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Draw-tite
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Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
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Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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A trunnion style weight distributing hitch kit is a towing system that distributes the weight of a trailer across the towing vehicle's frame using spring bars and a ballmount head. The trunnions (pivot points) on the spring bars rotate in sockets on the ballmount, allowing the system to level the vehicle when the trailer is loaded. This improves stability, braking, and handling compared to a standard hitch.
The three most common compatible hitch ball sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". The ball must have a V-5 rated shank (either 1-1/4" or 1" diameter) with a rating equal to or greater than your trailer's gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). Raised balls typically have reduced load ratings and must still meet or exceed the trailer GVWR.
Yes, but you must consult your vehicle's owner manual first. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, the manual requires you to check the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations before installation. Unless otherwise specified, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
Some surge brake trailers are not compatible with weight distributing hitches. You must check with the trailer or brake manufacturer before using this kit. Additionally, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
No, this kit is designed for A-frame trailers. If your trailer has a straight tongue (pole tongue), you will need to use a pole tongue adapter. This adapter attaches to the trailer tongue and provides attachment points for the snap-up brackets.
For the main hitch installation, you will need a torque wrench capable of 300 ft/lbs and 450 ft/lbs. If installing the optional snap-up bracket reinforcement, you will also need drill bits in sizes 7/16", 9/16", and 1/4". A wrench is needed to tighten the snap-up bracket bolts.
The kit includes a ballmount (G), hitch bar (D, not in all kits), spring bars with trunnions, snap-up brackets, chains with U-bolts, flat washers, locknuts, lock washers, and a pull pin. Standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lock washers and nuts. If you need to use a 1" shank ball, bushing 58184 (B) is available to reduce the hole size. An optional shim kit is available to fill gaps between the weight distributing head and hitch bar.
No, the hitch ball is not included. You must select and purchase a ball separately that matches your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and has a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer's GVWR.
1. Line up the tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement in a straight-ahead position, uncoupled. 2. Level the trailer and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension). 3. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat when loaded. Use the spring bar height table to determine the proper Y dimension based on your coupler height and style.
The spring bar height (Y dimension) is the distance from the ground to the end of the spring bar when it is inserted into the ballmount at the proper angle. Use the table provided in the manual: for coupler heights of 7"-11" and coupler styles A, B, or C, the Y dimension ranges from 15" to 26". For non-integrated cam spring bars, add 1" to the Y dimension shown in the table. Determine your coupler height and style, then find the corresponding Y value.
Yes. The manual states that the car and trailer should be loaded and ready for travel before final leveling. For vehicles with air springs, air shocks, or automatic leveling systems, level the vehicle with it loaded as it will be when towing before setting ball height and attaching the trailer.
1. Select a hitch ball with a diameter matching your trailer coupler (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") and a V-5 rating equal to or greater than trailer GVWR. 2. If using a 1-1/4" shank, the ball comes with lock washers and nuts. If using a 1" shank, use bushing 58184 to reduce the hole size. 3. Always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut. 4. Torque the ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut, unless the ball manufacturer specifies otherwise.
1. Insert the hitch bar into the hitch box and install a pull pin. 2. Place the ballmount onto the hitch bar. 3. Move the ballmount up or down to achieve the proper height. The hitch bar can be used in either the up or down position. 4. The ball height should be greater than the coupler height (measured in step 1) by approximately 3/4" to 1" to compensate for vehicle squat.
The preliminary ballmount adjustment is performed before hooking up the trailer. 1. Install hardware in the lower hole of the ballmount and tighten the nut enough to prevent easy rotation. 2. Determine the spring bar height (Y) using the provided table. 3. Insert the spring bar and trunnion into the ballmount. 4. Swing the bar outward to the same angle as when connected to the trailer. 5. Lift up on the bar to remove slack. 6. Tilt the ballmount to achieve the proper Y dimension at the end of the spring bar. The ballmount is adjustable through a 15° angle range.
Attach the chains to the spring bars using U-bolts, flat washers, and locknuts. Let 2-3 threads protrude below the locknut. Ensure the chain does not bind. The procedure is the same for both standard spring bars and integrated cam spring bars.
1. Hold the spring bar away from you with the trunnion ribbed side up. 2. Set the bottom knob of the trunnion into the lower socket of the ballmount (G). 3. Slide the knob into the top slot of the ballmount. The spring bars will fit on either side as they are not made right or left handed.
The snap-up bracket is a device that attaches the spring bar chains to the trailer A-frame. Position the snap-up brackets on the trailer A-frame so that the chain at the end of the spring bar is approximately vertical. Install the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
1. Raise the trailer tongue and rear of the vehicle with a jack. 2. Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it is parallel with the ground. 3. Slip the closest link of the chain over the hook. If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat. 4. With the snap-up bracket handle over the yoke, raise until the yoke has passed over-center. 5. Slide the safety pin through the small hole to lock the yoke in place. 6. Repeat for the other side.
