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2018 - 2022 Toyota C-HR
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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2018 - 2022 Toyota C-HR. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Toyota Corolla and Toyota C-HR (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Toyota Corolla Cross and C-HR (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2022 | Toyota C-HR | — |
The 18 - 22 Toyota C-HR Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11567 (Part #CHW-2849) fits 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 18 - 22 Toyota C-HR Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11567 (Part #CHW-2849) is designed to fit the 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR.
The 18 - 22 Toyota C-HR Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11567 (Part #CHW-2849) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 18 - 22 Toyota C-HR Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11567 (Part #CHW-2849) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, if you have a 2018 or newer Toyota C-HR or Toyota Corolla Hatchback. This hitch is designed specifically for these models.
The hitch has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm sockets, a torque wrench, a flat head screwdriver, a hammer, and safety glasses. No power tools are required.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes and weldnuts on the vehicle's rear frame.
Yes. You must remove the bumper beam assembly to install this hitch. The installation process requires removing underbody panels, the lower rear fascia, and the bumper beam. The bumper beam is then reattached as part of the hitch assembly.
Two people may be required to ease installation, though the manual does not state this is mandatory. The installation is rated as 'Challenging' difficulty.
All M8 fasteners (part 10-10268) must be torqued to 23 lb-ft.
The hitch includes 8 M8x1.25x25 bolts, grade CL10.9, zinc-plated (part 10-10268). These fasteners attach the hitch to the existing weldnuts on the rear face of the vehicle cabin.
Yes. In step 3, you must use a hammer to flatten the tabs on the end of the bumper beam assembly so they are flush before raising the hitch into position.
Leave the fasteners loose initially. In step 4, loosely install the supplied fasteners with a 13mm socket. Only after the hitch is positioned should you torque all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft in step 5.
Use a 12mm socket to remove the 8 bolts attaching the bumper assembly to the rear face of the cabin.
Use a 13mm socket to install the supplied M8 fasteners.
Remove 14 push pin fasteners and 3 twist-type fasteners attaching the 2 underbody panels to the rear of the vehicle. Also locate and remove the 6 blue fascia clips holding the lower bumper fascia to the rear bumper body panel.
Remove the center portion of the rear bumper fascia by removing the lowest screw from each side of the rear of the bumper cover, then push out the tabs on the back. There are 2 wire harness mounting clips on the top that also need to be removed.
Yes. After removing the bumper assembly in step 2, return the original flange bolts to the vehicle owner.
After torquing all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft, reinstall the lower bumper fascia in reverse order of removal (step 6), then reinstall any remaining underbody panels removed in step 1 (step 7).
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT stabilizing straps part 18050. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Although the hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit, which must be observed.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
The CURT 11567 is designed for use with ballmount part 45521. Two ball options are available: part 45571 (1 7/8" ball) and part 45572 (2" ball).
Yes. This product complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Retorque all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft. The manual recommends periodically checking the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners remain tight and all structural components are sound.
Part 56517 is a custom wiring harness with powered converter manufactured by Curt Manufacturing. It is designed to provide trailer lighting control for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The system converts vehicle taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) to control a trailer's lighting functions via a 4-flat connector.
The 56517 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes or models. Wiring locations vary by vehicle; the manual defines seven possible locations (P1–P7) for taillight housings and rear bumper areas. Contact the manufacturer or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Using it on a 24-volt system or positive ground system will not function correctly and may cause damage.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with connectors (yellow, green, white, black, red, and brown wires), a powered converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a ground screw, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, and a ring terminal for battery connection. A 15-amp fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse has been installed.
Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight fasteners on the driver side. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts in the taillight trim. Pull the taillight straight back toward the rear of the vehicle. Locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors from it, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Fishwiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a fish wire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Ensure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Route a fish wire down between the bumper cover in the further rear opening of the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle on the driver side. Attach the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull up to the factory harness connector. Connect the custom harness to the factory harness.
Route the housing with the green wire above the bumper mount and along the back side of the bumper to the passenger side. Secure it with zip ties as needed along the bumper.
Yes. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4 on the passenger side of the vehicle to connect the passenger-side taillight to the harness.
You may use an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame as a grounding point, or you may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable existing fastener is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Route a 12 GA wire or larger from the vehicle battery location to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Connect the black power wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be protected by a 15-amp fuse (max), which should be installed after all other steps are complete. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire.
The harness uses the following wire colors: yellow for left turn signal, green for right turn signal, red for brake signal, brown for taillight (running lights), and white for ground. These colors correspond to standard trailer lighting functions.
The signal circuits (left turn and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. The tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse has been installed.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before considering the installation complete.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Reinstall all items removed during installation.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
The 56517 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground systems. Wiring locations vary by vehicle. Consult the manufacturer or a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make and model before purchasing.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire connection if no existing fastener is available on the vehicle frame. A 3/32" pilot hole is drilled if needed. Check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA wire or larger for the battery connection. Route it to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components, and protect it with a grommet or silicone when passing through sheet metal.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from the rear wheels using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount it in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire and installing the 15-amp fuse, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer to verify proper operation.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, try pushing back down, wiggling it around, or twisting the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Ensure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before attempting to pull it through.
Verify that the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Ensure the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the battery with the ring terminal, the 15-amp fuse is installed, the white ground wire is securely connected to the vehicle frame, and all factory harness connectors are properly seated and not damaged. Check that the negative battery terminal has been reconnected.
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