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2013 - 2016 Ford Escape
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These durable custom hitches are manufactured for 2013-2019 Ford Escape and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 2 inch square receiver tube opening ? the most common and versatile on the market - allowing you to attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or hook up your pop-up, boat trailer, or utility trailer. The options are endless! DRAW-TITE Class 3 Custom Trailer Hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground, the lake, or the bike trails, or you are tackling a project at home and need to haul the materials home, choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2016 | Ford Escape | — |
Yes, the 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 75782 (Part #DTB75782-118566) is designed to fit the 2013-2016 Ford Escape.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 75782 (Part #DTB75782-118566) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2016 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 75782 (Part #DTB75782-118566) fits 2013-2016 Ford Escape models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 75782 (Part #DTB75782-118566) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part number 75782 is a hitch assembly for the Ford Escape. The hitch comes with frame rail attachment hardware and requires fastener kit 75782F. The kit includes carriage bolts, hex bolts, spacers, washers, lock washers, conical washers, hex nuts, and pull wires for installation.
Yes, part number 75782 is designed for the Ford Escape. The installation manual is specific to this vehicle model.
The hitch supports two configurations: Weight Distributing hitches rated for 5000 lb (2270 kg) maximum gross trailer weight with 525 lb (239 kg) maximum tongue weight, and Weight Carrying Ball Mount hitches rated for 3500 lb (1589 kg) maximum gross trailer weight with 525 lb (239 kg) maximum tongue weight. Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these specifications.
Yes, the 75782 is designed for Ford Escape. Maximum towing capacity is 5000 lb (weight distributing) or 3500 lb (weight carrying ball mount), with 525 lb maximum tongue weight.
Required tools are: wrenches in 10mm, 13mm, and 11/16" sizes; a torque wrench; tin snips; a file or die grinder; and pull wire (provided with the hitch). You will also need soapy water or lubricant to aid in removal of the exhaust hanger components.
You need wrenches (10mm, 13mm, 11/16"), a torque wrench, tin snips, a file or die grinder, and soapy water or lubricant. Pull wire is provided.
No drilling is required. The manual specifies "Drill Bits: None". However, the access hole must be enlarged using a file or die grinder to allow carriage bolt access.
No drilling is required. The access hole is enlarged with a file or die grinder, and heat shield trimming is required.
Two modifications are required: (1) Heat shield trimming on both driver and passenger sides. On the driver side, remove the forward fastener, measure and mark the trim area, then re-secure with the original fastener. On the passenger side, trim as shown in the manual figure. (2) Enlarge the access hole using a file or grinder to allow carriage bolt access. These modifications are permanent.
Yes. The first installation step requires lowering the exhaust. Remove the two fasteners on the exhaust hanger brackets on each side of the frame, and remove the rubber isolator hanger forward of the suspension for additional room. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
The exhaust must be lowered. Remove the two fasteners on exhaust hanger brackets on each side and remove the rubber isolator hanger forward of the suspension. Lubricant or soapy water helps with removal.
Two people are recommended for hitch installation.
The pull wire procedure is used to install fasteners into the frame rails. The coiled end of the pull wire is fed into the hole inside the frame and pulled out through the modified access slot, with the required fastener attached. The fasteners are then pulled into position. The pull wires remain attached until the hitch is slid into position, then are fed through the slots as needed. After the hitch is positioned, fasteners are pulled through the vertical slots and the pull wires are removed before final tightening.
Install fasteners in this sequence: (1) Start with the rear side frame rail fasteners (items 1 & 2) and the rear attachment horizontal slot fasteners (items 1 & 3) using the pull wire procedure. (2) Install remaining 7/16 fasteners (items 1 & 2) using the reverse pull wire procedure. (3) Push side fasteners with pull wires back into frame. (4) Slide the hitch into position, starting with the driver's side, sliding from the passenger side up over the exhaust. (5) Attach the rear horizontal 7/16 fasteners. (6) Install the M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts at the rear bracket tab. (7) Pull fasteners through the vertical slot on the side attachment. (8) Attach remaining fasteners and hand tighten only. (9) Reattach exhaust hanger brackets. (10) Tighten all fasteners to torque specification.
