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2002 - 2003 Chrysler 300
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2005-2023 Chrysler 300, 2008-2023 Dodge Challenger, 2006-2023 Dodge Charger, 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 2 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2002 - 2003 | Chrysler 300 | — |
The 36548 hitch fits 2008-Current Dodge Challenger models, with one important exception: it does NOT fit Challengers with quad exhaust tips. Check your vehicle's exhaust configuration before purchasing. For the most current application information and trim level compatibility, visit the Cequent website.
Yes, the 36548 hitch is compatible with 2005-Current Chrysler 300 models. For the most up-to-date information regarding specific trim levels and current application years, visit the Cequent website.
No. The 36548 hitch is compatible with 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum models only. A 2004 model year is outside the supported range.
The 36548 is a weight-carrying hitch with a maximum gross trailer weight of 3500 lb (1587 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 300 lb (136 kg). However, you must not exceed the lower of your towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits. Always consult your vehicle's owner manual for its specific towing capacity.
Required tools include: ratchet, torque wrench, safety glasses, sockets (8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, and 3/4 inch), socket extension, universal joint, flat-head screwdriver, and plastic trim tools. A 10mm socket is also needed if fascia removal is required on your vehicle.
The fastener kit (36548F) includes: (3) carriage bolts ½"-13 x 1.50 GR5, (3) spacers 1" x 3", (3) hex nuts ½", (4) conical tooth washers ½", (1) bolt M12 CL10.9, and (3) fish wires ½-13. All fasteners are provided; no factory fasteners are reused for the hitch attachment.
Muffler removal is required only for 2011 and newer vehicles. For pre-2011 models, the exhaust is simply lowered by removing the hangers; the muffler stays in place. For 2011 and newer models, the muffler must be completely removed from the vehicle.
Fascia removal is required only for vehicles with welded exhaust systems where the exhaust tips are riveted to the fascia. For vehicles with exhaust that separates at the rear, fascia removal is not necessary. On Chrysler 300/300C models with welded exhaust, plastic appearance panels covering the trunk pan must be removed and returned to the vehicle owner.
For 2011 and newer models, the vehicle must be raised a minimum of 20 inches (measured from the bottom of the fascia to the ground) to allow access to the frame rails. Pre-2011 models do not have a specified minimum clearance requirement, but working space beneath the vehicle is necessary.
Yes. The manual states: "If you do not feel comfortable performing this installation on your own or are in need of assistance, please contact a professional installer." Installation time averages 30 minutes for exhaust that separates at the rear, or 50 minutes for welded exhaust assemblies requiring fascia removal. Professional installation is especially recommended if you are inexperienced with vehicle modifications.
All ½" fasteners (carriage bolts and hex nuts) must be torqued to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m). Proper torque is critical to keep the hitch securely mounted to the vehicle when towing.
The M12 CL10.9 bolt must be torqued to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). This bolt connects the hitch to the existing weldnut on the frame rail.
Use fish wire (½-13) to route the ½" carriage bolts and spacers through the access holes on both the driver and passenger side frame rails. Pull the hardware through the existing holes. Install (2) bolts on the passenger side and (1) bolt on the driver side. Kink the fish wire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt during routing.
The conical tooth washer must be installed with the teeth side facing against the hitch. This applies to both the ½" conical tooth washers and the M12 conical tooth washer.
Lower the exhaust by removing (2) exhaust hangers per side using a 13mm socket. This allows access to the frame rails. After the hitch is installed and torqued, re-install the exhaust hangers. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
Run the M12 bolt into the existing weldnut to clean dirt or debris from the weldnut before final installation. This ensures a clean connection and proper torque.
On 2011 and newer V8 models, you must remove and save (2) assembly bolts and springs from the flange (nut and spring are attached). Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. These bolts and springs must be saved and reinstalled when the muffler is replaced.
On 2011 and newer V6 models, you must remove and save the band clamp, separate the exhaust pipes, and remove the muffler. The band clamp is located just before the "Y" connection on the exhaust. Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. The band clamp must be saved for reinstallation.
Remove the plastic expansion fasteners holding the wheel well liner to the fascia on each side. Pull back the wheel well liner to access the hidden screw (10mm socket) holding the upper portion of the fascia to the quarter panel on each side. Remove the remaining screws and plastic expansion fasteners along the bottom of the fascia, including the 10mm nuts holding the underbody panel to the trunk pan. Gently remove the fascia and unplug the wiring. Set the bumper fascia aside.
On Chrysler 300/300C models, remove the plastic appearance panels that cover the trunk pan. After installation is complete, return these appearance panels and fasteners to the vehicle owner.
Always wear safety glasses when installing the hitch. Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced immediately.
