17 - 25 Audi Q7 CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK69CURTOriginal price was $239.80. Current price is $214.85.In Stock
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2014 - 2017 Audi SQ5
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| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | PWM (Stop/Tail) |
| Electrical System Type | PWM |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2017 | Audi SQ5 | — |
Yes, the 14 - 17 Audi SQ5 CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK74 (Part #7WK74) is designed to fit the 2014-2017 Audi SQ5.
The 14 - 17 Audi SQ5 CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK74 (Part #7WK74) fits 2014-2017 Audi SQ5 models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 14 - 17 Audi SQ5 CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK74 (Part #7WK74) fits the following vehicles: 2014-2017 Audi SQ5. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 14 - 17 Audi SQ5 CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK74 (Part #7WK74) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56404 is a custom trailer light harness designed for SUVs and Vans with rear lift gates. It integrates with the vehicle's factory taillight system to provide trailer lighting control. The harness connects to the vehicle's electrical system and outputs a 4-flat trailer connector. It requires a powered converter module to function and must be used on 12-volt negative ground systems only.
The CURT 56404 is designed for SUVs and Vans with rear lift gates. The harness uses wiring locations S9 and S10, which are behind the driver and passenger side rear access panels. Verify your vehicle has these access panels and a rear lift gate. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific make and model.
The CURT 56404 must be used only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The converter system is designed specifically for this configuration and will not function on positive ground or other voltage systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bits (T-20 and T-15), wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, electrical tape, and flathead screwdriver. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The manual shows a Hardware Photo on page 1 but does not itemize the contents. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow, green, and black wires; a powered converter module; a 4-flat connector; cable ties; a 4-flat dust cover; a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse; double-sided tape for converter mounting; a ring terminal for ground connection; and a screw for ground attachment. Verify the contents of your kit match the Hardware Photo.
Yes. The negative battery terminal must be disconnected before beginning installation. In Step 2, lift the floor panel and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery when completing the installation. The negative battery cable must also be disconnected before wiring the power wire to the converter.
In Step 1, open the rear lift gate and remove: all trunk floor coverings, the trunk storage tray, the sub-woofer housing (disconnect it first), and the spare tire (loosen the tie-down first). Set these items aside. Additional panels and trim will be removed during subsequent steps, but these are the initial removals required to access the battery and wiring routes.
In Step 10, open the battery compartment and locate a spot to mount the converter close enough to connect the power and ground wires. The converter is mounted using the provided double-sided tape. Do not connect the power and ground wires at this point; complete all other installation steps first.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Remove trunk items and disconnect battery; (2) Remove rear scuff panel and disconnect latch sensor; (3) Remove taillight access panels and fasteners; (4) Remove rear hatch trim and disconnect lift gate light and hatch close connectors; (5) Remove driver-side trim cover and access panel; (6) Remove weather stripping and side wall trim; (7) Mount converter near battery; (8) Route custom wiring harness from floor through side panels to lift gate hinge and to taillight connectors; (9) Connect custom wiring to driver-side taillight with yellow wire between factory harness; (10) Connect custom wiring with green wire to passenger-side taillight; (11) Reinstall all panels and connectors; (12) Route black power wire from battery to converter; (13) Connect ground wire; (14) Install fuse and test; (15) Reconnect negative battery terminal.
In Step 12, disconnect the driver-side factory wiring and install the custom wiring end with the yellow wire in between the factory harness. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs. In Step 13, route the custom wiring with the green wire to the passenger-side taillight connectors and repeat the same process. The factory connectors remain in place; the custom harness wires are inserted between the factory harness and the taillight.
In Step 11, route the custom wiring ends along the floor to the driver-side access panel and up the side wall behind the vehicle side trim panels, along the removed weather stripping to the lift gate hinge. Then route the custom wiring along the lift gate hinge and out under the removed lift gate trim panel to the driver-side taillight connectors. Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires while routing. When not in use, the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk.
The custom wiring harness contains the following signal wires: Yellow = Left turn signal; Green = Right turn signal; Red = Brake signal; Brown = Taillight (running lights). The harness also includes a black power wire that connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal and a white ground wire that connects to the vehicle body. These colors match standard trailer lighting conventions.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Connect the black wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Install the fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse after all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch hole to mount the ground connection. Ensure the ground connection is secure and makes good contact with the vehicle body.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. The fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 15-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits (taillight): 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch hole to mount the ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body. Use the screw provided to secure the connection.
The harness will not function until all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The vehicle will not have functionality of taillights when the hatch is open. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. If the connectors and panels are not replaced, the taillight will not function and an error message will be shown on the vehicle dash display.
Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Ensure all panels are reinstalled, all connectors are plugged in, and the hatch is closed before testing. If the harness does not function, check that all connections are secure and the fuse is properly installed.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the harness, converter, power wire, ground connection, and all panel connections regularly. Tighten any loose connections and replace damaged wires or connectors immediately.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as Moderate. The installation involves removing multiple interior trim panels, routing wiring through the vehicle, making electrical connections, and drilling a hole for the ground wire. While the manual provides detailed step-by-step instructions, the complexity and the need for proper tools suggest that professional installation may be beneficial. Consult with a qualified installer if you are unsure about any step.
The CURT 56404 is designed for SUVs and vans with rear lift gates and uses wiring locations S9 and S10 (behind driver and passenger rear access panels). Verify your vehicle has these access panels and a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Contact CURT or your vehicle manufacturer to confirm fitment for your specific make and model.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. The negative battery cable must also be disconnected before wiring the power wire to the converter. Reconnect it after all other installation steps are complete.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding 15 amps can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Drilling may be required. You will need to drill a 3/32-inch hole for the ground wire connection to the vehicle body if an existing hole is not available. No other drilling is specified in the installation steps.
No. The harness will not function until all panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. If panels are not replaced, the taillight will not function and an error message will appear on the vehicle dash display.
First, verify that all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The harness will not function if the hatch is open or if panels are not replaced. Check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Verify that the 12-volt power wire is connected to the converter and the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal. Confirm that the fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse is properly installed. Test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. If the harness still does not function, check that all wiring connections are secure and that the yellow wire is properly inserted between the factory harness at the driver-side taillight and the green wire is properly connected at the passenger-side taillight.
An error message on the vehicle dash display indicates that the connectors and panels have not been properly reinstalled. Verify that all removed panels are reinstalled, all connectors (including the latch sensor and lift gate light connectors) are plugged in, and the vehicle hatch is closed. The harness will not function until all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the hatch is closed. If the error persists after reinstalling all panels and connectors, check that the custom wiring is properly connected to the factory taillight harness.
Yes, this is normal and expected behavior. The harness will not function when the hatch is open. The vehicle will not have functionality of taillights when the hatch is open. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. This is by design to prevent electrical issues when the hatch is open.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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