No. After attaching all fasteners as shown in the manual, hand tighten only at that stage. Do not apply full torque until all fasteners are in place and the hitch is properly positioned. Final torque tightening is performed as the last step after the exhaust hanger brackets are reattached.
Tighten all M8 CL8.8 fasteners with a torque wrench to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N·M).
Tighten all M8 CL10.9 fasteners with a torque wrench to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M).
Tighten all 7/16 GR5 fasteners with a torque wrench to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M).
M8 CL8.8: 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N·M). M8 CL10.9: 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N·M). 7/16 GR5: 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M). Use a torque wrench for all final tightening.
The 75782F fastener kit includes: 6 carriage bolts 7/16-14 x 1.50 GR5; 4 hex bolts M8-1.25 x 30mm CL8.8; 4 spacers 1/4" x 7/8" x 3"; 12 flat washers 5/16"; 2 spacers 3/16" x 1" x 2"; 4 lock washers 5/16"; 4 conical washers 7/16"; 2 hex nuts M8-1.25; 6 hex nuts 7/16-14; 2 conical washers 3/8"; 2 flat washers 7/16"; 2 hex bolts M8-1.25 x 40mm CL10.9; 2 lock washers 7/16"; and 6 pull wires 7/16".
Slide the hitch into position starting with the driver's side, sliding from the passenger side up and over the exhaust, then the passenger side into position. Feed the pull wires through the slots as needed during this process.
The spacers (1/4" x 7/8" x 3" and 3/16" x 1" x 2") are used to maintain proper spacing and alignment of the hitch assembly to the frame rails. The pull wire is kinked to keep the spacer independent of the bolt during the pull wire installation procedure.
After installation, check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify a particular retorque interval, but emphasizes the importance of regular inspection.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes. A hitch or ball that has been damaged should be removed and replaced.
Wear eye protection when working beneath the vehicle. Do not cut holes with a torch. If removed, plug all holes to prevent water and exhaust fume entry. Replace any damaged hitch or ball.
The manual recommends checking the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. No specific interval is provided.
Conical washers (7/16" and 3/8" sizes) are used in the fastener assembly to provide proper clamping and load distribution. The 7/16" conical washers are placed on carriage bolts in the vertical slot attachment, and the 3/8" conical washers are used at the end frame and bumper plate attachment.
The M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts (item 13) are installed through the bracket tab at the rear of the hitch with a 5/16" flat washer. Three 5/16" flat washers are attached to item 13 on both sides. The hitch is then pushed rearward toward the end frame, and the fasteners are fed through the end frame and bumper plate. A 3/8" conical washer and M8 hex nut are attached to complete the assembly.
Attach the rear horizontal 7/16 fasteners using a flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut. These fasteners help support the hitch.
Pull the fasteners through the vertical slot on the side attachment, place the conical washer on the carriage bolt, remove the pull wire, and attach the hex nut.
After all fasteners are attached and hand tightened, reattach the exhaust hanger brackets using the fasteners as shown in the manual. Then tighten all fasteners to the required torque specification. Finally, reattach the rubber isolator hanger.
The exhaust must be lowered during installation to provide clearance for the hitch. The manual requires removal of the two fasteners on the exhaust hanger brackets on each side of the frame and removal of the rubber isolator hanger forward of the suspension. The exhaust hanger brackets are reattached after the hitch is installed.
Yes, the heat shield must be trimmed to accommodate the hitch. On the driver side, remove the forward fastener, measure and mark the trim area, then re-secure with the original fastener. On the passenger side, trim as shown in the manual figure. After trimming, re-secure the driver side heat shield.
Kinking the pull wire keeps the spacer independent of the bolt during the pull wire installation procedure. This ensures proper spacing and alignment of the fastener assembly.
The wiring access location is SUV1, 2. This indicates the location where wiring for trailer lights or other accessories can be routed.
The accessory rating is C.
Yes. The two fasteners removed from the exhaust hanger brackets on each side of the frame are reused to reattach the exhaust hanger brackets after the hitch is installed.
