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2012 - 2017 Volkswagen Tiguan
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| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.5 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2017 | Volkswagen Tiguan | — |
The 12 - 17 Volkswagen Tiguan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2519 (Part #7WK2519) fits 2012-2017 Volkswagen Tiguan models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 12 - 17 Volkswagen Tiguan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2519 (Part #7WK2519) is designed to fit the 2012-2017 Volkswagen Tiguan.
The 12 - 17 Volkswagen Tiguan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2519 (Part #7WK2519) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2017 Volkswagen Tiguan. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 12 - 17 Volkswagen Tiguan CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2519 (Part #7WK2519) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56422 is a powered converter lead (wiring harness) designed for SUVs and vans. It converts factory taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with integrated lighting. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded leads (green for right turn, yellow for left turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), a 12 GA power wire, ground wire with ring terminal, fuse holder, cable ties, double-sided tape, and a 4-flat dust cover.
The CURT 56422 is designed for SUVs and vans with factory taillights. It works only on 12-volt negative ground systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your system is 12-volt negative ground. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years, so contact CURT or your installer to verify fitment for your exact vehicle.
No. The CURT 56422 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, socket extension, 1/4" and 10mm sockets, panel trim removal tool, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, Phillips screwdriver, Torx bits (T-15, T-20, T-25), and 3mm Allen wrench. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes: powered converter box, wiring harness with color-coded leads (green for right turn, yellow for left turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), 12 GA black power wire with ring terminal for battery connection, white ground wire with ring terminal, fuse holder with 15-amp fuse, cable ties, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, 4-flat dust cover, and a ground screw (if drilling is not used).
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the harness.
Open the vehicle hatch and remove all trunk floor coverings to expose the spare tire. Remove the spare tire by loosening the spare tire hold down. Remove the foam cubbies by pulling straight up and sliding out. This provides access to the interior panels and wiring locations needed for installation.
1. Using a 3mm Allen wrench, remove fasteners securing the rear scuff panel. Remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up, taking care not to damage alignment tabs. 2. Using a T-15 Torx bit, remove two screws securing the side panel just below the scuff plate. 3. Using a T-20 Torx bit, remove the screw securing cargo tie downs on both sides. 4. Remove both interior side panels (locks turn 90 degrees) and set all items aside. Repeat on the other side.
1. Remove the taillight trim cover using a panel trim removal tool, taking care not to damage clips. 2. Using a T-25 Torx bit, remove the two taillight fasteners and set aside. 3. Remove the taillight by pulling back on the red locking tab and pressing down on the top side tab. Take care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat on the other side.
On the passenger side, route the green wire to the passenger-side taillight. Insert the harness into the factory wiring and connect to the taillight. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the driver side using the wiring end with the yellow wire. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere the box. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal to the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. You may need to run the power wire from the bottom of the trunk pan through the rubber grommet. Use a drill bit the same size as the wire and feed through the opening. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Route the yellow wire along the body just below the skid plate to the driver side. Route the green wire to the passenger-side taillight. Both wires connect to the factory taillight connectors. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it now. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Before using the system, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire connection. If no existing screw or bolt is available as a grounding point on the vehicle frame, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint. You may also need to drill a hole the same size as the power wire to feed it through the rubber grommet at the trunk pan, but an existing grommet may be available. Always check for miscellaneous items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
If an existing fastener is not available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it before securing the white ground wire with its ring terminal.
Signal circuits (turn signals): 5.5 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Green wire: right turn signal. Yellow wire: left turn signal. Red wire: brake signal. Brown wire: taillight (running light). Black wire: 12-volt positive power from battery. White wire: ground connection to vehicle frame.
The CURT 56422 uses a 12 GA (12-gauge) black power wire or larger. This wire connects from the vehicle battery positive terminal to the converter box. The wire must be protected with a 15-amp fuse (maximum) installed in the fuse holder provided.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse in the provided fuse holder after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use the ring terminal on the black power wire to connect directly to the positive (+) battery terminal. The ring terminal should be secured to the battery post. The battery connection must be protected with a 15-amp fuse (maximum) installed in the provided fuse holder. Do not connect the fuse until all other installation steps are complete.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. This means the red brake wire should be connected to the vehicle ground (frame or chassis) rather than to a brake signal source.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Protect the power wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal by using an existing grommet, adding a grommet, or using silicone. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
After completing all installation steps and reconnecting the negative battery terminal, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (turn signals, brake, and taillight) are working correctly before towing.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the converter box mounting, ground wire connection, power wire routing, and all harness connections regularly, especially before towing.
The CURT 56422 is designed for SUVs and vans with factory taillights and 12-volt negative ground systems. Verify your vehicle is 12-volt negative ground in your owner's manual. Contact CURT or your installer to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle model and year.
Use a 15-amp maximum fuse in the provided fuse holder. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating.
The power wire is 12 GA (12-gauge) or larger. It connects from the vehicle battery positive terminal to the converter box and must be protected with a 15-amp fuse.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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