Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
2025 - 2026 Ford Explorer
Confirmed to Fit
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2025 - 2026 Ford Explorer. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 6,000 lbs. GTW and 600 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Ford Taurus, Ford Explorer and Lincoln MKS (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2025 - 2026 | Ford Explorer | — |
The 20 - 24 Ford Explorer Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13438 (Part #CHW-984) fits 2020-2024 Ford Explorer models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 20 - 24 Ford Explorer Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13438 (Part #CHW-984) is designed to fit the 2020-2024 Ford Explorer.
The 20 - 24 Ford Explorer Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13438 (Part #CHW-984) fits the following vehicles: 2020-2024 Ford Explorer. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 20 - 24 Ford Explorer Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13438 (Part #CHW-984) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Lincoln Aviator and Ford Explorer SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
The CURT 13438 is rated for a maximum of 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun. Using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware to route fasteners through existing access holes and mounting holes on the frame.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. The trim diagram shows approximate dimensions of 4.75" and 3.5". All dimensions are approximate, so you must confirm fit prior to trimming. You must also remove the heat shield and wheel well fasteners to access the installation area.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on the outside of each frame rail using a 10mm socket, and remove two exhaust isolator hangers using the Rubber Isolator Removal Diagram as reference. You must support the exhaust to avoid damage during this process.
If an underbody panel is present, you must remove it by removing eight fasteners using a 10mm socket and four plastic fasteners. Set the panel aside for reinstallation after the hitch is installed.
Remove the M16 bumper bolt in the frame on each side using a 21mm socket. Return these bolts to the vehicle owner—they are not part of the hitch installation.
Fishwire two 1/2" carriage bolts and two CM-SP6 spacers into the access hole and out the mounting holes on each side. Do not reinstall the rearward most frame rail nut. Reinstall the trimmed heat shield after fishwiring the hardware.
Torque the 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Torque the M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Reinstall vehicle components using steps 1–5 in reverse order. This means reinstalling the M16 bumper bolts, wheel well fasteners and heat shield, exhaust isolator hangers and exhaust fasteners, and finally the underbody panel if it was present.
If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, to avoid damaging the kick sensor while trimming. Replacement rivets are included in the hardware kit. When raising the hitch into position, it will be positioned between the upper and lower kick sensor wires.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer loads applied to this product must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
The kit includes: four 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/4" grade 8 carriage bolts (10-10278), four serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 (20-00062), four 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP6), four 1/2" fishwire (1_2 FISHWIRE), four M6 black nylon rivets (10-10401), two M16x2 35mm class 10.9 hex cap screws (10-10403), and two M16 flat washers (30-00185).
When trimming the fascia and wire track using aviation shears, move the sensor wire out of the wire track to avoid cutting it. If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, before trimming to avoid damaging the kick sensor.
Yes, the CURT 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs.
The CURT 13438 is rated for 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware through existing frame access holes.
Yes, you must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. Approximate trim dimensions are 4.75" and 3.5", but you must confirm fit prior to trimming.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs and M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on each side using a 10mm socket and remove two exhaust isolator hangers. Support the exhaust to avoid damage.
Yes, the Curt 56093 wiring harness is designed for Ford Taurus. The installation manual provides specific steps (Steps 1A–8A) for Taurus models, including battery location on the driver side of the engine compartment and taillight connector access through the trunk.
Yes, the Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Explorer 10th generation models. However, installation steps differ by VIN: 10th VIN B, C, or D models use Steps 1B–8B; 10th VIN L models use Steps 1C–8C. The main difference is battery location: VIN B/C/D have the battery on the driver side; VIN L has the battery on the passenger side under a cover.
The Curt 56093 is designed for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your system is 12-volt negative ground before installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, paint marker, 8mm socket, pliers, wire stripper, electrical tape, socket extension, cutting tool, and heat gun. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. For Taurus and Explorer (VIN B, C, D), the battery is located on the driver side of the engine compartment. For Explorer (VIN L), the battery is on the passenger side under a cover—push both tabs on the cover towards the rear and lift to access it. Fasten the disconnected negative wire down and away from the battery during installation.
The installation is rated as Easy. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
On a Taurus, the taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the felt trunk liner. Pull back the felt liner after removing the three plastic fasteners securing it with a panel trim removal tool. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them from the taillight housing carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
On Explorer 10th generation models, the taillight housing is accessed by loosening the side wall panels with a panel trim removal tool, starting at the floor and working up to the headliner. Pull back the panel to locate the taillight housing and connectors. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side with the green wire.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing grounding point is not available. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before installing the provided screw with the white ground wire ring terminal.
The wiring harness includes: Yellow wire (left turn signal), Green wire (right turn signal), Red wire (brake), Brown wire (taillight), White wire (ground), and Black wire (power). The yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connector, and the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Route the green wire along the back of the vehicle under the scuff plate. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. The green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the provided screw. Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the connection.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the specific lamp load rating of your vehicle. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before completing the final installation steps.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate. (3) Remove felt trunk liner fasteners. (4) Connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal on the driver side and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Remove cargo hold-down covers and side panel fasteners. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Locate the battery on the passenger side under a cover; push both tabs towards the rear and lift to access it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Unthread the cargo net hold-down screw with pliers, loosen the cargo hook fastener cover, and remove the cargo hook with an 8mm socket on both sides. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Use a panel trim removal tool to remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. The scuff panel is accessed after opening the tailgate and removing floor coverings.
The battery on Explorer 10th VIN L is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment under a cover. Push both tabs on the cover towards the rear of the vehicle and lift to remove the cover and access the battery.
For Explorer 10th VIN L, use pliers to unthread the screw behind the cargo net hold-down. Use a panel trim removal tool to loosen the cargo hook fastener cover. Use an 8mm socket to remove the cargo hook. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
The Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Taurus and Ford Explorer 10th generation (VIN B, C, D, or L). Confirm your vehicle model and year match before purchasing. It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system.
You need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, ratchet, 8mm socket, pliers, cutting tool, heat gun, electrical tape, paint marker, and socket extension. A 3/32" drill bit is needed if drilling for the ground wire.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and fasten it away from the battery. Reconnect it after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. If no suitable existing grounding point is available near the taillight connector, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer before completing final installation steps.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover when not in use to prevent corrosion.
First, verify the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the battery with the correct fuse (10-amp maximum) installed. Check that all wire connections at the taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Ensure the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free grounding point. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm proper operation.
The manual states that the vehicle's taillight connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. If they do not match, verify you have the correct vehicle model and year (Taurus or Explorer 10th generation with correct VIN). Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a Curt representative if connectors are incompatible.
The manual warns to take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the taillight connectors. If the tabs are damaged, the connectors may not stay fully inserted, which could cause the harness to malfunction. Consult the vehicle manufacturer about replacement connector housings or contact Curt for guidance on repair options.
On Sale Today
Original price was $434.90. Current price is $303.98.You save $130.92 (30%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
FREE ShippingFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Sun, Aug 9 - Wed, Aug 12
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
Total for 4 items:
$408.98$542.41
No reviews have been added for this product.