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2004 - 2018 Ford Escape
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2013-2019 Ford Escape and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 2 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 - 2018 | Ford Escape | — |
Yes, the 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118566) is designed to fit the 2004-2018 Ford Escape.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118566) fits the following vehicles: 2004-2018 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118566) fits 2004-2018 Ford Escape models. The 2018 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 2013-2016 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118566) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 36529 is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify model year restrictions, so contact the manufacturer or your installer to confirm compatibility with your specific model year and trim level.
You need: wrenches (10mm, 13mm, 11/16"), tin snips, file or die grinder, torque wrench, soapy water or lubricant, and the pull wire (provided). No drill bits are required.
Two people are recommended for hitch installation.
Tighten all M8 CL8 fasteners to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M); tighten all M8 CL10.9 fasteners to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M); tighten all 7/16 GR5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M). Use a torque wrench for all final tightening.
Maximum Gross Trailer Weight: 3500 LB (1589 Kg); Maximum Tongue Weight: 300 LB (136 Kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
No drilling is required. The manual specifies no drill bits are needed. However, the access slot must be enlarged using a file or grinder, and the heat shield must be trimmed.
The fastener kit 36529F includes: 6 carriage bolts 7/16-14 X 1.50 GR5; 4 hex bolts M8-1.25 X 30mm CL8.8; 4 spacers 1/4" X 7/8" x 3"; 12 flat washers 5/16"; 2 spacers 3/16" X 1" X 2"; 4 lock washers 5/16"; 4 conical washers 7/16"; 2 hex nuts M8-1.25; 6 hex nuts 7/16-14; 2 conical washers 3/8"; 2 flat washers 7/16"; 2 lock washers 7/16"; 2 hex bolts M8-1.25 X 40mm CL10.9; and 6 pull wires 7/16".
The drawbar kit 36071 is sold separately and must be used in the Rise position only. It is not included with the hitch.
The wiring access locations are SUV1 and SUV2, as specified in the manual.
Yes. Step 1 requires lowering the exhaust by removing the two fasteners on exhaust hanger brackets on each side of the frame. You must also remove the rubber isolator hanger forward of the suspension for additional room. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
On the driver's side, remove the forward fastener, measure and mark the area to be trimmed (see Figure 2), then re-secure with the same fastener. On the passenger side, trim the heat shield as shown in Figure 3 (1" hatch area). After trimming, re-secure the driver's side heat shield with the fastener removed earlier.
Use a file or grinder to enlarge the access hole to allow carriage bolt access. The access slot location is shown in Figure 1. Do not use a torch to cut the access hole.
Feed the pull wire (coiled end) into the hole inside the frame and feed it out the modified access slot. Attach the required fastener to the pull wire and pull it into position. Leave pull wires attached initially. Start with the rear side frame rail fasteners (items 1 & 2) and rear attachment horizontal slot (items 1 & 3). Install remaining 7/16 fasteners using the reverse pull wire procedure. See Figure 6 for details.
Slide the hitch into position starting with the driver's side, sliding from the passenger side up and over the exhaust, then the passenger side into position. Feed the pull wires through the slots as needed. See Figure 6.
Attach the rear horizontal 7/16 fasteners using a flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut to help support the hitch. These fasteners are tightened to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M) after hand-tightening all fasteners.
Install the M8-1.25 x 40mm bolt (item 13) and 5/16" flat washer through the bracket tab at the rear of the hitch. Attach three 5/16" flat washers to item 13 on both sides, then push the hitch rearward toward the end frame. Feed the fasteners through the end frame and bumper plate, then attach the 3/8" conical washer and M8 hex nut. See Figure 8.
Pull the fasteners through the vertical slot on the side attachment, place the conical washer on the carriage bolt, remove the pull wire, and attach the hex nut. Hand-tighten only at this stage; final torque is applied after all fasteners are installed.
Hand-tighten all fasteners initially (Step 10). After all fasteners are installed and the exhaust hanger brackets are reattached (Steps 11), tighten all fasteners to the required torque specification using a torque wrench (Step 12). Do not apply final torque until all fasteners are in place.
After installation, reattach the rubber isolator hanger (Step 13). Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of vehicle maintenance.
A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch or ball.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
Tighten all M8 CL8 fasteners with a torque wrench to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M).
Tighten all M8 CL10.9 fasteners with a torque wrench to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M).
Tighten all 7/16 GR5 fasteners with a torque wrench to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M).
The pull wire (provided, 6 pieces of 7/16" wire) is used to feed fasteners through the frame rails into position. The coiled end is fed into the hole inside the frame, then pulled out through the modified access slot with the required fastener attached. The pull wire is then pulled to draw the fastener into position. Pull wires remain attached until the fastener is fully seated.
When using the pull wire procedure, bend or kink the pull wire to prevent the spacer from moving along the bolt during installation. This keeps the spacer in its correct position relative to the bolt. See Figure 5 for an example of the pull wire procedure.
Yes. Installation requires: lowering the exhaust, removing the rubber isolator hanger, trimming the heat shield on both sides, and enlarging the access slot using a file or grinder. These modifications are permanent and necessary for proper hitch installation.
Spray soapy water or lubricant on the pull wire and the frame hole to reduce friction. This same technique is recommended for removing the rubber isolator hanger (Step 1). The lubricant will help the pull wire slide more easily through the frame.
Ensure that the pull wires are fed through the slots as needed (Step 6). Make sure the exhaust has been lowered and the rubber isolator hanger has been removed (Step 1) to provide adequate clearance. Verify that the heat shield has been properly trimmed on both sides (Step 2) and that the access slot has been enlarged sufficiently (Step 3).
