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Reese
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Always the correct part
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Quality Products
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Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer's tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a trunnion-based ballmount. The spring bars connect to the trailer frame via snap-up brackets and chains, and the trunnion (a pin-like component) pivots in the ballmount sockets to allow the spring bars to flex and distribute weight. This reduces front-end squat and improves stability compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and equal to or greater than the trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). The ball diameter must match the trailer coupler size.
Raised balls usually have reduced load ratings. The ball rating must equal or exceed the trailer GVWR. If you use a raised ball, verify that its rating is sufficient for your trailer's weight before installation.
Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer hitch bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. If you have these features, consult with the manufacturer or dealer to determine if a longer bar (part D) is needed for your application.
Yes, but you will need a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets. The adapter is not included with the hitch kit.
Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with the brake manufacturer before installation. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, chains, U-bolts, flat washers, locknuts, lock washers, and nuts. A bushing (B, not in all kits) is included if you need to use a 1" shank ball. An optional shim kit may be needed to fill gaps between the weight distributing head and hitch bar.
Basic tools include a wrench set, torque wrench (capable of 300 ft/lbs and 450 ft/lbs), and a jack. If installing the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt, you will need drill bits: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4".
Use the optional shim kit only if there is a gap between the weight distributing head and the hitch bar. Install the shim from top down. If the shim goes all the way to the bottom hole, use the entire shim. If it does not fit at all, discard it and continue installation—the gap is acceptable. If it does not reach the bottom hole, cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. In rare cases, two shims may be needed; contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim kit #58207.
1. Place the towing vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check the vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
Ball height should be greater than coupler height (measured in the initial setup) to compensate for vehicle squat, which is approximately 3/4" to 1". The ballmount can be positioned up or down on the hitch bar to achieve the correct height. Final ball height is confirmed after the trailer is loaded and the spring bars are adjusted.
1. Select a hitch ball with a V-5 rating equal to or greater than the trailer GVWR. 2. Attach the ball to the ballmount (G). Standard height balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the hole size to 1". 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height "Y" using the provided table, which is based on coupler height (X dimension) and coupler style (A, B, or C). 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
1. Install the longer 3/4" bolt (J) with two serrated washers (E) as shown in the diagram. 2. Install the lock washer (L) and nut (K), but allow space for the washers to be positioned and aligned. 3. Align the washers so the teeth are parallel and an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom. 4. Hold the washers in position and tighten the nut. 5. Torque both nuts (K) to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn them an additional 1/4 turn. 6. Do not lubricate the threads.
1. Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. 2. Using the tongue jack, lower the coupler onto the ball and close the coupler latch. 3. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 4. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G) and slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars fit on either side and are not made right or left handed. 5. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. 6. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Pick reference points on the front wheel well and measure the distance to the pavement before hooking up. 2. After the spring bars are loaded, lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. 3. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. If it is higher, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. If it is lower, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 4. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 5. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance of the weight distributing hitch system.
Yes. If the snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the location 2-1/4" above the arc, you must drill it. The drilling process involves: 1. Marking the hole location, centered left to right and 2-1/4" above the arc. 2. Drilling a 9/16" hole in the bracket before placing it on the frame. 3. Placing the bracket on the frame in the correct position. 4. Using the bracket hole as a guide, drilling a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. 5. Finishing with a 7/16" drill bit to create the final hole. The manual recommends using the 9/16" bit first to create a small dimple, then the 1/4" bit, then the 7/16" bit.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut.
Torque both nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn them an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw and tighten it to 50 ft/lbs. Then re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame, turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
The spring bar height Y is determined by the coupler height (X dimension) and coupler style (A, B, or C). The table shows: For coupler height 7", Y ranges from 7" (style A) to 5-1/2" (style C); for 8", Y ranges from 8" to 6-1/2"; for 9", Y ranges from 9" to 7-1/2"; for 10", Y ranges from 10" to 8-1/2"; for 11", Y ranges from 11" to 9-1/2". Add 1" to the Y dimension for non-integrated cam spring bars. Use this Y dimension when adjusting the ballmount angle during preliminary ballmount adjustment.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips. Verify that all electrical connections are in working order before towing.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of the towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel.
After installation and before towing: 1. Check that the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. 2. Check that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. 3. Verify that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 4. Verify that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use a heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops.
At the beginning of every towing day: 1. Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. 2. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. 3. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Replace before they become worn halfway through. 4. Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 5. Check that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
This hitch is compatible with towing vehicles and trailers using standard or integrated cam spring bars. It works with A-frame trailers and pole tongue trailers (with an adapter). Verify that your hitch ball is V-5 rated and equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR. Consult the manufacturer if you have air suspension, surge brakes, or other special systems.
You will need a wrench set, a torque wrench capable of 300 ft/lbs and 450 ft/lbs, and a jack. If installing the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt, you will also need drill bits: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4".
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt. The main hitch installation does not require drilling. If you add the bracket bolt, you will drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame, finishing with a 7/16" bit.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" nut) or 250 ft/lbs (1" nut). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn if torque wrench unavailable). Snap-up bracket additional bolt: 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height. If it does, you risk front wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust spring bar chain length to correct this before towing.
Lubricate trunnions with oil drops, clean and grease the ball, inspect chains and U-bolts for wear, verify all bolts are tight, check the hitch pin and clip are secure, and confirm electrical hookups and safety chains are in place.
The front wheel well height should equal the original measurement. If it is higher, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the measurement. If you cannot achieve the original height and no more chain links are available, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as needed, reassemble, and recheck.
If the front wheel well height is lower than the original measurement, increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the measurement. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded.
This is a critical safety issue. Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height, as it causes front wheel overload and loss of rear traction, leading to unstable handling and jackknifing. Reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
Check that the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Refer to the Preliminary Ballmount Adjustment section to tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension.
Check that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If there is not enough clearance, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (part D) or adjust the position of the snap-up brackets on the trailer frame.
If the washer teeth are not properly aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always align the washers so an equal number of teeth show at the top and bottom. Re-check washer alignment after the nut is tightened.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt when the snap-up bracket yoke is positioned, you must adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure to increase the number of links.
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