Reese Replacement Part, Adjustable Trunnion Weight-Distributing Bolt-Together Head Kit w/#54970 ShankReese$638.25Out of Stock
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Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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Authorized DealerA trunnion-style weight distributing hitch is a system that transfers tongue weight from the towing vehicle's rear axle to both the front and rear axles, improving stability and braking. It uses spring bars with trunnion (pin) connections that pivot in a ballmount head, and snap-up brackets that attach to the trailer frame. As the trailer is loaded, the spring bars compress and distribute the weight, helping to restore the towing vehicle's front-end height and maintain level towing geometry.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated and has a rating equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). If using a 1" shank ball, you must use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the ballmount hole size from 1-1/4" to 1".
Yes, some installations require a longer hitch bar (D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. Check your specific vehicle and trailer combination to determine if a longer bar is needed to ensure adequate turning clearance.
No, not directly. If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap-up brackets.
Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Additionally, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Yes, but you must check your vehicle's owner's manual first. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
You will need drill bits in three sizes: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". A wrench is also needed to tighten the self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs.
The kit includes two 1/2" x 1.00" self-tapping screws and an instruction sheet. If additional screws are needed, they are available in service kit 58459.
Use a heavy oil or grease. Lubricate the ballmount sockets and spring bar trunnions to prevent rapid wear. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion, and a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops.
Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check the vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
Ball height should be greater than coupler height (measured in the initial setup) to compensate for vehicle squat, which is approximately 3/4" to 1". This ensures that when the trailer is loaded and the vehicle squats, the ball and coupler will be at the proper height for level towing.
Attach the hitch ball to the ballmount (G). Standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. If using a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 (B) to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1".
Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. Place the ballmount (G) onto the hitch bar and move it up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar may be used in either the up or down position. Adjust the ballmount so that the ball height is greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat.
Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. Determine the spring bar height "Y" using the provided table based on your coupler height (X dimension). Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper "Y" dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
First, measure your coupler height (X dimension) from the ground to the top of the ball socket. Then, locate your coupler height in the left column of the table. Move across to find your coupler style (A, B, or C). The corresponding Y value is the spring bar height you need to set. For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension shown in the table.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: one for standard spring bars and one for integrated cam spring bars.
Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G) and slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground, and slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. Repeat for the other side.
Lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well reference point. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. If the front wheel well height is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by removing the upper bolt, pivoting the head up as needed, and reassembling.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance.
Yes. Check to see if the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Also check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner.
Yes. You must drill a 9/16" hole in the snap-up bracket 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, centered left to right. Then, using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame, staying centered. One method is to use the 9/16" drill bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" drill bit and finally the 7/16" drill bit to create the final hole. This drilling is required to install the 1/2" self-tapping screw.
Yes, in some cases. If the shim will not go in far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half. However, if the shim goes all the way down to line up with the bottom hole, use the entire shim. If the shim does not fit between the head and hitch bar at all, discard it and continue installation as the existing gap is acceptable.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After tightening the screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment.
The minimum is 4 links. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt during initial setup, you should adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If loaded ball height is greater than uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with rear wheels of a towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
The washer must be aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount. Re-check washer alignment after the nut is tightened. An equal number of teeth must show at the top and bottom. Teeth can be stripped when loaded if not properly aligned.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
Pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer, and should be negotiated at a slow steady speed.
Check to see if the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. Verify that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion, and a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket.
At the beginning of every towing day: (1) Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. (2) Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. (3) Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. (4) Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. (5) Check that electrical hookups are in working order and safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Heavy items should be placed close to the floor near the trailer axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and firmly secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
This is a trunnion-style weight distributing hitch designed for trailers with A-frame or integrated cam spring bars. It is compatible with most towing vehicles, but compatibility depends on your specific vehicle and trailer. Check with the manufacturer or a fitment database for your vehicle model, year, and trailer type. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, consult your vehicle owner's manual.
You may need: a longer hitch bar (D) if you have extended bumper guards, a truck cap, or rear-mounted spare tire; bushing 58184 (B) if using a 1" shank hitch ball; an optional shim kit to fill gaps between the weight distributing head and hitch bar; and a pole tongue adapter if your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame. Check your specific installation to determine what is needed.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap-up bracket additional bolt. You will need to drill a 9/16" hole in the snap-up bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame using the provided drill bit sequence (9/16", 1/4", then 7/16"). The main hitch installation does not require drilling.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" nut) or 250 ft/lbs (1" nut). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs + 1/4 turn if torque wrench unavailable). Snap-up bracket self-tapping screw: 50 ft/lbs. Snap-up bracket bolt: turn until contact, then 1/4 turn (do not overtighten).
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, you risk front-wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust chain links to correct this before towing. Also, never tow multiple trailers, and do not hook up or tow front-wheel-drive vehicles with rear wheels removed.
Lubricate trunnions with one drop of oil at contact areas. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Verify all bolts are tight and the hitch pin and clip are secure. Check that electrical hookups and safety chains are in working order.
Reduce the number of links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the original wheel well height is still not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. If there are no more chain links for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward: uncouple the trailer, remove the upper bolt from the head assembly, pivot the head up as appropriate, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. Continue adjusting until the front wheel well height matches the original measurement or is as close as possible.
This indicates that the ballmount angle needs adjustment. Adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap-up bracket setup procedure to achieve at least 5 links between the hook and U-bolt.
This is a critical safety issue that can cause front-wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and jackknifing. Reduce the take-up (number of links) on the spring bar chains and re-measure the ball height until the loaded height is equal to or less than the uncoupled height.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, or if an unequal number of teeth show at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when the hitch is loaded. Always ensure the washers are aligned parallel with the ballmount teeth and re-check alignment after tightening the nut.
Check to see if the trailer is level. If it is not level, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Verify that the spring bar height (Y dimension) is correct for your coupler height (X dimension) using the provided table. Also check that the snap-up bracket positioning is correct and that the chain links are properly adjusted.
There is insufficient clearance between the spring bar, chain, and vehicle or trailer components. You may need to use a longer hitch bar (D) to provide more clearance, or reposition the snap-up brackets. Check that the chain is not binding and that there is adequate space for the bar and chain to move freely during turns.
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Ordered online. Shipment arrived on time and with all the correct parts. Great customer service and friendly staff. Also, pricing was great!
May 22, 2023