Load the trailer heavier in front. Do not exceed the lower of your towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or the hitch limits (3500 lb GVWR, 300 lb tongue weight). Always wear your seatbelt. Slow down when towing and never exceed posted speed limits. If excessive sway occurs, take your foot off the gas pedal and hold the steering wheel as steady as possible. Do not apply brakes and do not speed up.
Check that all fasteners are tight and the hitch is securely mounted to the vehicle. Verify that the ½" fasteners are torqued to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and the M12 bolt is torqued to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). Ensure the exhaust hangers are reinstalled. Check that the bumper fascia and wiring are properly reinstalled if they were removed.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection before towing is recommended to ensure the hitch remains securely mounted to the vehicle.
The 36548 is a weight-carrying hitch only. Weight-distributing capability is listed as N/A in the manual. If you need weight-distributing functionality, this hitch is not suitable for that application.
The authorized drawbar kit is part number 36061, sold separately. The drawbar must be used in the RISE position only. Consult the 36061 installation instructions for proper installation and use.
The 36548 fits 2006-Current Dodge Charger, 2005-Current Chrysler 300, 2008-Current Dodge Challenger (except quad exhaust models), and 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum. Check your vehicle's exhaust configuration and visit the Cequent website for the most current trim level compatibility.
You need a ratchet, torque wrench, safety glasses, sockets (8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 3/4 inch), socket extension, universal joint, flat-head screwdriver, and plastic trim tools. A 10mm socket is needed if fascia removal is required.
Muffler removal is required only for 2011 and newer vehicles. Pre-2011 models require only exhaust lowering by removing hangers.
For 2011 and newer models, the vehicle must be raised a minimum of 20 inches (bottom of fascia to ground). Pre-2011 models require working space beneath the vehicle but have no specified minimum clearance.
Torque all ½" fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and the M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). Proper torque is critical for towing safety.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 3500 lb (1587 kg) and maximum tongue weight is 300 lb (136 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Do not cut access holes with a torch. Check fasteners frequently. Do not exceed towing capacity. Load trailers heavier in front. Wear seatbelt and slow down when towing.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Chrysler 300. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
The T-Connector is a wiring adapter that allows you to connect a trailer to your Chrysler 300. It interfaces with your vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness and battery to provide power to trailer lights. The system includes a black box (mounted under the trunk threshold), connectors with green and yellow wires, and battery connections.
You will need: trim panel remover, 10 mm socket and ratchet or 10 mm wrench, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, and test probe. Safety glasses are also required.
The kit includes: T-Connector adapters with green and yellow wires, a black box with red and black 12 gauge wires, white grounding wire with eyelet, yellow butt connectors, a yellow fuse holder with 10 amp fuse, a ring terminal, double-sided tape, and cable ties.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery cable in step 6. After completing the fuse holder connection, you reconnect the negative cable and install the 10 amp fuse.
The battery is located inside the vehicle's trunk. You will access it from inside the vehicle to connect the black 12 gauge wire and red wire from the T-Connector black box.
Open the trunk and remove the threshold panel. Partially remove the corner felt trunk liner on both sides to expose the vehicle's taillight wiring harness. On the driver and passenger sides, remove two Torx-20 screws and remove the cargo loops.
Starting with the passenger side, slide the red locking tab on the harness connector to the unlocked position and disconnect the wire harness from the sockets. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Attach each end to the T-Connector containing the green wire, making sure connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat for the yellow wire connector on the driver side.
Route the connector containing the yellow wire down the threshold to the driver side of the vehicle. Push the wiring between the vehicle body and carpet to protect it from damage.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole on the driver's side near the connectors to secure the white grounding wire with an eyelet using the screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
Locate a suitable grounding point on the driver's side near the connectors. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire with the eyelet using the screw provided. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
From inside the vehicle, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box with the supplied yellow butt connector. Then disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if not already removed. After cutting the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal and secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided.
Install a 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder after reconnecting the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable.
Mount the T-Connector black box near the center of the vehicle, below the trunk threshold. Clean a flat area using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, then secure the black box using the double-sided tape provided.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
Replace the carpet and any other clips or panels that were removed during installation, being careful not to cut or pinch the wires.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum stop/turn light is 1 per side (2.1 amps); maximum tail lights are 5.6 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Read your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.
Store the 4-Flat connector in the trunk area when not in use.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed specifically for the Chrysler 300.
You need: trim panel remover, 10 mm socket/ratchet or wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips screwdriver, and test probe. Safety glasses are required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting to the positive battery terminal, then reconnect it after installing the 10 amp fuse.
A 10 amp fuse is required. Do not exceed maximum electrical loads: 2.1 amps per stop/turn light (1 per side) or 5.6 amps for tail lights.
Maximum stop/turn light is 1 per side (2.1 amps); maximum tail lights are 5.6 amps. Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits.
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