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2011 - 2014 Chrysler 300
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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 2005-2023 Chrysler 300, 2008-2022 Dodge Challenger, 2006-2023 Dodge Charger, 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2014 | Chrysler 300 | — |
The 2011-2014 Chrysler 300 Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-118600) fits 2011-2014 Chrysler 300 models. The 2014 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2011-2014 Chrysler 300 Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-118600) is designed to fit the 2011-2014 Chrysler 300.
The 2011-2014 Chrysler 300 Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-118600) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2014 Chrysler 300. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2011-2014 Chrysler 300 Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness (Part #DTB76145-118600) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2008 and newer Dodge Challengers, except those with quad exhaust tips. Verify your vehicle does not have quad exhaust tips before purchasing.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2005 and newer Chrysler 300 models.
No. Part 76145 does not fit Dodge Challengers with quad exhaust tips. The hitch will interfere with the quad exhaust configuration.
No. Part 76145 is designed for 2005 and newer Chrysler 300 models. The 2004 model year is not supported.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, safety glasses, sockets (8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 18 mm, and 3/4 inch), socket extension, universal joint socket, flat-head screwdriver, and plastic trim tools.
For 2011 and newer models, the vehicle must be raised a minimum of 20 inches (measured from bottom of fascia to ground) to allow access to the frame rails and exhaust system.
Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m). Torque the M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). Proper torque is critical for safety when towing.
Part 76145 is a weight-carrying hitch with a maximum gross trailer weight of 4500 lb (2041 kg) and maximum tongue weight of 675 lb (306 kg). Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating or these limits.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing weldnuts on the frame rails and existing exhaust hanger attachment points. The manual explicitly states: do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch.
Fascia removal is required only on vehicles with welded exhaust systems where the exhaust tips are riveted to the fascia. On vehicles with separable exhaust (pre-2011 and some 2011+), fascia removal is not necessary. Check your exhaust configuration before starting installation.
Fastener kit 76145F includes: (3) carriage bolts ½"-13 x 1.50 GR5, (3) spacers 1" x 3", (3) hex nuts ½", (4) conical tooth washers ½", (1) bolt M12 CL10.9, and (3) fish wires ½-13. All fasteners are included; no additional hardware is required.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2006 and newer Dodge Chargers.
Yes, part 76145 fits 2005-2008 Dodge Magnum models. Compatibility for 2009 and newer Magnums is not listed in the manual.
The manual does not list 2009 or newer Dodge Magnum models as compatible. Part 76145 is confirmed only for 2005-2008 Magnum models. Contact Cequent at 800-632-3290 or visit their website to verify compatibility for 2009 and newer years.
Pre-2011 vehicles with separable exhaust take approximately 30 minutes to install. 2011 and newer vehicles with welded exhaust assemblies and riveted exhaust tips (requiring fascia removal) take approximately 50 minutes. These times are averages for professional installers.
Muffler removal is required on 2011 and newer models. On pre-2011 models, the muffler is not removed; instead, the exhaust is lowered by removing the exhaust hangers. The hitch slides over the mufflers during installation.
Remove the exhaust hangers using a 13 mm socket. Spray lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator to ease removal. On vehicles with dual exhaust, remove hangers from both sides. On 2011 and newer models, also remove rubber isolators from hangers on exhaust pipes forward of the trunk pan for additional clearance.
Fish wire (½-13) is used to route the ½ inch carriage bolts and spacers through the access holes in the driver and passenger side frame rails. The fish wire pulls the hardware through the existing holes in the frame. The manual shows kinking the fish wire to keep the spacer independent of the bolt.
Two (2) carriage bolts and spacers go through the passenger side frame rail access hole. One (1) carriage bolt and spacer go through the driver side frame rail access hole. Total: three bolts and three spacers.
The conical tooth washer (½ inch) is a locking washer with teeth on one side. Install it with the teeth side facing against the hitch. Four conical tooth washers are included in the fastener kit. They are used under the ½ inch fasteners and under the M12 bolt to prevent loosening during towing.
The spacers (1 inch x 3 inch) are used with the ½ inch carriage bolts to create proper spacing and alignment when fastening the hitch to the frame rails through the access holes. Three spacers are included in the fastener kit.
Run the M12 bolt into the existing weldnut to clean dirt or debris from the weldnut. This is done before raising the hitch into position. Perform this step on both pre-2011 and 2011+ installations.
1. Lower exhaust by removing exhaust hangers (13 mm socket). 2. Clean weldnut with M12 bolt. 3. Fish carriage bolts and spacers through frame rail access holes. 4. Raise hitch over mufflers and loosely install M12 bolt and conical tooth washer into weldnut. 5. Install ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. 6. Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). 7. Reinstall exhaust hangers.
1. Remove plastic appearance panels (Chrysler 300/300C only). 2. Lower exhaust by removing hangers (13 mm socket). 3. Remove muffler (V8: save assembly bolts and springs; V6: save band clamp). 4. Clean weldnut with M12 bolt. 5. Fish carriage bolts and spacers through frame rail access holes. 6. Raise passenger side bracket over passenger muffler, support it, loosely install M12 bolt and conical tooth washer through bracket into driver side frame rail, push passenger muffler up and outward, install ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. 7. Torque all ½ inch fasteners to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m) and M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). 8. Reinstall exhaust hangers. 9. Reinstall wiring and bumper fascia.
On 2011 and newer V8 models, remove and save the (2) assembly bolts and springs from the flange (nut and spring are attached). Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. These bolts and springs must be saved for reinstallation after the hitch is installed.