Yes. The fastener removed from the forward location on the driver side heat shield is reused to re-secure the heat shield after trimming.
Soapy water or a general lubricant can be sprayed on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator to help with removal.
Use a file or die grinder to enlarge the access hole to allow carriage bolt access.
Tin snips should be used to trim the heat shield on both the driver and passenger sides.
Lock washers (5/16" and 7/16" sizes) are used to prevent fasteners from loosening due to vibration during towing. They are used in conjunction with flat washers and hex nuts.
Six pull wires (7/16") are included with the hitch. These are used to install fasteners into the frame rails during the installation process.
The forward pull wire procedure involves feeding the coiled end of the pull wire into the hole inside the frame and pulling it out through the modified access slot with the fastener attached. The reverse pull wire procedure is used for remaining fasteners and involves the same basic technique but in the opposite direction. Both procedures result in fasteners being pulled into position within the frame rails.
The pull wires should remain attached after the initial fastener installation. They are kept attached as the hitch is slid into position and are fed through the slots as needed. The pull wires are removed only after the fasteners are pulled through the vertical slots on the side attachment and before the hex nuts are attached.
Flat washers (5/16" and 7/16" sizes) are used to distribute the load of fasteners and prevent them from pulling through softer materials. They are used in conjunction with lock washers and hex nuts in the fastener assembly.
Six carriage bolts (7/16-14 x 1.50 GR5) are included in the fastener kit.
Four hex bolts M8-1.25 x 30mm CL8.8 are included in the fastener kit.
Two hex bolts M8-1.25 x 40mm CL10.9 are included in the fastener kit.
Six spacers are included: four spacers measuring 1/4" x 7/8" x 3", and two spacers measuring 3/16" x 1" x 2".
Six conical washers are included: four washers measuring 7/16", and two washers measuring 3/8".
Eight hex nuts are included: two M8-1.25 hex nuts, and six 7/16-14 hex nuts.
Six lock washers are included: four washers measuring 5/16", and two washers measuring 7/16".
Fourteen flat washers are included: twelve washers measuring 5/16", and two washers measuring 7/16".
The rubber isolator hanger suspends the exhaust system and isolates it from vibration. It must be removed during hitch installation to provide additional room for the installation process, and is reattached after the hitch is fully installed.
Install fasteners in this order: (1) Start with the rear side frame rail fasteners (items 1 & 2) and the rear attachment horizontal slot fasteners (items 1 & 3) using the pull wire procedure. (2) Install remaining 7/16 fasteners (items 1 & 2) using the reverse pull wire procedure. (3) Attach the rear horizontal 7/16 fasteners using flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut.
Push side fasteners with pull wires attached back into the frame. After the hitch is positioned, pull the fasteners through the vertical slot on the side attachment, place the conical washer on the carriage bolt, remove the pull wire, and attach the hex nut.
Install the M8-1.25 x 40mm bolts (item 13) through the bracket tab at the rear of the hitch with a 5/16" flat washer. Attach three 5/16" flat washers to item 13 on both sides. Push the hitch rearward toward the end frame. Feed the fasteners through the end frame and bumper plate, then attach the 3/8" conical washer and M8 hex nut.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring converter that integrates with your Ford Escape's factory taillight wiring to provide a 4-Flat trailer connector. It uses a T-shaped connector that taps into both the driver's and passenger's side taillight sockets, allowing you to connect a trailer without modifying the vehicle's original wiring. The system includes a converter box, fuse holder, and all necessary connectors and hardware.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify trim level, model year, or body style restrictions, so you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer or your vehicle's documentation if you have questions about your specific model year or configuration.
Required tools are: trim panel remover, 8mm socket and ratchet or 8mm wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and test-probe. The manual lists these as required; you may also need safety glasses, which are mandatory for installation.
