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2006 - 2010 Hyundai Hyundai
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 - 2010 | Hyundai Hyundai | — |
The 06-10 Hyundai HYUNDAI 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1395 (Part #HBCW1395) fits 2006-2010 Hyundai Hyundai models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 06-10 Hyundai HYUNDAI 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1395 (Part #HBCW1395) fits the following vehicles: 2006-2010 Hyundai Hyundai. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 06-10 Hyundai HYUNDAI 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1395 (Part #HBCW1395) is designed to fit the 2006-2010 Hyundai Hyundai.
The 06-10 Hyundai HYUNDAI 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1395 (Part #HBCW1395) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11250 is designed for 2012 Hyundai Accent Sedan. Note that the Hyundai Accent Sedan does not require drilling during installation, unlike the Hyundai Accent Hatchback and Kia Rio Sedan.
Yes, CURT 11250 is designed for 2012 Kia Rio Sedan. Installation requires drilling a 15/32" hole on the driver side frame rail.
CURT 11250 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads can be applied to this hitch only if they are supported by CURT 18050 Stabilizing Straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on the 18050 straps.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 11/16" socket, 9/16" socket, power drill, and 15/32" drill bit. Note: Hyundai Accent Sedan does not require drilling, so the drill and drill bit are not needed for that model.
The kit includes: (2) 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/4" carriage bolts (part 10-10281), (3) 7/16-14 UNC hex flange nuts (part 20-00103), (3) .250 x .88 x 2.25" square hole spacers (part CM-SP2), (1) .188 x 1.50 x 3.00" round hole spacer (part CM-SP34), (1) 3/8-16 UNC 1-1/2" hex cap screw (part 10-10234), (1) 3/8" flat washer (part 30-00186), (1) 3/8-16 UNC hex flange nut (part 20-00102), (2) 7/16" fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE), and (1) 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/2" carriage bolt (part 10-10282).
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. For technical support, call 877-287-8634.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation. Using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
No, drilling is not required for Hyundai Accent Sedan. However, drilling is required for Kia Rio Sedan and Hyundai Accent Hatchback.
A 15/32" drill bit is required. The hole is drilled on the driver side frame rail at the forward hole location when the hitch is raised into position with the tow loop mounting tab resting on top of the tow hook.
Torque all 3/8" fasteners to 45 lb-ft and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft.
Fishwire is a technique used to route carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame access holes. For the forward hole on the driver side, fishwire (1) 7/16" carriage bolt and (1) CM-SP2 spacer through the access hole. For each side access hole, reverse fishwire (1) 7/16" carriage bolt and (1) CM-SP2 spacer. The access hole location varies depending on vehicle model. Refer to the installation walkthrough diagrams for the specific technique.
Two types of spacers are used: (3) .250 x .88 x 2.25" square hole spacers (CM-SP2) are used with the 7/16" carriage bolts through the frame rails, and (1) .188 x 1.50 x 3.00" round hole spacer (CM-SP34) is installed with the 3/8" hardware onto the vehicle tow loop.
No. After raising the hitch back into position and installing the carriage bolts and spacers, loosely install the (3) 7/16" hex flange nuts. Do not fully tighten them until step 6, when you torque all 3/8" fasteners to 45 lb-ft and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft.
1. Remove rubber plugs from frame holes if present. 2. Raise hitch into position with tow loop mounting tab resting on tow hook; mark and drill forward hole on driver side (15/32" bit) if required; remove hitch. 3. Fishwire carriage bolts and spacers through access holes. 4. Raise hitch back into position and loosely install hex flange nuts. 5. Install 3/8" hardware with spacer onto vehicle tow loop. 6. Torque all fasteners to specification.
Return the rubber plugs to the vehicle owner.
CURT 11250 is designed for use with ball mount part number D-55001 or 45501. Euro mount options are available: part number 45571 (1-7/8" ball) and part number 45572 (2" ball).
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This should be done regularly to maintain safe operation.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
2012 Hyundai Accent Sedan and 2012 Kia Rio Sedan.
Drilling is required for Kia Rio Sedan and Hyundai Accent Hatchback (15/32" drill bit), but not for Hyundai Accent Sedan.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 11/16" and 9/16" sockets, power drill, and 15/32" drill bit (not needed for Hyundai Accent Sedan). Safety glasses are required.
Torque 3/8" fasteners to 45 lb-ft and 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft.
Yes, but only if supported by CURT 18050 Stabilizing Straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56254 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for the Hyundai Accent hatchback. The harness connects to the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors located behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings inside the trunk.
The Curt 56254 has two circuit ratings: Signal Circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running Circuits are rated at 5.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
You will need a panel trim removal tool and a Phillips screwdriver. The harness comes with a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for the converter box, cable ties, and a 4-flat dust cover.
Yes. The first step of installation is to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. The battery must remain disconnected throughout the installation process and is reconnected only in the final step.
The custom wiring harness has two ends: the end with the yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connectors, and the end with the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connectors. Both ends insert between the separated taillight housing connectors inside the trunk.
1. Remove the side trim panels to access the taillight connectors. 2. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors behind the taillight housing. 3. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 4. Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow for driver side, green for passenger side) between the separated connectors. 5. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process for both sides of the vehicle.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire installation. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area where you drill the ground wire pilot hole should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
The black converter box should be adhered to a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. When not in use, the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and reinstall all items removed during installation before testing.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56254 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for the Hyundai Accent hatchback.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 5.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Panel trim removal tool and Phillips screwdriver. The harness includes a ground screw, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a 4-flat dust cover.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire. If no existing screw is available in the vehicle frame near the connector, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw.
Do not exceed the product rating (Signal Circuits 3.0 amps per side, Tail/Running Circuits 5.0 amps total) or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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