On 2011 and newer V6 models, remove and save the band clamp located just before the "Y" connection on the exhaust. Separate the exhaust pipes and remove the muffler. Carefully remove the muffler from the driver's side. The band clamp must be saved for reinstallation.
Plastic appearance panel removal is required only on Chrysler 300 and 300C models. The panels cover the trunk pan and must be removed to access the frame rails. After installation, return the panels and fasteners to the vehicle owner.
Remove plastic expansion fasteners holding the wheel well liner to the fascia (each side). Pull back the wheel well liner to access the hidden screw (10 mm socket) holding the upper fascia to the quarter panel (each side). Remove remaining screws and plastic expansion fasteners along the bottom of the fascia, including the 10 mm nuts holding the underbody panel to the trunk pan. Gently remove the fascia and unplug wiring. Set the bumper fascia aside.
Loosely install the M12 bolt and conical tooth washer before installing the ½ inch fasteners. This holds the hitch in position. Then install the ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts. Finally, torque all fasteners to their specified values in the final step. Do not fully tighten fasteners until all are in place.
Torque the M12 bolt to 68 ft-lb (92 N·m). This is the final torque specification after all fasteners are installed.
Torque all ½ inch fasteners (carriage bolts and hex nuts) to 75 ft-lb (102 N·m). This includes the three ½ inch fasteners on the frame rails and the ½ inch conical tooth washers and nuts.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and the hitch is securely mounted to the vehicle. Check the hitch frequently during use to ensure all fasteners and the ball remain properly tightened. Proper torque is critical for safety when towing.
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. This prevents corrosion and damage to the vehicle interior.
The maximum tongue weight is 675 lb (306 kg). Do not exceed this limit or the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
If excessive sway occurs, take your foot off the gas pedal and hold the steering wheel as steady as possible. Do not apply your brakes and do not speed up. Reduce speed and maintain steady steering until the sway subsides.
Load the trailer heavier in front. This means the weight should be distributed so that the front of the trailer (near the tongue) is heavier than the rear. This improves stability and handling when towing.
Always wear safety glasses when installing the hitch. Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Do not cut, weld, or modify the receiver.
Check the hitch frequently, making sure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but recommends periodic checks during use to ensure safety when towing.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch. Contact Cequent at 800-632-3290 for replacement parts.
Run the M12 bolt into the existing weldnut to clean dirt or debris from the weldnut before raising the hitch into position. This ensures a clean connection and proper torque application.
Spray a lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and the rubber isolator to ease removal. Allow the lubricant to soak for a few minutes before attempting to remove the hanger again.
Gently push the passenger side muffler up and outward for clearance. If additional clearance is needed, remove the rubber isolators from the exhaust hangers on the exhaust pipes forward of the trunk pan. This provides additional space to position the hitch bracket.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Chrysler 300. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
The T-Connector is a wiring adapter that allows you to connect a trailer to your Chrysler 300. It interfaces with your vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness and battery to provide power to trailer lights. The system includes a black box (mounted under the trunk threshold), connectors with green and yellow wires, and battery connections.
You will need: trim panel remover, 10 mm socket and ratchet or 10 mm wrench, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips head screwdriver, and test probe. Safety glasses are also required.
The kit includes: T-Connector adapters with green and yellow wires, a black box with red and black 12 gauge wires, white grounding wire with eyelet, yellow butt connectors, a yellow fuse holder with 10 amp fuse, a ring terminal, double-sided tape, and cable ties.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable before connecting the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery cable in step 6. After completing the fuse holder connection, you reconnect the negative cable and install the 10 amp fuse.
The battery is located inside the vehicle's trunk. You will access it from inside the vehicle to connect the black 12 gauge wire and red wire from the T-Connector black box.
Open the trunk and remove the threshold panel. Partially remove the corner felt trunk liner on both sides to expose the vehicle's taillight wiring harness. On the driver and passenger sides, remove two Torx-20 screws and remove the cargo loops.
Starting with the passenger side, slide the red locking tab on the harness connector to the unlocked position and disconnect the wire harness from the sockets. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt. Attach each end to the T-Connector containing the green wire, making sure connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat for the yellow wire connector on the driver side.
Route the connector containing the yellow wire down the threshold to the driver side of the vehicle. Push the wiring between the vehicle body and carpet to protect it from damage.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole on the driver's side near the connectors to secure the white grounding wire with an eyelet using the screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
Locate a suitable grounding point on the driver's side near the connectors. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire with the eyelet using the screw provided. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
From inside the vehicle, connect the black 12 gauge wire and the red wire from the T-Connector black box with the supplied yellow butt connector. Then disconnect the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder if not already removed. After cutting the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal and secure it to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided.
Install a 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder after reconnecting the vehicle's negative (−) battery cable.
Mount the T-Connector black box near the center of the vehicle, below the trunk threshold. Clean a flat area using a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water, then secure the black box using the double-sided tape provided.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
Replace the carpet and any other clips or panels that were removed during installation, being careful not to cut or pinch the wires.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum stop/turn light is 1 per side (2.1 amps); maximum tail lights are 5.6 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Read your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle's electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition. All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly.
Store the 4-Flat connector in the trunk area when not in use.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed specifically for the Chrysler 300.
You need: trim panel remover, 10 mm socket/ratchet or wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, Phillips screwdriver, and test probe. Safety glasses are required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery cable before connecting to the positive battery terminal, then reconnect it after installing the 10 amp fuse.
A 10 amp fuse is required. Do not exceed maximum electrical loads: 2.1 amps per stop/turn light (1 per side) or 5.6 amps for tail lights.
Maximum stop/turn light is 1 per side (2.1 amps); maximum tail lights are 5.6 amps. Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits.
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