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2003 Ford Escape
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These dependable custom hitches are manufactured for 2013-2019 Ford Escape and attach to your vehicle?s frame or bumper for a sleek, clean appearance. Each hitch also has a 1-1/4 inch square receiver tube opening so you can easily attach accessories like a bike rack or cargo carrier, or a utility trailer. DRAW-TITE Class 2 custom trailer hitches come complete with all the mounting hardware needed for installation and are backed by a nationwide lifetime limited warranty. So, whether you are headed out to the campground and need a place for the cooler, taking the bikes to hit the trails in the park, or you are tackling a DIY project (maybe some landscaping or a home repair), choose DRAW-TITE and travel with confidence knowing your setup is connected with the security only DRAW-TITE can provide. DRAW-TITE: North America?s Favorite Hitch.
Draw-Tite has designed custom-fit trailer hitches since 1946 and is one of North America's most widely fitted hitch brands. Receiver hitches use solid all-welded construction and low-profile designs that follow modern vehicle contours, install with minimal bumper cutting or drilling, meet or exceed V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards, and carry a limited lifetime warranty.
Draw-Tite has been leading custom-fit trailer hitch design and engineering since its founding in 1946, and it remains one of the most widely fitted hitch brands in North America. The company's stated approach is straightforward: every hitch is tested rigorously so that it performs well beyond published industry standards, a philosophy it markets as Tested Tough. It sits within the Horizon Global towing group alongside Reese, Fulton, Bulldog, Tekonsha, Bargman and Wesbar.
Custom fit is the defining characteristic. Rather than adapting a universal design, Draw-Tite engineers a trailer hitch for a specific make, model and model year, so it bolts to existing frame locations with minimal bumper cutting or drilling. Low-profile designs follow the rear contours and aerodynamic styling of modern vehicles, which matters more than it once did now that rear fascias are shaped and sensor-equipped. Construction is solid all-welded steel for maximum strength, and every hitch meets or exceeds V5 CSA and SAE J684 standards and is backed by a nationwide limited lifetime warranty.
The range spans receiver sizes and classes to suit different loads, from 1-1/4 inch receivers for bike racks, cargo carriers and light trailers up through 2 inch receivers for heavier towing. Front mount hitches add a receiver at the front of the vehicle for winch mounts, snow plows, spare carriers and precise trailer positioning.
The Hidden Hitch series takes concealment further by mounting behind the vehicle's rear fascia, so the vehicle keeps its factory appearance until a removable receiver is fitted. Each is custom designed per make and model for a no-drill installation that does not compromise ground clearance, rated for up to 3,500 pounds gross trailer weight and 350 pounds tongue weight. Matching plug-and-play wiring completes the towing system.
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Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2003 | Ford Escape | — |
The 2019-2019 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118802) fits 2003 Ford Escape models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 2019-2019 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118802) is designed to fit the 2003 Ford Escape.
The 2019-2019 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118802) fits the following vehicles: 2003 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 2019-2019 Ford Escape Draw-tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4 Inch Square Receiver Bundle w/ Plug-n-Play T-One Wiring Harness 36529 (Part #DTB36529-118802) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part 36529 is designed for the Ford Escape. The manual does not specify model year restrictions, so contact the manufacturer or your installer to confirm compatibility with your specific model year and trim level.
You need: wrenches (10mm, 13mm, 11/16"), tin snips, file or die grinder, torque wrench, soapy water or lubricant, and the pull wire (provided). No drill bits are required.
Two people are recommended for hitch installation.
Tighten all M8 CL8 fasteners to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M); tighten all M8 CL10.9 fasteners to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M); tighten all 7/16 GR5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M). Use a torque wrench for all final tightening.
Maximum Gross Trailer Weight: 3500 LB (1589 Kg); Maximum Tongue Weight: 300 LB (136 Kg). Do not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturer's rating or these limits.
No drilling is required. The manual specifies no drill bits are needed. However, the access slot must be enlarged using a file or grinder, and the heat shield must be trimmed.
The fastener kit 36529F includes: 6 carriage bolts 7/16-14 X 1.50 GR5; 4 hex bolts M8-1.25 X 30mm CL8.8; 4 spacers 1/4" X 7/8" x 3"; 12 flat washers 5/16"; 2 spacers 3/16" X 1" X 2"; 4 lock washers 5/16"; 4 conical washers 7/16"; 2 hex nuts M8-1.25; 6 hex nuts 7/16-14; 2 conical washers 3/8"; 2 flat washers 7/16"; 2 lock washers 7/16"; 2 hex bolts M8-1.25 X 40mm CL10.9; and 6 pull wires 7/16".
The drawbar kit 36071 is sold separately and must be used in the Rise position only. It is not included with the hitch.
The wiring access locations are SUV1 and SUV2, as specified in the manual.
Yes. Step 1 requires lowering the exhaust by removing the two fasteners on exhaust hanger brackets on each side of the frame. You must also remove the rubber isolator hanger forward of the suspension for additional room. Spraying lubricant or soapy water on the metal hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
On the driver's side, remove the forward fastener, measure and mark the area to be trimmed (see Figure 2), then re-secure with the same fastener. On the passenger side, trim the heat shield as shown in Figure 3 (1" hatch area). After trimming, re-secure the driver's side heat shield with the fastener removed earlier.