1. Pick reference points on the front wheel well and measure the distance to the pavement before hooking up. 2. After the spring bars are loaded, lower the jack and re-measure the front wheel well height. 3. The height should be equal to the original measurement. 4. If the front wheel well is higher than originally measured, reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck. 5. If the front wheel well is lower than originally measured, increase the number of chain links and recheck. 6. If the original height cannot be achieved, it is preferred that the height be lower after loading. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by removing the upper bolt, pivoting the head up as needed, and reassembling.
FALR stands for Front Axle Load Return. 100% FALR means the front fender is returned to the preload position. The manual recommends achieving 100% FALR for best performance of the weight distributing hitch.
After loading and adjusting the spring bars: 1. Check to see if the trailer is level. If not, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. 2. Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner.
Yes. If your snap-up bracket does not already have a hole in the specified location, you must drill it. The procedure is: 1. Mark the location 2-1/4" above the arc in the bracket, centered left to right. 2. Drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket. 3. Place the bracket on the frame in the correct position. 4. Using the bracket hole as a guide, drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the frame, staying centered. 5. One method is to use the 9/16" drill first to make a small dimple, then finish with the 1/4" drill and then the 7/16" drill for the final hole. 6. Install the 1/2" self-tapping screw and tighten to 50 ft/lbs.
Torque the hitch ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for a 1-1/4" nut or 250 ft/lbs for a 1" nut. Unless otherwise specified by the ball manufacturer, always use a lock washer and place it next to the nut.
Torque the two nuts (K) on the high-performance ballmount to 300 ft/lbs. If a proper torque wrench is not available, torque the nuts to 150 ft/lbs and then turn the nuts an additional 1/4 turn. Do not lubricate the threads.
Tighten the 1/2" self-tapping screw to 50 ft/lbs. Additionally, re-tighten the 1/2" set screw on the inside of the frame by turning only 1/4 to 1/2 turn after making contact with the frame.
Turn the 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt until it contacts the frame, then tighten 1/4 turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten.
The ballmount (G) is adjustable through a 15° angle range for proper spring bar adjustment.
The manual does not provide electrical wiring instructions for the hitch itself. However, it emphasizes that you must always hook up trailer lights, turn signals, electric brakes, and break-away switch connection (if equipped) even for short trips.
Loaded ball height must never be greater than uncoupled ball height. If the loaded ball height is greater than the uncoupled height, front wheel overload and loss of rear wheel traction can result, leading to unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife when turning and braking at the same time. If this occurs, reduce the take-up on spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained.
No. Do not attempt to tow any type of trailer behind another trailer. Towing multiple trailers may cause severe instability, loss of control, and/or structural failure, and may result in vehicle accident, property damage, and personal injury. Towing multiple trailers is illegal in many jurisdictions.
No. Do not attempt to hook up or tow with the rear wheels of a front-wheel-drive towing vehicle removed. Severe structural damage to the towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer may result. A towing vehicle/trailer combination cannot be controlled adequately unless the towing vehicle's rear wheels are carrying their share of the load.
No. Trailers should not be occupied while being towed, under any circumstances.
If any part of your towing system bottoms out, or if you suspect damage may have occurred in any other way, pull over and make a thorough inspection. Correct any problems before resuming travel. Severe bumps and badly undulating roads can damage your towing vehicle, hitch, and trailer, and should be negotiated at a slow steady speed.
At the beginning of every towing day: 1. Add a drop of oil at trunnion contact areas with the ballmount. 2. Clean the ball and coupler socket and coat the ball lightly with grease. 3. Check spring bar chains and U-bolts for wear. Replace before they become worn halfway through. 4. Check that all bolts are properly tightened and the hitch pin and clip are securely in place. 5. Check that electrical hookups are in working order and that safety chains are connected.
Lubricate the ballmount sockets and spring bar trunnions to prevent rapid wear. When hooking up: 1. Place one drop of oil on the top and a second drop on the forward side of the upper trunnion. 2. Place a third drop on the rear side of the lower trunnion before inserting it into the ballmount. 3. Use heavy oil or grease. 4. Lubricate the hitch ball with one or two drops. Trunnions should be lubricated each towing day. It is not necessary to unhook the spring bars, as there are two oil holes in the ballmount top plate for upper trunnion lubrication. Lubricate lower trunnions with one drop at the contact point between trunnion and lower socket. Excess oil, dirt, and grit should be wiped out whenever the trailer is uncoupled.
Keep trunnions and sockets in the head assembly free of dirt and well lubricated. Excessive wear in this area may indicate overload or inadequate lubrication. Some elongation of socket openings (seat-in) is normal. Keep the head assembly exterior clean, especially the trunnion sockets. Do not allow dirt or stones to lodge between trunnions and the head. Keep the hitch painted to prevent rust and maintain a good appearance. Do not paint over labels.
