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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2018 | Ford Focus | Hatchback, ST |
The 13-18 Ford Focus Hatchback, ST 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW937 (Part #HBCW937) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2018 Ford Focus. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 13-18 Ford Focus Hatchback, ST 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW937 (Part #HBCW937) is designed to fit the 2013-2018 Ford Focus.
The 13-18 Ford Focus Hatchback, ST 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW937 (Part #HBCW937) fits 2013-2018 Ford Focus models. The 2018 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 13-18 Ford Focus Hatchback, ST 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW937 (Part #HBCW937) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 11158 is designed for 2012-Present Ford Focus in Sedan and Hatchback body styles. It does not fit Focus ST or Focus Electric models. Confirm your vehicle matches these specifications before purchasing.
The CURT 11158 is rated for a minimum of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Check your vehicle's owner manual for the final towing limit.
All non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for information on the 18050 straps.
The CURT 11158 is designed for use with ball mount #D-55001 or #45501. A Euro mount option is also available: #45571 (1-7/8") or #45572 (2" ball).
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, power drill, die grinder, 15/32" drill bit, 6" socket extension, 11/16" socket, 13mm socket, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The installation difficulty is rated as moderate to challenging depending on your experience level. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Yes, drilling is required. You will drill holes in the vehicle frame rails using a 15/32" drill bit. The hitch is used as a template to mark drill locations on both sides before drilling. A power drill and die grinder are needed to enlarge access holes.
Fishwire is a technique used to route the 7/16"-14 carriage bolts and SP7 spacers through enlarged access holes and out the holes drilled in the frame rails. Two 7/16" fishwires are included in the parts kit. The manual references a fishwire diagram for detailed technique guidance.
No, you do not need to remove the exhaust system. You only need to remove the 4 bolts securing the 2 rear exhaust brackets and lower them temporarily. The bolts are returned to the owner. The hitch side plates are then sandwiched between the frame rails and exhaust brackets during final assembly.
Torque all M8 hardware (M8x1.25 hex bolts) to 23 ft-lbs. Torque all 7/16" hardware (7/16"-14 carriage bolts and flange nuts) to 70 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This is especially important after initial installation and before each towing use.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. Using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
You should periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Perform this check before each towing use and at regular intervals during the towing season.
Yes, if your vehicle is a 2012-Present Ford Focus Sedan or Hatchback (excluding ST and Electric models). Check your vehicle specifications before purchasing.
Minimum 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Ratchet, torque wrench, power drill, die grinder, 15/32" drill bit, 6" extension, 11/16" socket, 13mm socket, and safety glasses.
Yes, drilling is required. You will drill holes in the frame rails using a 15/32" drill bit and enlarge access holes with a die grinder.
M8 hardware: 23 ft-lbs. 7/16" hardware: 70 ft-lbs.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If hesitant, contact an authorized CURT installer or call technical support at 877-287-8634.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, Curt part 56140 is designed for Ford Focus Hatchback models. The manual does not specify which model years are supported, so contact Curt technical support at 1-877-287-8634 to confirm your vehicle's year and trim before purchasing.
Curt part 56140 is a T-Connector wiring harness for Ford Focus Hatchback vehicles. It provides a connection point for trailer wiring by integrating with the vehicle's existing taillight wiring on both the driver and passenger sides.
You will need a drill with a 3/32" bit (if drilling a new grounding hole), a screwdriver, and basic hand tools. The manual does not specify whether a professional installer or additional equipment is required. Contact Curt technical support at 1-877-287-8634 if you are unsure about your ability to complete the installation.
Open the rear hatch and remove: all floor covers and foam trays in the rear cargo area, the rear scuff panel (held by 4 plastic fasteners), the felt liner behind the taillights, the plastic wing nuts holding the taillights, and the grommets on both sides of the vehicle. Take care not to damage the taillight alignment tabs when removing them.
You may need to drill one 3/32" hole if a suitable existing grounding point (such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame) is not available near the taillight connector. Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces will not be damaged.
If you need to drill a grounding hole, drill a 3/32" hole in the vehicle's frame near the taillight connector. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and screw provided with the kit.
On the driver side, locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connector. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the T-Connector end with the green wire.
The yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight wiring harness, and the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight wiring harness. These connections allow the trailer wiring to integrate with the vehicle's existing taillight circuits.
The white ground wire provides a ground connection for the T-Connector harness. Secure it to a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame, using the ring terminal and screw provided.
Remove the grommet on both sides of the vehicle and make a small slit from the outside towards the center. Route the T-Connector end with the yellow wire through the opening made by the removed driver-side grommet. Route the T-Connector end with the green wire through the opening made by the removed passenger-side grommet. Replace each grommet, routing the wires through the slit made in the removal step.
The black power wire routes from the vehicle's battery to the converter box. The manual references the CME-PCL-INS instruction sheet for detailed routing and connection instructions. Review that sheet for the specific battery connection point and routing path.
Adhere the black converter box behind the felt trunk liner in the vehicle's rear cargo area using the double-sided tape provided with the kit.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat wire and store it on the driver side in an out-of-the-way location in the rear cargo area. Route it out of the hatch only when the trailer is in use.
After completing all installation steps, reinstall all items that were removed during installation, including floor covers, foam trays, rear scuff panel, taillights, and grommets.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface will not be damaged. Drilling into hidden components can cause damage and/or personal injury.
When removing the taillights, pull them out carefully and take care not to damage the alignment tabs. Damaged alignment tabs may prevent proper taillight reinstallation or function.
When separating the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors, take care not to damage the locking tabs. Damaged locking tabs may prevent proper connector seating and cause electrical issues.
Curt 56140 is designed for Ford Focus Hatchback models. Confirm your vehicle's year and trim with Curt technical support at 1-877-287-8634 before purchasing.
You may need to drill one 3/32" hole for the ground wire if an existing grounding point is not available. Before drilling, verify that hidden items will not be damaged.
You will need a drill with a 3/32" bit (if drilling), a screwdriver, and basic hand tools. Contact Curt technical support at 1-877-287-8634 if you need guidance on installation difficulty.
Remove rear floor covers, foam trays, rear scuff panel (4 plastic fasteners), felt liner, taillights (plastic wing nuts), and grommets on both sides. Take care not to damage taillight alignment tabs.
Locate the taillight wiring harness connector on each side. Separate the connectors without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end (yellow wire on driver side, green wire on passenger side) between the separated connectors and fully seat with locking tabs in place.
Adhere the black converter box behind the felt trunk liner in the rear cargo area using the provided double-sided tape.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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