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CURT
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2022 - 2023 Jeep Compass
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| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| 29 | Pin |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2023 | Jeep Compass | — |
The 22 - 23 JEEP Compass CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1540 (Part #7WK1540) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2023 Jeep Compass. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22 - 23 JEEP Compass CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1540 (Part #7WK1540) is designed to fit the 2022-2023 Jeep Compass.
The 22 - 23 JEEP Compass CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1540 (Part #7WK1540) fits 2022-2023 Jeep Compass models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22 - 23 JEEP Compass CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1540 (Part #7WK1540) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56472 is a powered converter wiring harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts vehicle taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) into a 4-flat trailer connector format. The system includes a converter box that processes these signals and routes them through custom wiring harnesses to the rear of the vehicle.
No. The Curt 56472 is designed specifically for SUVs and vans and must be used only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle's electrical system before purchasing. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years, so contact the manufacturer or consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
You will need: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-27, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape. The manual also recommends an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint from the grounding point, and you may need a drill with a 3/32" bit if a grounding point does not already exist on your vehicle frame.
The kit includes: custom wiring harnesses with yellow and green wire housings, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, double-sided tape, zip ties, cable ties, a fuse holder with 10-amp maximum fuse, and butt connectors. Fish wire is not included but can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it fastened down and away from the battery throughout the installation process. This is a required safety step to prevent electrical shock and short circuits.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as 'Easy' based on time and effort involved. However, the actual difficulty may vary depending on your expertise level, your vehicle's condition, and whether you have the proper tools and equipment. The installation involves disconnecting the battery, removing taillights, routing wiring through the vehicle, drilling (if necessary), and making electrical connections. If you are not comfortable with these tasks, professional installation is recommended.
Fish wire is a tool used to push or pull electrical wire through a blind hole (a hole you cannot see through). For the Curt 56472, you route fish wire down between the bumper cover and vehicle body, then use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull it back up. Fish wire can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. If the harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it.
The yellow wire housing connects to the driver side taillight. The green wire housing routes above the bumper mount and along the bumper to the passenger side, then above the passenger-side bumper mount. Both housings attach to the vehicle factory wiring and connect to the taillights. Zip ties are used to secure the green wire housing along the bumper as needed.
1. Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight trim cover. 2. Use a flathead screwdriver to open the taillight fastener covers. 3. Use a T-27 Torx bit to remove the screws (be careful not to lose them between the trim and taillight, as fasteners could be above the bumper or fall through to the floor). 4. Pull the taillight straight back. 5. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 6. Set the taillight aside. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
Not necessarily. On the driver side, locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame to use as a grounding point. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you need to drill a grounding point for the white ground wire, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint before drilling. Use an abrasive pad or paper to clean the area.
The Curt 56472 has the following electrical ratings: Signal circuits (left turn and right turn) are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger to route from the converter to the vehicle battery. The manual specifies '12 GA wire or larger' for the power connection. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter uses the following wire colors: Green for right turn signal, Red for brake, Yellow for left turn signal, and Brown for tail/running lights. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal. These colors are standard for the converter system and match the trailer light signal functions.
When passing the 12 GA power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being damaged, which could cause electrical shorts or fire.
Follow these safety precautions: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it down and away from the battery. (2) Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a ground short, sparks, and/or electrical shocks. (3) Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. (4) Route the 12 GA power wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. (5) Protect the power wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal. (6) Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating.
After installation, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any vehicle with functioning trailer lights. The taillights on the tow vehicle should function along with the taillights on the towing vehicle. You can also test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. Install the 10-amp fuse only after all other installation steps are complete and testing is ready to begin.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the wiring harness, converter box, ground connection, and battery connection regularly. If you notice any damaged wires, loose connectors, or corrosion, address the issue immediately to prevent electrical failure or fire.
The Curt 56472 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Specific vehicle models and years are not listed in the manual. Contact the manufacturer or consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm compatibility.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it fastened down and away from the battery throughout the process. This is required for safety.
Drilling is not always required. You can use an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame as a grounding point. If no existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under the surface.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed 10 amps.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger to connect the converter to the vehicle battery. Route the wire to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Signal circuits (turn signals) are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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