2006-2009 Mitsubishi Raider Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install KitTekonsha$209.05Out of Stock
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2006 - 2009 Ford Fusion
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 - 2009 | Ford Fusion | — |
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring adapter that connects between your vehicle's taillight connectors and a trailer. It allows you to connect a trailer's electrical system to your vehicle's lighting circuits without permanently modifying the vehicle's wiring. The adapter includes a black box that mounts in the trunk and routes power from the battery through a fused connection to the trailer lights.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with this T-Connector. Contact the manufacturer or your retailer with your vehicle's year, make, and model to confirm fitment before purchasing.
No. The T-Connector requires a vehicle with a rear cargo area that has accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the T-Connector adapter ends. The vehicle's wiring must be located inside the rear cargo area and accessible by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. Not all vehicles meet these requirements.
You will need: a drill with a 3/32" drill bit, a Phillips head screwdriver, a 10mm socket and ratchet (or 10mm wrench), wire crimpers, and wire cutters. These are the minimum tools required to complete the installation.
The T-Connector package includes: the T-Connector adapter with yellow, red, and green wires; a black box; yellow butt connectors; a white wire with eyelet and screw for grounding; a yellow fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse; cable ties; double-sided tape; and a 4-flat connector for storage in the rear cargo area when not in use.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery cable in step 8. After all connections are complete, you reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required or recommended. However, the installation involves battery disconnection, drilling, wire routing, and electrical connections. If you are not comfortable working with vehicle electrical systems or drilling into your vehicle, consult a professional installer.
1. Locate the vehicle wiring inside the rear cargo area by partially removing the plastic threshold cover and felt trunk liner. 2. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors. 3. Insert the T-Connector between the separated connectors, ensuring the mating surfaces match and connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. On the driver's side, attach the T-Connector ends with yellow and red wires. 5. Route the T-Connector with the green wire below the threshold cover to the passenger's side taillight housing and repeat the connection process.
Before inserting the T-Connector, verify that the mating surfaces of your vehicle's wiring connectors match the T-Connector ends. All connector surfaces must be clean and free of dirt. Be careful not to damage the locking tabs during insertion, and ensure that connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white grounding wire using the eyelet and screw provided. The hole should be drilled in a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. You must not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Drill the 3/32" hole at a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Before drilling, clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Always verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
You need a 3/32" drill bit to create the hole for the white grounding wire eyelet and screw.
The T-Connector includes: yellow and red wires that connect to the driver's side taillight housing; a green wire that connects to the passenger's side taillight housing; a black 12 gauge wire that routes to the vehicle's battery; and a white wire that grounds to the vehicle's frame or cross member. Inside the trunk, the black and red wires are connected together using a yellow butt connector.
From inside the trunk, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box together using the supplied yellow butt connector.
Route the black wire from inside the trunk into the engine compartment and up to the battery. Take care to avoid any hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse. The fuse holder connects between the black 12 gauge wire and the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. The ring terminal of the fuse holder is secured to the positive battery cable, and the other end of the fuse holder connects to the black wire using a yellow butt connector. The fuse is installed after all other connections are complete.
1. Disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. 2. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if present. 3. Cut the fuse holder wire. 4. Attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable and secure it. 5. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector. 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as the vehicle's frame or cross member. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum 1 stop/turn light per side at 2.1 amps, and maximum tail lights at 4.2 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Wear safety glasses during installation. Verify what is behind any surface before drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces or the vehicle floor or bed. Route the black wire carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Ensure all connections are complete before testing the T-Connector.
After installation is complete, test and verify the T-Connector with a test light or by connecting a trailer. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. If the lights do not work, check that all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, all wire connections are secure, and the 10 amp fuse is installed.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Take care to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Mount the T-Connector black box on the driver's side floor of the rear cargo area using the double-sided tape provided. First clean a flat area using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water.
Store the 4-flat connector in the rear cargo area (trunk or cargo bed) when the T-Connector is not in use.
The T-Connector fits vehicles with a rear cargo area and accessible taillight housings with connection points matching the adapter. Confirm compatibility with the manufacturer or retailer using your vehicle's year, make, and model before purchasing.
You need a drill with 3/32" bit, Phillips head screwdriver, 10mm socket/ratchet or wrench, wire crimpers, and wire cutters.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. Reconnect it after all connections are complete.
The T-Connector uses a 10 amp fuse in the yellow fuse holder that connects between the black wire and the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) or tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating. Overloading can cause fires.
Verify the following in order: (1) Ensure the 10 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder. (2) Check that all T-Connector ends are fully inserted into the taillight connectors with locking tabs in place on both driver's and passenger's sides. (3) Confirm the black and red wires are connected together with a yellow butt connector inside the trunk. (4) Verify the white grounding wire is securely fastened to the vehicle's frame or cross member with the eyelet and screw. (5) Check that the black wire is routed properly to the battery and the ring terminal is securely attached to the positive battery cable. (6) Ensure the fuse holder is properly connected between the black wire and the positive battery cable. If all connections are complete and secure, test with a test light or trailer to verify function.
A repeatedly blown 10 amp fuse indicates an electrical overload or short circuit. Check that: (1) the total electrical load does not exceed 1 stop/turn light per side (2.1 amps) and tail lights (4.2 amps), or your towing manufacturer's lower rating; (2) all wire connections are secure and properly insulated with no exposed copper; (3) the white grounding wire is securely fastened and making good contact with the vehicle's frame; (4) no wires are pinched, cut, or damaged; and (5) the trailer's electrical system is functioning correctly and not drawing excessive current. If the fuse continues to blow after verifying these items, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or trailer system that requires professional diagnosis.
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