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2020 - 2024 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport
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| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2024 | Mitsubishi Outlander Sport | — |
The 20 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1994 (Part #7WK1994) fits 2020-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 20 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1994 (Part #7WK1994) is designed to fit the 2020-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport.
The 20 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1994 (Part #7WK1994) fits the following vehicles: 2020-2024 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 20 - 24 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1994 (Part #7WK1994) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56482 is a powered converter wiring harness for SUVs and vans that converts the vehicle's taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with functioning lights to your vehicle so that the trailer lights operate in sync with your vehicle's brake, turn, and running lights.
The Curt 56482 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify which vehicle models, years, or configurations are compatible. Contact the manufacturer or check the product fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The Curt 56482 converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
You will need: Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and panel trim removal tool. The manual also recommends having a fishwire or equivalent (such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) to route wires through blind holes between the bumper and vehicle body.
The kit includes: a black converter box, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, yellow, green, brown, and red wires for taillight signals, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a black 12-gauge power wire, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties, a ground screw, sealant for the grommet, and a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse has been installed.
Step 1 is to locate the vehicle battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process.
Using a trim tool or small flathead screwdriver, remove the taillight trim covers on both sides of the vehicle (the lower side of the trim piece has a groove that allows a pry point). Then use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the taillight fasteners on both sides. Carefully remove the taillight straight back from the vehicle, gently pull out the grommet, and locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside in a safe place and repeat on the other side.
Fishwiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. For the Curt 56482, you drop a fishwire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) down between the bumper cover and vehicle body. From underneath, attach the custom wiring end with the yellow wire to the fishwire using tape and pull it up into the factory taillight connector. If the wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the green wire.
On the driver side of the vehicle, locate a flat spot and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and/or zip ties. The exact location is not specified in the manual; choose a location that is accessible and protected from moisture and damage.
On the driver side, locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint (use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint). Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener, or drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole and use the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes through from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end (with brown and red wires) through. Route the wires out through the grommet opening and through the slit. Insert the custom wiring end between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires.
Route the 4-flat along the rear bumper, using cable ties as needed to secure any loose wires. Mount the 4-flat near the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a grounding point on the vehicle frame. If an existing screw or bolt is not available, you will need to drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Additionally, you must cut a slit in the grommet behind the taillight to route the brown and red wires through. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If an existing grounding point is not available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it before drilling.
Signal circuits (left and right turn): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 7.5 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The power wire from the vehicle battery is 12-gauge (12 GA) or larger. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Yellow wire: Left turn signal. Green wire: Right turn signal. Red wire: Brake signal. Brown wire: Taillight/running light. White wire: Ground. Black wire: Power (positive battery connection).
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Attach the ring terminal of the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Install the 10-amp fuse holder with fuse only after all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse only after all other installation steps are complete.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. Consult the manual or contact the manufacturer for specific instructions on how to ground the red brake wire in your vehicle configuration.
Before drilling or routing wires, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse has been installed. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Once the custom harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to any trailer with functioning lights. The taillights on the vehicle to be towed should function along with the taillights on the vehicle that is powering them. Alternatively, you can use a test light to check for proper function.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion of the connector.
The Curt 56482 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check the product fitment database or contact the manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle model and year.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
First, verify that the 4-flat connector is properly attached to a trailer with functioning lights. Check that all wires are fully inserted into the taillight connectors with locking tabs in place. Ensure the converter box is properly mounted and all connections are secure. Verify that the negative battery terminal has been reconnected and the 10-amp fuse has been installed in the fuse holder. Check for visible damage or loose connections in all wires and connectors. If the issue persists, test the system with a test light to identify which circuit is not functioning.
The grommet sealant may not have been applied properly. Locate the grommet behind the taillight where the brown and red wires pass through. Ensure the grommet is fully reseated and that the provided sealant has been applied to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires. Reapply sealant if necessary to prevent water intrusion.
A blown fuse indicates an electrical overload or short circuit. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Verify that the signal circuits (5.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (7.5 amps total) are not being exceeded. Check all wires and connections for damage, loose connections, or corrosion. Ensure the ground wire is properly connected to a clean, rust-free grounding point on the vehicle frame. If the fuse continues to blow, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or converter box; discontinue use and contact the manufacturer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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