19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK807CURTOriginal price was $261.80. Current price is $239.85.In Stock
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2019 - 2024 Ford Edge
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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 - 2024 | Ford Edge | — |
The 19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK808 (Part #7WK808) fits the following vehicles: 2019-2024 Ford Edge. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK808 (Part #7WK808) fits 2019-2024 Ford Edge models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK808 (Part #7WK808) is designed to fit the 2019-2024 Ford Edge.
The 19 - 24 Ford Edge CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK808 (Part #7WK808) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56437 is a powered converter harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts the vehicle's factory taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with proper lighting control. The system includes a converter box that processes brake, turn signal, and taillight signals from your vehicle's rear lights.
The CURT 56437 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm it has a 12-volt negative ground system, or contact the vehicle manufacturer. The wiring locations shown in the manual are representative; actual locations may vary by vehicle.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It will not function on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-25, wire stripper, small flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and flathead screwdriver. You will also need a pry tool (not listed but referenced in Steps 3 and 4) and a fish wire or equivalent (cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) to route wires through blind holes.
The kit includes: a black converter box, a T-connector with yellow wire, a green wire for passenger-side routing, a black power wire, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a 4-flat dust cover, zip ties for securing loose wires, and a 15-amp fuse holder with fuse. Butt connectors are referenced in the wiring diagram.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the harness.
The installation is rated as moderate difficulty. The manual states that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required. All steps must be followed to ensure the product functions properly. No specific installation time is provided.
Step 1 is to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side in the engine compartment and disconnect the negative terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation.
Using a pry tool and being careful not to dent or scratch the vehicle, loosen the taillight and pull rearward to remove. Behind the taillight, locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Disconnect the housing by releasing the locking tabs. Set the taillight to the side. Repeat this process on both the driver and passenger sides.
Fish wire is used to push or pull the electrical harness through blind holes (holes you cannot see through). You insert the fish wire through the blind hole, locate it on the other side, use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire, and pull it back up. Fish wire can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. If the wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist it to loosen it.
Locate a flat clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Mounting the box in a protected area is critical—failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
You need to locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire from being damaged and causing electrical faults or fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Signal circuits (turn signals): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter. The manual specifies routing 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location.
The wire colors are: Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn signal, Brown = Taillight. These colors correspond to the trailer lighting functions controlled by the converter.
On the driver side under the vehicle, find the fish wire and secure the T-connector end with the yellow wire to it. Pull the T-connector end up to the taillight pocket. Install the connector onto the factory wiring to keep it from falling down. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the green wire to the passenger side, up and out of the way. Use the fish wire method (Step 5) to route the green wire to the passenger-side taillight pocket, similar to how the yellow wire is routed on the driver side.
Route the trailer 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and mount it near the hitch. Secure any loose wires with the provided zip ties.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the last page of the manual (page 5). The black wire connects to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The wire must be 12 GA or larger and routed to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the provided screw. Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If necessary, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the ground wire.
Before drilling or routing wires, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a pry tool carefully to avoid denting or scratching the vehicle. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Reinstall all items removed during installation and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
After installation is complete: (1) Verify the harness is functioning using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. (2) Reinstall all items removed during installation. (3) Reconnect the negative battery terminal. (4) Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. (5) Install the 15-amp fuse in the fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. For more detailed maintenance information, contact CURT Group or check the product warranty information at warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The CURT 56437 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your system type, or contact the vehicle manufacturer. Wiring locations are representative and may vary by vehicle.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Fasten the wire away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all installation steps are complete and before testing.
Drilling is optional. You only need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing screw with nut is available for grounding the converter box. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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