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Reese
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Always the correct part
We know our products
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Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the trailer tongue weight across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head assembly. The trunnion (a pin-like component) connects the spring bars to the ballmount, allowing the system to flex and level the vehicle when the trailer is loaded. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". The ball diameter must match your trailer coupler size. Select a ball with a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank rated V-5 with a capacity equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). If you must use a 1" shank ball, use bushing 58184 to reduce the ballmount hole size to 1".
Yes, some installations require a longer hitch bar (part D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes. Consult with the manufacturer or your installer to determine the correct length for your vehicle.
If your trailer has a straight tongue instead of an A-frame tongue, you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides a place to attach the snap up brackets.
Yes. Some surge brakes will not work with weight distributing hitches. Check with your brake manufacturer before installation. Do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Yes. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, check your vehicle owner's manual. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
You will need drill bits in three sizes: 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". A wrench is also needed to tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs.
The snap up bracket service kit includes two 1/2" x 1.00" self-tapping screws and an instruction sheet. If you need additional self-tapping screws, they are available in service kit 58459.
1. Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. Ball height should be greater than coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. For vehicles with air springs or automatic leveling, check the owner's manual and level the vehicle as it will be when towing before setting ball height.
Yes. The vehicle and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling and height adjustment. This ensures the hitch is set up correctly for the actual towing conditions.
Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut, or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Use the table provided in the manual. Measure your trailer coupler height (X dimension) and select the corresponding coupler style (A, B, or C). The table shows the required spring bar height (Y) for each coupler height range. For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension shown in the table.
1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine spring bar height Y using the table. 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount for the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
Attach chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. The chain must not bind. The manual shows two configurations: one for standard spring bars and one for integrated cam spring bars.
1. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 2. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 3. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
Position the snap up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Turn the 1/2 X 3-1/2 bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. 4. With the snap up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Lower the jack. 2. Re-measure the front wheel well reference point. 3. The front wheel well height should be equal to the original measurement. 4. If higher than original, reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 5. If lower than original, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 6. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded. 7. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by removing the upper bolt, pivoting the head up as needed, and reassembling.
Yes. You must drill a 9/16" hole in the snap up bracket before placing it on the frame. The hole should be centered left to right and positioned 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket. Then, using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, followed by a 7/16" hole for the final installation. One method is to use the 9/16" drill bit first to make a small dimple in the frame, then finish with the 1/4" and 7/16" bits.
Yes. If the shim will not go in far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim. If the shim will not begin to fit between the head and hitch bar, discard it and continue installation as the existing gap is acceptable.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs, then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Torque the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. After tightening the main screw, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn after making contact with the frame.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment.
Yes. Always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips. Proper electrical connections are essential for safe towing.
Loaded ball height should never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer and should be negotiated at a slow, steady speed.
Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. When hooking up, place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. Use heavy oil or grease. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
At the beginning of every towing day: 1. Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. 2. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. 3. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear; replace before they become worn halfway through. 4. Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 5. Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to prevent contamination of head sockets, reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects, and minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
After initial setup: 1. Check to see if the trailer is level; if not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. 2. Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. 3. Verify that the front wheel well height matches the original measurement after loading.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. This is the manufacturer's recommendation for best performance.
Towing Products warrants its hitches against defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service, ordinary wear and tear excepted, for the ownership life of the original consumer purchaser from the date of purchase. Towing Products will replace free of charge any part that proves defective in material or workmanship when presented to any Towing Products dealer, warehouse, or returned to the factory with prepaid transportation. This warranty is limited to defective parts replacement only and excludes labor charges and damage incurred in installation or replacement. Any damage resulting from misuse, abuse, neglect, accident, improper installation, or use violating the instructions will void the warranty.
This is a universal trunnion style weight distributing kit designed for towing vehicles with trailers. Compatibility depends on your vehicle's hitch receiver, trailer coupler size, and GVWR. Consult the manufacturer or a fitment database for your specific vehicle and trailer combination.
You must purchase a hitch ball separately. Select one with a diameter matching your trailer coupler (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16"), a 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank, V-5 rated, and a capacity equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR.
Drilling is required only if you install the optional snap up bracket additional bolt. You will need to drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame, followed by a 7/16" final hole.
You need a torque wrench capable of 450 ft/lbs (for the hitch ball nut), 300 ft/lbs (for the high-performance ballmount nuts), and 50 ft/lbs (for the snap up bracket self-tapping screw).
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If it is, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, causing unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust spring bar chains if this occurs.
Lubricate the trunnions and ballmount each towing day before hooking up. Place one drop of oil on the top and forward side of the upper trunnion, and one drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion. Also lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops.
After loading, the front wheel well height should match the original uncoupled measurement. The trailer should be level. There should be room for the spring bar and chain to move when turning corners. If the front wheel well is higher or lower than original, adjust the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar.
Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the front wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high, continue reducing links until the measurement matches the original.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the front wheel well measurement. If the original height is not achievable, it is preferred that the wheel well height be lower after the spring bars are loaded.
If there are no more chain links available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward. Uncouple the trailer and remove the upper bolt from the head assembly. Pivot the head up as appropriate, reassemble, and recheck the wheel well height.
If the shim will not begin to fit between the head and hitch bar, discard the shim and continue installation. The existing gap is acceptable.
Cut the shim in half and use only the top half for the top bolt. Discard the bottom half of the shim.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, the teeth can be stripped when loaded. Always ensure an equal number of teeth shows at the top and bottom of the washer. Re-check washer alignment after tightening the nut.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the snap up bracket engagement procedure.
This is a critical safety issue. Loaded ball height greater than uncoupled height causes front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Reduce the take-up on the spring bar chains and re-measure until the proper height is obtained.
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May 22, 2023
