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| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | T1,T2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Battery-Powered | No |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2023 | Ford F-150 | With factory receiver |
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 With factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK852 (Part #7WK852) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2023 Ford F-150. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 21 - 23 Ford F-150 With factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK852 (Part #7WK852) is designed to fit the 2021-2023 Ford F-150.
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 With factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK852 (Part #7WK852) fits 2021-2023 Ford F-150 models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 With factory receiver CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK852 (Part #7WK852) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56486 is a powered converter wiring harness that converts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to power a trailer's lights using your truck's existing taillight circuits. The system includes a converter box, custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), and a 4-flat connector for trailer attachment.
The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It is not compatible with positive ground or 24-volt systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your truck uses a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, 8mm socket, socket extension, drill, 3/32" drill bit, fish wire (or equivalent such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string), and a cutting tool. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow, green, red, brown), white ground wire with ring terminal, 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a ground screw, and a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the passenger side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the 10-amp fuse has been installed.
Yes. You must remove both taillights to access the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors. Open the tailgate, use an 8mm socket to remove the two bolts securing each taillight, then carefully remove the taillight straight back from the vehicle. Set them aside in a safe place.
Use fish wire to pull the harness through the vehicle cavity. Insert fish wire through the blind hole where the taillight was removed and locate it on the other side. Tape the custom wiring harness (starting with the yellow wire on the driver side) to the fish wire and pull it back up into the taillight opening. If the harness gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
After routing the custom wiring harness through the vehicle cavity using fish wire, attach it to the vehicle taillight harness. The connectors on the custom harness are similar to those on the vehicle's taillight housing. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors from the housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs, then connect the custom harness.
Route the 4-flat connector along the rear bumper using cable ties as needed to secure any loose wires. Mount the 4-flat near the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling is required only for the ground wire connection. You must locate a grounding point on the driver side frame—either an existing screw or bolt, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable point exists. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection on the driver side frame. This hole is used to secure the white ground wire with ring terminal using the provided ground screw. Before drilling, ensure the area is free from rust, dirt and paint, and check for hidden items behind or under the surface.
Signal circuits (left and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use an 8mm socket with a ratchet to remove the two bolts securing each taillight in place. Open the tailgate before removing the bolts.
Yellow wire = left turn signal; Green wire = right turn signal; Red wire = brake signal; Brown wire = taillight (running lights). The white wire is the ground connection. These colour-coded wires connect to the vehicle's taillight harness and the converter box to route signals to the 4-flat trailer connector.
For trucks, the wiring locations are: T1 = behind driver side taillight housing; T2 = behind passenger side taillight housing; T3 = behind driver side rear bumper; T4 = behind center of rear bumper fascia; T5 = behind passenger side rear bumper. The manual notes that a representative vehicle is shown and actual locations may vary.
Route a 12-gauge or larger wire from the converter to the positive battery terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Install the 10-amp fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Install a 10-amp maximum fuse in the fuse holder provided. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with 10-amp max. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Protect the power wire from sharp edges using an existing grommet, adding a grommet, or using silicone when passing through sheet metal. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from spray and debris from rear wheels and road.
After installation, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights. The taillights on the vehicle to be towed should function along with the taillights on the vehicle that is powering them. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) are working correctly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown in the manual. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the system by connecting a trailer with functioning lights to verify all circuits work properly.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues. Check the converter box mounting to ensure it remains secure and in a protected area away from spray and debris.
The Curt 56486 is designed for trucks with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle uses this system by checking your owner's manual or contacting the vehicle manufacturer. The manual does not specify vehicle model years, bed lengths, or cab styles, so contact Curt Manufacturing or your dealer for fitment confirmation.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the 10-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling is required only for the ground wire connection. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole on the driver side frame if no existing bolt or screw is available. Check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install it after all other steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the converter to the battery. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components, and protect it from sharp edges using a grommet or silicone.
If the harness gets hung up on something while being pulled through, stop pulling. Push the fish wire back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Then try pulling again. This technique helps free the harness from any obstructions inside the cavity.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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