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2003 Ford Escape
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2013-2019 Ford Escape and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 2 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2003 | Ford Escape | — |
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36524 (Part #DTB36524-118566) fits the following vehicles: 2003 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36524 (Part #DTB36524-118566) fits 2003 Ford Escape models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36524 (Part #DTB36524-118566) is designed to fit the 2003 Ford Escape.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36524 (Part #DTB36524-118566) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes 4 carriage bolts (7/16-14 X 1.50 GR5), 4 hex nuts (7/16-14 GR2), 4 spacers (¼ X 7/8 X 3.00), 4 pull wires (7/16), and 4 conical washers (7/16). All fasteners are included in fastener kit 36524F. A separate drawbar kit (36071) is sold separately.
Yes, the hitch is designed for Ford Escape. The manual specifies wiring access locations as SUV 1 & 2. However, if your vehicle has the 'Hands free lift gate' option, the lift gate sensor will only work in a limited area around the hitch installation location.
The hitch will not prevent the lift gate from functioning, but the lift gate sensor will only work in a limited area when the hitch is installed. The sensor's operating range is reduced to the area shown in Figure 2 of the manual.
You will need an 11/16" wrench and a torque wrench. The manual also shows that a file or prying tool (such as a wrench used as a lever) may be needed to enlarge the access holes if the spacer and bolt head do not fit through them initially.
You should first check whether the spacer and bolt head will fit through the access holes. If they do not fit, you will need to enlarge the holes. The manual shows two methods: using a file or inserting a wrench and prying to widen the opening. Enlarge the hole just enough to allow the hardware to pass through. Do not use a torch to cut the holes.
1. Feed spacers and carriage bolts into position using the pull wires provided, keeping the bolt and spacer separate (not engaged) while inserting into the frame rail. 2. Push fasteners back into the frame rail, leaving pull wires and extra wire sticking out. 3. Raise the hitch into position between the frame rails and feed pull wires through adjacent holes in the hitch. On the passenger side, raise the forward end of the bracket over the hoses crossing the frame rail. 4. Pull fasteners back through access holes and hitch. 5. Remove pull wires and attach conical washers and nuts, being careful not to push fasteners back into the frame rail. 6. Tighten all fasteners to specification using a torque wrench.
Keeping the bolt and spacer not engaged (not threaded together) while inserting them into the frame rail makes the installation much easier. Once the fasteners are positioned in the frame, you will pull them back through the hitch and then attach the conical washers and nuts.
The pull wires are used to feed the spacers and carriage bolts into position within the frame rails. After the hitch is raised into position, the pull wires are fed through adjacent holes in the hitch to help pull the fasteners back through the access holes and hitch. Once the fasteners are in place, the pull wires are removed.
On the passenger side, raise the forward end of the bracket over the hoses crossing the frame rail. This ensures the hitch bracket clears the hoses during installation.
All 7/16-14 GR5 carriage bolts must be tightened to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M) using a torque wrench.
The kit includes 4 carriage bolts, each 7/16-14 X 1.50 GR5 (Grade 5). These bolts must be tightened to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M).
The kit includes 4 hex nuts, each 7/16-14 GR2 (Grade 2).
The kit includes 4 spacers, each ¼ X 7/8 X 3.00 inches.
The hitch has a maximum gross trailer weight of 3500 LB (1589 Kg) and a maximum tongue weight of 300 LB (136 Kg). However, you must not exceed the lower of the hitch rating or your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
The drawbar must be used in the Rise position only. The drawbar kit (36071) is sold separately.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath the vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. Be careful not to push fasteners back into the frame rail when attaching conical washers and nuts.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. Verify that the hitch is securely mounted and that all bolts remain at the specified torque of 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M).
If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent entry of water and exhaust fumes.
A hitch or ball which has been damaged should be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch.
Yes, the hitch is designed for Ford Escape. If your vehicle has a hands-free lift gate option, the sensor will operate only in a limited area around the hitch.
You will need an 11/16" wrench and a torque wrench. A file or prying tool may be needed to enlarge access holes if required.
You may need to enlarge the existing access holes if the spacer and bolt head do not fit through them. Use a file or prying tool to enlarge just enough for the hardware to pass. Do not use a torch.
Tighten all 7/16-14 GR5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N·M) using a torque wrench.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 3500 LB (1589 Kg) and maximum tongue weight is 300 LB (136 Kg). Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's towing rating.
No, the drawbar kit (36071) is sold separately. The drawbar must be used in the Rise position only.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring converter that integrates with your Ford Escape's factory taillight wiring to provide a 4-Flat trailer connector. It uses a T-shaped connector that taps into both the driver's and passenger's side taillight sockets, allowing you to connect a trailer without modifying the vehicle's original wiring. The system includes a converter box, fuse holder, and all necessary connectors and hardware.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify trim level, model year, or body style restrictions, so you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer or your vehicle's documentation if you have questions about your specific model year or configuration.
