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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2010 - 2019 Lincoln MKT With EcoBoost. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Flex and Lincoln MKT (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,000 lbs. GTW and 400 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 4,000 lbs. WD and 400 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Lincoln MKT (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 - 2017 | Lincoln MKT | With EcoBoost |
The 10 - 17 Lincoln MKT With EcoBoost Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13110 (Part #5W-CHW-2197) fits 2010-2017 Lincoln MKT models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 10 - 17 Lincoln MKT With EcoBoost Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13110 (Part #5W-CHW-2197) fits the following vehicles: 2010-2017 Lincoln MKT. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 10 - 17 Lincoln MKT With EcoBoost Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13110 (Part #5W-CHW-2197) is designed to fit the 2010-2017 Lincoln MKT.
The 10 - 17 Lincoln MKT With EcoBoost Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13110 (Part #5W-CHW-2197) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the Curt 13110 is designed for Ford Flex, Flex Ecoboost, and Lincoln MKT models. The installation process is the same for all three, but note that Ford Flex Ecoboost and Lincoln MKT models have dual exhaust, so the installation steps must be repeated on both the driver and passenger sides.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing weld nuts on the vehicle and aligns with existing slots. The manual explicitly states 'NO DRILL' as an installation note.
You will need: a ratchet, 10" extension, 18mm and 19mm sockets, and a torque wrench. These tools are needed to remove the rubber isolators, remove the muffler hanger bracket, and torque the M12 fasteners to specification.
The kit includes 4 M12-1.75 x 40mm hex bolts and 4 conical toothed washers (1/2" size). These fasteners are used to secure the hitch to the existing weld nuts on the vehicle. The muffler hanger bracket bolts that you remove during installation should be returned to the vehicle owner.
The first step is to lower the exhaust by removing 3 rubber isolators. Support the exhaust as needed to prevent damage. A rubber isolator removal diagram is provided in the manual to guide this process.
Yes. Remove the muffler hanger bracket by removing its bolts (2 bolts). Keep these bolts and return them to the vehicle owner. On the driver side, the hanger bracket is then sandwiched between the hitch and the exhaust during final assembly.
Rotate the hitch into position above the exhaust and align the slots in the hitch with the existing weld nuts on the vehicle. The hitch uses these factory weld nuts for attachment, so proper alignment is essential before fastening.
The passenger side is secured using the existing weld nuts on the vehicle, along with the M12 hex head bolts and 1/2" conical toothed washers provided in the kit. All M12 fasteners are then torqued to 86 ft. lbs.
The driver side is sandwiched with the muffler hanger bracket and secured using the M12 hex head bolts and 1/2" conical toothed washers provided. The muffler hanger bracket sits between the hitch and the exhaust. All M12 fasteners are then torqued to 86 ft. lbs.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 86 ft. lbs. This applies to all four M12 hex head bolts used to secure the hitch.
The hitch weight is 85 lbs.
Professional installation takes approximately 39 minutes. DIY installation for a novice takes approximately 40 minutes.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of the hitch voids the warranty. The warranty covers defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If a defect is found, Curt Manufacturing will repair or replace the product at their option.
Yes. When lowering the exhaust by removing the rubber isolators, you must support the exhaust as needed to prevent damage. Failure to do so could result in damage to the exhaust system.
After all M12 fasteners are torqued to 86 ft. lbs., raise the exhaust back into position. This completes the installation process.
No, the installation steps are the same for all three models (Ford Flex, Flex Ecoboost, and Lincoln MKT). However, because Ford Flex Ecoboost and Lincoln MKT models have dual exhaust, you must repeat the installation instructions for both the driver and passenger sides.
Ford Flex, Flex Ecoboost, and Lincoln MKT models.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing weld nuts on the vehicle.
Ratchet, 10" extension, 18mm and 19mm sockets, and a torque wrench.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 86 ft. lbs.
Approximately 39 minutes for professional installation; approximately 40 minutes for DIY installation.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The manual covers installation for the Lincoln MKT only. Compatibility with other vehicles is not documented in this manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. Do not use it on any other electrical system configuration.
You will need an 8mm socket to remove the taillight housings. If you need to create a ground point, you will need a 3/32" drill bit. The manual does not specify other tools required for the installation.
The kit includes: a T-connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a 4-flat connector, a black converter box, a white ground wire with eyelet and screw, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a fuse holder with 10 amp fuse (maximum). A ring terminal for battery connection is also shown in the wiring diagram.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire to the battery. This is a critical safety step to prevent electrical shock or short circuits during installation.
Open the rear hatch and remove both taillight housings by removing the screws on each using an 8mm socket. Pull out on the housing to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness, which will have connectors similar to those on the T-connector harness.
Separate the connectors on the driver's side, being careful not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end with the yellow wire in-between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the T-connector end with the green wire and the 4-flat down through the opening under the taillight. Under the vehicle, route the green wire across the backside of the bumper to the passenger side and up through the opening under the passenger side taillight. Then repeat the connection process on the passenger side using the green wire.
Adhere the black converter box to the frame of the vehicle using the double-sided tape provided. The exact location should be convenient and secure, away from moving parts and heat sources.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white ground wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage or personal injury.
The wire colours represent the following functions: Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Taillight. The yellow wire connects to the driver's side taillight harness, and the green wire connects to the passenger side.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger when routing the black power wire from the battery to the converter. The manual specifies 12 GA wire minimum for the battery connection.
Route the black 12 gauge power wire from the converter to the positive (+) battery terminal. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. The negative battery cable must be disconnected before making this connection. After all other steps are complete, install the 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire from being damaged and causing electrical faults or safety hazards.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided in the kit. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and secure it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location.
Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the cable ties provided. Take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components when routing the wire to the battery.
Before drilling any hole, verify that no miscellaneous items are hidden behind or under the surface where you plan to drill. This includes wiring, fuel lines, brake lines, or other components that could be damaged, causing personal injury or property damage.
If you need to drill a ground hole, the hole size is 3/32". Drill this hole only if a suitable existing ground point (such as a screw with nut in the vehicle frame) is not available.
Yes, the Curt 56095 is designed for the Lincoln MKT. It is a 12 volt negative ground system converter and requires access to the taillight housings and vehicle battery.
You need an 8mm socket to remove the taillight housings and a 3/32" drill bit if you need to create a ground point. All other hardware and fasteners are included.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire. This is essential for safety.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger for the battery connection. The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Before drilling, verify that no miscellaneous items (wiring, fuel lines, etc.) are hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage or personal injury.
Use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or apply silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges.
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