Check all fasteners with a torque wrench and re-tighten to the required specification: M8 CL8 fasteners to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M), M8 CL10.9 fasteners to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M), and 7/16 GR5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M). The manual recommends checking the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners remain properly tightened.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring converter that integrates with your Ford Escape's factory taillight wiring to provide a 4-Flat trailer connector. It uses a T-shaped connector that taps into both the driver's and passenger's side taillight sockets, allowing you to connect a trailer without modifying the vehicle's original wiring. The system includes a converter box, fuse holder, and all necessary connectors and hardware.
Yes, the T-Connector is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify trim level, model year, or body style restrictions, so you should verify compatibility with the manufacturer or your vehicle's documentation if you have questions about your specific model year or configuration.
Required tools are: trim panel remover, 8mm socket and ratchet or 8mm wrench, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and test-probe. The manual lists these as required; you may also need safety glasses, which are mandatory for installation.
The kit includes: two T-Connector ends (one with yellow wires for driver's side, one with green wire for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector, a black converter box, a yellow fuse holder with 15 amp fuse, yellow butt connectors, a white eyelet and screw for grounding, cable ties, and double-sided tape for mounting the converter box. A bracket for the 4-Flat is not included.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before beginning the wiring work. This is done in step 6 as part of the fuse holder installation. After connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable, you reconnect the negative cable in step 9 before testing.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to open the tailgate and remove both taillight assemblies by removing four 8mm hex head bolts on each side. Carefully pry the housings away from the vehicle without breaking the alignment tabs. The T-Connector plugs into the taillight sockets, so removal is necessary.
In step 2, disconnect the vehicle's wiring harness from the driver's side taillight socket. Fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. In step 3, plug the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and the vehicle wiring harness. This creates an in-line connection.
In step 4, route the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger's side and route the 4-Flat connector underneath the bumper. Route the T-Connector end with green wire up through the opening on the passenger side, being careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Then repeat step 3 to plug it into the passenger's side taillight socket and vehicle harness.
Yes. Step 5 requires drilling a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the connector (not on the vehicle floor or bed), clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, drill the hole, and secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" hole for the white ground wire. This hole is used to secure the eyelet and screw provided in the kit.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on a flat surface. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area before drilling. Always verify what is behind any surface prior to drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse. The fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided in the kit. In step 6, you remove the fuse from the holder, cut the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive battery cable, and connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using a yellow butt connector. The 15 amp fuse is then installed in step 9.
The main power wire is 12 gauge (12 ga.). This black wire runs from the fuse holder along the frame rail from the front of the vehicle to the rear driver's side, where it connects to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using a yellow butt connector.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle in step 7, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. In step 8, route it to the rear driver's side and locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body. Route the wire up through this hole and attach it to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector. Route carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire.
The T-Connector has yellow wires on the driver's side connector, green wire on the passenger's side connector, black wire from the converter box (which connects to the 12 gauge power wire), and a white wire for grounding. The yellow and green wires tap into the taillight sockets; the black wire carries power from the fuse holder; the white wire grounds to the vehicle body.
In step 6, disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder, cut the fuse holder wire, and attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. Do not reconnect the negative battery cable until step 9, after all wiring is complete.
In step 10, locate a flat surface on the driver's side in an out-of-the-way place and mount the T-Connector's black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. Mount it so that the epoxy side of the module is pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup.
Mount the 4-Flat in a suitable location under the vehicle. The manual notes that a bracket is not included, so you will need to source or fabricate a mounting solution. The connector should be routed underneath the bumper as part of the installation process in step 4.
Always wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury. Route all wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Do not drill into the vehicle floor, bed, or exposed surfaces. After installation, test and verify the system with a test light or trailer.
The manual states you must not exceed the lower of the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual) or the specific amperage ratings stated on the product. The manual does not specify the product's amperage rating, so you should check the product label or contact the manufacturer for this information.
After reconnecting the vehicle's negative battery cable and installing the 15 amp fuse in step 9, test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer. This ensures all connections are correct and the system is functioning properly before towing.
In step 11, reinstall the taillight housing assemblies, positioning the vehicle wiring harness between the housing and the vehicle body. Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper with the cable ties provided, being careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Then secure the four 8mm hex head bolts on each side.
Yes. Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed the stated product ratings or the towing manufacturer rating (including in your vehicle owner's manual). Always read your vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional information on safe towing capacity.
Yes, the T-Connector (118566-037) is designed for the Ford Escape. Verify your specific model year and configuration with the manufacturer if needed.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning wiring work in step 6. Reconnect it in step 9 after the fuse holder is installed.
The system uses a 15 amp fuse installed in the yellow fuse holder provided. The fuse is connected to the vehicle's positive battery cable.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating or the product's amperage rating. Check the product label and your vehicle's owner's manual for specific limits.
First, verify the installation with a test light or trailer as instructed in step 9. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that all connections are secure: the T-Connector plugs at both taillight sockets, the black wire connection to the converter box, and the ground wire eyelet. Ensure the negative battery cable is fully reconnected. If the system still does not work, consult the vehicle's owner's manual and the T-Connector instruction sheet for additional troubleshooting.
The converter box must be mounted with the epoxy side pointed towards the ground to prevent water buildup. If water is accumulating, remount the box in the correct orientation as specified in step 10. Ensure the double-sided tape is securing the box firmly and that it is positioned on a flat surface where water cannot pool.
If wiring is pinched or damaged, do not proceed with installation. The manual explicitly warns to route wires carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or any points that may pinch or break the wire. Reroute the affected wire to a safe path, or if damage has occurred, replace the damaged section before reconnecting the battery and testing the system.
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