Required tools are: trim panel remover, 8mm socket and ratchet or 8mm wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and test-probe. The manual lists these as required; you may also need safety glasses, which are mandatory for installation.
The kit includes: two T-Connector ends (one with yellow wires for driver's side, one with green wire for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector, a black converter box, a yellow fuse holder with 15 amp fuse, yellow butt connectors, a white eyelet and screw for grounding, cable ties, and double-sided tape for mounting the converter box. A bracket for the 4-Flat is not included.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before beginning the wiring work. This is done in step 6 as part of the fuse holder installation. After connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable, you reconnect the negative cable in step 9 before testing.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to open the tailgate and remove both taillight assemblies by removing four 8mm hex head bolts on each side. Carefully pry the housings away from the vehicle without breaking the alignment tabs. The T-Connector plugs into the taillight sockets, so removal is necessary.
In step 2, disconnect the vehicle's wiring harness from the driver's side taillight socket. Fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. In step 3, plug the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and the vehicle wiring harness. This creates an in-line connection.
In step 4, route the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger's side and route the 4-Flat connector underneath the bumper. Route the T-Connector end with green wire up through the opening on the passenger side, being careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Then repeat step 3 to plug it into the passenger's side taillight socket and vehicle harness.
Yes. Step 5 requires drilling a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector (not on the vehicle floor or bed), clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, drill the hole, and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the white ground wire. This hole is used to secure the eyelet and screw provided in the kit.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on a flat surface. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area before drilling. Always verify what is behind any surface prior to drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse. The fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided in the kit. In step 6, you remove the fuse from the holder, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive battery cable, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using a yellow butt connector. The 15 amp fuse is then installed in step 9.
The main power wire is 12 gauge (12 ga.). This black wire runs from the fuse holder along the frame rail from the front of the vehicle to the rear driver's side, where it connects to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using a yellow butt connector.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle in step 7, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. In step 8, route it to the rear driver's side and locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body. Route the wire up through this hole and attach it to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector. Route carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector has yellow wires on the driver's side connector, green wire on the passenger's side connector, black wire from the converter box (which connects to the 12 gauge power wire), and a white wire for grounding. The yellow and green wires tap into the taillight sockets; the black wire carries power from the fuse holder; the white wire grounds to the vehicle body.
In step 6, disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder, cut the fuse holder wire, and attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. Do not reconnect the negative battery cable until step 9, after all wiring is complete.
In step 10, locate a flat surface on the driver's side in an out-of-the-way place and mount the T-Connector's black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. Mount it so that the epoxy side of the module is pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup.
Mount the 4-Flat in a suitable location under the vehicle. The manual notes that a bracket is not included, so you will need to source or fabricate a mounting solution. The connector should be routed underneath the bumper as part of the installation process in step 4.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Route all wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or exposed surfaces. After installation, test and verify the system with a test light or trailer.
The manual states you must not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings stated on the product. The manual does not specify the product's amperage rating, so you should check the product label or contact the manufacturer for this information.
After reconnecting the vehicle's negative battery cable and installing the 15 amp fuse in step 9, test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer. This ensures all connections are correct and the system is functioning properly before towing.
In step 11, reinstall the taillight housing assemblies, positioning the vehicle wiring harness between the housing and the vehicle body. Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Then secure the four 8mm hex head bolts on each side.
Yes. Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed the stated product ratings or the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual). Always read your vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional information on safe towing capacity.
Yes, the T-Connector (118566-037) is designed for the Ford Escape. Verify your specific model year and configuration with the manufacturer if needed.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning wiring work in step 6. Reconnect it in step 9 after the fuse holder is installed.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. The fuse is connected to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating or the product's amperage rating. Check the product label and your vehicle's owner's manual for specific limits.
First, verify the installation with a test light or trailer as instructed in step 9. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that all connections are secure: the T-Connector plugs at both taillight sockets, the black wire connection to the converter box, and the ground wire eyelet. Ensure the negative battery cable is fully reconnected. If the system still does not work, consult the vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional troubleshooting.
The converter box must be mounted with the epoxy side pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup. If water is accumulating, remount the box in the correct orientation as specified in step 10. Ensure the double-sided tape is securing the box firmly and that it is positioned on a flat surface where water cannot pool.
If wiring is pinched or damaged, do not proceed with installation. The manual explicitly warns to route wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Reroute the affected wire to a safe path, or if damage has occurred, replace the damaged section before reconnecting the battery and testing the system.
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