The kit includes: two T-Connector ends (one with yellow wires for driver's side, one with green wire for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector, a black converter box, a yellow fuse holder with 15 amp fuse, yellow butt connectors, a white eyelet and screw for grounding, cable ties, and double-sided tape for mounting the converter box. A bracket for the 4-Flat is not included.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before beginning the wiring work. This is done in step 6 as part of the fuse holder installation. After connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable, you reconnect the negative cable in step 9 before testing.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to open the tailgate and remove both taillight assemblies by removing four 8mm hex head bolts on each side. Carefully pry the housings away from the vehicle without breaking the alignment tabs. The T-Connector plugs into the taillight sockets, so removal is necessary.
In step 2, disconnect the vehicle's wiring harness from the driver's side taillight socket. Fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. In step 3, plug the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and the vehicle wiring harness. This creates an in-line connection.
In step 4, route the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger's side and route the 4-Flat connector underneath the bumper. Route the T-Connector end with green wire up through the opening on the passenger side, being careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Then repeat step 3 to plug it into the passenger's side taillight socket and vehicle harness.
Yes. Step 5 requires drilling a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector (not on the vehicle floor or bed), clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, drill the hole, and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the white ground wire. This hole is used to secure the eyelet and screw provided in the kit.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on a flat surface. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area before drilling. Always verify what is behind any surface prior to drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse. The fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided in the kit. In step 6, you remove the fuse from the holder, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive battery cable, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using a yellow butt connector. The 15 amp fuse is then installed in step 9.
The main power wire is 12 gauge (12 ga.). This black wire runs from the fuse holder along the frame rail from the front of the vehicle to the rear driver's side, where it connects to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using a yellow butt connector.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle in step 7, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. In step 8, route it to the rear driver's side and locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body. Route the wire up through this hole and attach it to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector. Route carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector has yellow wires on the driver's side connector, green wire on the passenger's side connector, black wire from the converter box (which connects to the 12 gauge power wire), and a white wire for grounding. The yellow and green wires tap into the taillight sockets; the black wire carries power from the fuse holder; the white wire grounds to the vehicle body.
In step 6, disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder, cut the fuse holder wire, and attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. Do not reconnect the negative battery cable until step 9, after all wiring is complete.
In step 10, locate a flat surface on the driver's side in an out-of-the-way place and mount the T-Connector's black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. Mount it so that the epoxy side of the module is pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup.
Mount the 4-Flat in a suitable location under the vehicle. The manual notes that a bracket is not included, so you will need to source or fabricate a mounting solution. The connector should be routed underneath the bumper as part of the installation process in step 4.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Route all wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or exposed surfaces. After installation, test and verify the system with a test light or trailer.
The manual states you must not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings stated on the product. The manual does not specify the product's amperage rating, so you should check the product label or contact the manufacturer for this information.
After reconnecting the vehicle's negative battery cable and installing the 15 amp fuse in step 9, test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer. This ensures all connections are correct and the system is functioning properly before towing.
In step 11, reinstall the taillight housing assemblies, positioning the vehicle wiring harness between the housing and the vehicle body. Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Then secure the four 8mm hex head bolts on each side.
Yes. Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed the stated product ratings or the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual). Always read your vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional information on safe towing capacity.
Yes, the T-Connector (118566-037) is designed for the Ford Escape. Verify your specific model year and configuration with the manufacturer if needed.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning wiring work in step 6. Reconnect it in step 9 after the fuse holder is installed.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. The fuse is connected to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating or the product's amperage rating. Check the product label and your vehicle's owner's manual for specific limits.
First, verify the installation with a test light or trailer as instructed in step 9. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that all connections are secure: the T-Connector plugs at both taillight sockets, the black wire connection to the converter box, and the ground wire eyelet. Ensure the negative battery cable is fully reconnected. If the system still does not work, consult the vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional troubleshooting.
The converter box must be mounted with the epoxy side pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup. If water is accumulating, remount the box in the correct orientation as specified in step 10. Ensure the double-sided tape is securing the box firmly and that it is positioned on a flat surface where water cannot pool.
If wiring is pinched or damaged, do not proceed with installation. The manual explicitly warns to route wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Reroute the affected wire to a safe path, or if damage has occurred, replace the damaged section before reconnecting the battery and testing the system.
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