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| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2017 - 2018 | Hyundai Elantra | Sedan |
The 17 - 18 Hyundai Elantra Sedan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1407 (Part #7WK1407) fits the following vehicles: 2017-2018 Hyundai Elantra. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 17 - 18 Hyundai Elantra Sedan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1407 (Part #7WK1407) fits 2017-2018 Hyundai Elantra models. The 2018 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 17 - 18 Hyundai Elantra Sedan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1407 (Part #7WK1407) is designed to fit the 2017-2018 Hyundai Elantra.
The 17 - 18 Hyundai Elantra Sedan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1407 (Part #7WK1407) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56316 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for the Hyundai Elantra sedan (limited trim only). If your vehicle is a different trim level, body style, or model year, this harness may not be compatible. Check your vehicle's trim designation before purchasing.
The Curt 56316 fits Hyundai Elantra sedan (limited trim only). It is not compatible with other trim levels or body styles.
The Curt 56316 is a Custom Wiring Harness that provides trailer lighting connections for your vehicle. It includes a converter box and a 4-flat connector for attaching a trailer. The harness handles signal circuits (3.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (6.0 amps total).
You will need: a ratchet, 10mm socket, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. These tools are required to remove panels, disconnect connectors, prepare wires, and secure the installation.
The harness includes: custom wiring harness ends (yellow and green wire), white ground wire with ring terminal, black converter box, provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape, 4-flat connector, 4-flat dust cover, and cable ties.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is a required safety step to prevent electrical hazards during the wiring work.
The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required. The installation involves panel removal, wiring, drilling, and electrical connections. If you are not comfortable with these tasks, consult a professional installer.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame to secure the white ground wire using the provided screw. The drilling location should be a flat spot near the taillight, free of rust, dirt, and paint. You may also use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame if one is available nearby.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame near the taillight connector. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Alternatively, you can use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame if one is suitable and nearby.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause overheating and fire.
The harness has three main wires: yellow wire (driver side taillight connection), green wire (passenger side taillight connection), and white wire (ground connection). The black converter box connects to the vehicle battery via a black power wire. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and store it out of the way when not in use.
The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame using the provided ring terminal and screw. Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
The black converter box should be mounted on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. This location keeps the converter box secure and out of the way during normal vehicle operation.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the vehicle. When in use, route it to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent tangling and damage.
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove trunk floor coverings and rear scuff panel. 3. Remove side felt liner push fasteners on the driver side. 4. Locate and separate the vehicle taillight connectors. 5. Insert the harness end with yellow wire between the connectors. 6. Secure the white ground wire to the vehicle frame. 7. Route the harness end with green wire to the passenger side and repeat steps 3–5. 8. Mount the black converter box with double-sided tape. 9. Route the black power wire from the battery (see included CME-PCL-INS sheet). 10. Route and secure the 4-flat connector. 11. Reinstall all removed items and reconnect the battery. 12. Install the 4-flat dust cover.
Locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors behind the taillight housing inside the trunk. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
You must remove: all trunk floor coverings, the rear scuff panel (by pulling out on the bottom and then up), and the side felt liner push fasteners on both the driver and passenger sides. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back of the scuff panel or the locking tabs on the connectors.
After installation, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. The manual does not provide detailed testing procedures beyond these methods.
After installation: 1. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. 3. Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. 4. Ensure all panels are reinstalled and all loose wires are secured with cable ties.
Before drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The drilling area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
Signal circuits are rated for 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated for 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these product ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating.
Verify that all installation steps have been completed correctly. Check that: 1. The negative battery terminal is reconnected. 2. The harness ends (yellow and green wires) are fully inserted into the taillight connectors with locking tabs in place. 3. The white ground wire is securely fastened to the vehicle frame. 4. The black converter box is properly mounted and the black power wire is correctly routed from the battery. 5. All connectors are fully seated and undamaged. Test using a test light or properly wired trailer. If the issue persists, consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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