final tightening.
Place a frame spacer between the side plate and the frame. Pass two bolts through the side plate rear holes and use a clamping strap to hold them loosely with a lock washer and nut. The front two holes have two installation positions: on 2002-2005 trucks use the forward two holes; on 2006+ trucks use the top front hole with the middle lower hole. For 2006+ trucks, add a brake line spacer on the inside of the frame to the driver side front before installing the clamping strap to ensure clearance. For 2002-2005 trucks, install the clamping strap between the brake line and frame. Hand tighten all side plate nuts until snug.
The frame spacer engages the offset in the truck frame to create a wedging lock that prevents the hitch from sliding forward on the frame. Before final bolt tightening, position the side plate so the frame spacer is mated against the offset in the frame but not riding up on it, which would create a gap between the spacer and frame.
Install the wedging J-bolts in the frame hole in front of the side plate and through the hole in the side plate front flange. Install the lock washer and nut. Tighten this nut only enough to achieve correct contact between the frame and side plate offsets. Loosely install all remaining hardware in the center section.
Tighten rear side plate clamping bolts and then front side plate clamping bolts to 60 ft-lbs. Tighten them slowly, alternating from top to bottom so they tighten evenly. Ensure bolts are perpendicular (90 degrees) to the truck frame. Tighten center section bolts to the front bar to 110 ft-lbs. Tighten bolts between the angle iron and side plates and between the angle iron and center section to 110 ft-lbs. Tighten the J-bolts to 40 ft-lbs.
1. Tighten rear side plate clamping bolts to 60 ft-lbs, alternating top to bottom. 2. Tighten front side plate clamping bolts to 60 ft-lbs, alternating top to bottom. 3. Center the front bar cross member and tighten bolts to side plates. 4. Tighten center section bolts to front bar to 110 ft-lbs. 5. Center the angle iron and tighten bolts to side plates and center section to 110 ft-lbs. 6. Tighten J-bolts to 40 ft-lbs. Ensure all bolts are perpendicular to the truck frame.
Insert the handle through the slot in the end of the center section on the driver side of the truck. Align the handle eyelet with the square hole in the latch pin so the handle is in line with the latch pin. Secure the handle to the pin with the 5/16" X 3/4" carriage bolt and 5/16" locking flange nut. The included 5/16" cap screw can replace the carriage bolt if wrench access on the cab side is limited. Tighten the nut until secure but do not over-tighten and deform the handle eyelet.
The center section may have multiple safety chain holes, but only 4 holes (2 on each side of the ball) need to be drilled. Examine the safety chain holes in the center section to determine which holes are under a low rib. Use a 1/2" drill bit and drill through the bed in the 4 low rib locations. Drop a U-bolt through each pair of holes from the top side of the truck bed floor. Place a conical spring and lock nut on each of the four legs. Tighten the lock nuts until flush with the bottom of the U-bolts.
Retract the latch pin by pulling the handle out until it stops and then rotating it. Place the 2-5/16" ball in the hitch receiver. Engage the latch pin by rotating the handle. Be certain the latch pin passes through the holes in the Turnoverball and fully engages through the hitch receiver. Grease the square base of the Turnoverball.
Do not invert the ball in the socket when carrying heavy loads on 2-wheel drive trucks. The ball may hit the top of the differential. Remove the ball from the socket before loading. A plug for the socket is available from B&W.
The tow vehicle's towing capacities should under no circumstances be exceeded. Refer to your vehicle manufacturer's specifications for the maximum towing capacity of your specific Dodge truck.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tightened to the specified torque values: side plate clamping bolts to 60 ft-lbs, center section bolts to 110 ft-lbs, and J-bolts to 40 ft-lbs. Ensure all bolts are perpendicular to the truck frame. Confirm the latch pin handle is installed correctly and the latch pin fully engages through the hitch receiver. Check that the frame spacers are properly mated against the frame offsets. Verify that the safety chain U-bolts are tightened until flush with the bottom of the U-bolts.
Grease the square base of the Turnoverball after installation. The manual does not specify additional maintenance intervals or procedures beyond this.
The 1316R fits Dodge 2002-2008 1/2 ton trucks with long or short beds, except Mega-Cab models. Inspect your vehicle for modifications before installation, as compatibility with replacement parts is not guaranteed.
Yes. You must drill a 4" hole in the truck bed floor (47 5/8" from tailgate for long bed, 45 3/4" for short bed) and four 1/2" holes for safety chain U-bolts. You must also notch the sheet metal flange under the bed on the passenger side. No frame welding or modification is required.
You need a tape measure, 4" hole saw or saber saw with metal cutting blade, 1/2" drill bit, wrenches or sockets for 1/2" and 5/16" fasteners, and a torque wrench. An overhead lifting device (chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long) is recommended but not required.
Side plate clamping bolts: 60 ft-lbs. Center section and angle iron bolts: 110 ft-lbs. J-bolts: 40 ft-lbs. Tighten side plate bolts slowly, alternating top to bottom, and ensure all bolts are perpendicular to the truck frame.
Yes. The manual recommends removing the bed bolts on the driver side and lifting the bed to give more clearance during installation of hitch parts under the bed floor, particularly to avoid damage to fuel lines, brake lines, and electrical wires.
No. Do not invert the ball in the socket when carrying heavy loads on 2-wheel drive trucks, as the ball may hit the top of the differential. Remove the ball from the socket before loading.
The handle eyelet must be aligned with the square hole in the latch pin so the handle is in line with the latch pin. The latch pin will not function properly if the handle is not installed correctly. Secure it with the 5/16" X 3/4" carriage bolt and 5/16" locking flange nut, tightened until secure but not over-tightened.
Verify that the latch pin release handle is installed correctly. The handle eyelet must be aligned with the square hole in the latch pin so the handle is in line with the latch pin. If the handle is not installed correctly, the latch pin will not function properly. Reinstall the handle, ensuring it is secured with the 5/16" X 3/4" carriage bolt and 5/16" locking flange nut, tightened until secure but not over-tightened.
A notch must be made in the sheet metal flange (about 1 inch in height) hanging down from the bottom of the truck bed floor on the passenger side. Locate the 7/16" hole in this flange above the axle and enlarge it by removing the metal below the hole to create a notch. This allows the cross members to be installed. Additionally, the manual recommends removing the bed bolts on the driver side and lifting the bed to give more clearance.
An overhead lifting device such as chain falls, engine hoist, or cable come-a-long can be used to lift the center section into place. Lower a loop of rope or chain through the 4" hole in the truck bed floor and attach it to the latch pin in the round hitch receiver tube. Use the lifting device to raise the center section until the round hitch receiver tube fits in the 4" hole. Maintaining upward pressure may facilitate fastening the cross member to the center section, especially if the truck bed floor has been distorted downward from heavy use.
Ensure that all bolts are perpendicular (90 degrees) to the truck frame. Bolts that are not perpendicular may loosen later. Retighten all bolts to their specified torque values: side plate clamping bolts to 60 ft-lbs, center section and angle iron bolts to 110 ft-lbs, and J-bolts to 40 ft-lbs.
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2002 - 2008 | Dodge Ram 1500 | Excludes Mega: Cab |
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