Yes. Remove the hitch from the towing vehicle receiver when not towing to: 1. Prevent contamination of head sockets. 2. Reduce the chance of striking the hitch on driveway ramps or other objects. 3. Minimize damage in the event of a rear-end collision.
Proper trailer loading is important for safe towing. Heavy items should be placed close to the floor near the trailer axle. The load should be balanced side-to-side and firmly secured to prevent shifting. Tongue weight should be about 10-15 percent of the gross trailer weight for most trailers. Too low a percentage of tongue weight will often produce a tendency to sway. Excess weight on the tongue can also lead to sway and damage the hitch and/or tow vehicle.
A sway control can help minimize the effects of sudden maneuvers, wind gusts, and buffeting caused by other vehicles. Use of a sway control is recommended for trailers with large surface areas, such as travel trailers. However, do not use sway control with surge brakes.
Unless specified otherwise by the towing vehicle or trailer manufacturer, tires should be inflated to their maximum recommended pressure.
This kit fits trailers with A-frame tongues. It is not compatible with straight-tongue (pole tongue) trailers unless you use a pole tongue adapter. Verify your trailer has an A-frame tongue and that your towing vehicle can accommodate the hitch ball size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") matching your trailer coupler.
You must purchase a hitch ball separately that matches your trailer coupler size (1-7/8", 2", or 2-5/16") with a V-5 rating equal to or greater than your trailer GVWR. You will also need a torque wrench capable of 300-450 ft/lbs. If installing the snap-up bracket reinforcement, you will need drill bits (7/16", 9/16", 1/4").
Drilling is not required for the main hitch installation. However, if you choose to install the optional snap-up bracket reinforcement bolt, you must drill a 9/16" hole in the bracket and a 1/4" pilot hole in the trailer frame.
Hitch ball nut: 450 ft/lbs (1-1/4" shank) or 250 ft/lbs (1" shank). High-performance ballmount nuts: 300 ft/lbs (or 150 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn if torque wrench unavailable). Snap-up bracket reinforcement bolt: 50 ft/lbs.
Loaded ball height must never exceed uncoupled ball height. If it does, you risk front-wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking, and jackknifing. Adjust the spring bar chain length to correct this before towing.
Before each towing day: lubricate trunnions with one drop of oil, clean and grease the ball, inspect chains and U-bolts for wear, verify all bolts are tight, and check that the hitch pin and safety clip are secure.
No. Do not tow multiple trailers (illegal in many jurisdictions and causes instability). Do not tow front-wheel-drive vehicles with rear wheels removed (causes structural damage and loss of control).
Reduce the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar (minimum 4 links) and recheck the wheel well measurement. If the height is still too high, continue reducing links until the original height is achieved or the height is lower than the original measurement.
Increase the number of chain links between the yoke hook and spring bar and recheck the wheel well measurement. Continue adjusting until the original height is achieved. If no more chain links are available for adjustment, the head assembly must be tilted forward by removing the upper bolt, pivoting the head up as needed, and reassembling.
This is a critical safety issue. The loaded ball height must never exceed the uncoupled height. Reduce the take-up on the spring bar chains and re-measure until proper height is obtained. If this condition persists, do not tow until the problem is corrected, as it will cause front-wheel overload, loss of rear traction, unstable handling, reduced braking ability, and a tendency to jackknife.
If the serrated washers are not aligned parallel with the teeth on the ballmount, with an equal number of teeth showing at the top and bottom, the teeth can be stripped when the hitch is loaded. Always check washer alignment after tightening the nut and re-check after each use.
Use the optional shim kit to fill gaps between the weight distributing head and hitch bar. Install the shim from top down. If the shim goes all the way down to align with the bottom hole, use the entire shim. If the shim does not fit between the head and bar at all, discard it (the gap is acceptable). If the shim does not go far enough to reach the bottom hole, cut it in half and use only the top half for the top bolt, discarding the bottom half. In rare cases where two shims are needed, contact Customer Service at 800-632-3290 or 800-428-7303 for a free additional shim kit #58207.
If there are fewer than 5 links between the hook and U-bolt, adjust the ballmount angle rearward and repeat the procedure. This will change the angle of the spring bar and allow the yoke to pass over-center properly.
Check to see if the trailer is level after loading. If it is not level, you may need to re-adjust the ballmount angle and/or position. Verify that the spring bar height (Y dimension) is correct for your coupler height and style using the provided table.
Check to see that there is room for the bar and chain to move when turning a corner. If there is not enough clearance, you may need to use a longer hitch bar (D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck caps, or rear-mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars are available in various sizes.
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May 22, 2023