Use a file or grinder to enlarge the access hole to allow carriage bolt access. The access slot location is shown in Figure 1. Do not use a torch to cut the access hole.
Feed the pull wire (coiled end) into the hole inside the frame and feed it out the modified access slot. Attach the required fastener to the pull wire and pull it into position. Leave pull wires attached initially. Start with the rear side frame rail fasteners (items 1 & 2) and rear attachment horizontal slot (items 1 & 3). Install remaining 7/16 fasteners using the reverse pull wire procedure. See Figure 6 for details.
Slide the hitch into position starting with the driver's side, sliding from the passenger side up and over the exhaust, then the passenger side into position. Feed the pull wires through the slots as needed. See Figure 6.
Attach the rear horizontal 7/16 fasteners using a flat washer, lock washer, and hex nut to help support the hitch. These fasteners are tightened to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M) after hand-tightening all fasteners.
Install the M8-1.25 x 40mm bolt (item 13) and 5/16" flat washer through the bracket tab at the rear of the hitch. Attach three 5/16" flat washers to item 13 on both sides, then push the hitch rearward toward the end frame. Feed the fasteners through the end frame and bumper plate, then attach the 3/8" conical washer and M8 hex nut. See Figure 8.
Pull the fasteners through the vertical slot on the side attachment, place the conical washer on the carriage bolt, remove the pull wire, and attach the hex nut. Hand-tighten only at this stage; final torque is applied after all fasteners are installed.
Hand-tighten all fasteners initially (Step 10). After all fasteners are installed and the exhaust hanger brackets are reattached (Steps 11), tighten all fasteners to the required torque specification using a torque wrench (Step 12). Do not apply final torque until all fasteners are in place.
After installation, reattach the rubber isolator hanger (Step 13). Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
Check the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners and the ball are properly tightened. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of vehicle maintenance.
A damaged hitch or ball must be removed and replaced. Do not attempt to repair a damaged hitch or ball.
Observe safety precautions when working beneath a vehicle and wear eye protection. Do not cut access or attachment holes with a torch. If the hitch is removed, plug all holes in the trunk pan or other body panels to prevent water and exhaust fume entry.
Tighten all M8 CL8 fasteners with a torque wrench to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M).
Tighten all M8 CL10.9 fasteners with a torque wrench to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M).
Tighten all 7/16 GR5 fasteners with a torque wrench to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M).
The pull wire (provided, 6 pieces of 7/16" wire) is used to feed fasteners through the frame rails into position. The coiled end is fed into the hole inside the frame, then pulled out through the modified access slot with the required fastener attached. The pull wire is then pulled to draw the fastener into position. Pull wires remain attached until the fastener is fully seated.
When using the pull wire procedure, bend or kink the pull wire to prevent the spacer from moving along the bolt during installation. This keeps the spacer in its correct position relative to the bolt. See Figure 5 for an example of the pull wire procedure.
Yes. Installation requires: lowering the exhaust, removing the rubber isolator hanger, trimming the heat shield on both sides, and enlarging the access slot using a file or grinder. These modifications are permanent and necessary for proper hitch installation.
Spray soapy water or lubricant on the pull wire and the frame hole to reduce friction. This same technique is recommended for removing the rubber isolator hanger (Step 1). The lubricant will help the pull wire slide more easily through the frame.
Ensure that the pull wires are fed through the slots as needed (Step 6). Make sure the exhaust has been lowered and the rubber isolator hanger has been removed (Step 1) to provide adequate clearance. Verify that the heat shield has been properly trimmed on both sides (Step 2) and that the access slot has been enlarged sufficiently (Step 3).
Check all fasteners with a torque wrench and re-tighten to the required specification: M8 CL8 fasteners to 18 Lb.-Ft. (23 N*M), M8 CL10.9 fasteners to 27 Lb.-Ft. (37 N*M), and 7/16 GR5 fasteners to 50 Lb.-Ft. (68 N*M). The manual recommends checking the hitch frequently to ensure all fasteners remain properly tightened.
Yes, this T-Connector is designed for the Ford Escape. The installation instructions are specific to this vehicle model.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring harness that connects between your vehicle's taillight sockets and a trailer. It allows you to control trailer lights (stop, turn, and tail lights) from your vehicle's electrical system.
You will need: Trim Panel Remover, 8mm Socket & Ratchet or 8mm Wrench, Drill with 3/32" Drill Bit, 1/4" Socket, Wire Crimpers, Wire Cutters, Philips Head Screwdriver, and Test-probe.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's Negative (−) battery cable before connecting the power wire to the battery's Positive (+) terminal. Reconnect the Negative cable only after the fuse holder is properly installed.
Open the tailgate and remove the two 8mm hex head bolts on each side of the taillight assembly. Carefully pull the taillight away from the vehicle, being careful not to damage the alignment pins. Remove the taillight housing and set it aside.
Disconnect the vehicle wiring harness from both taillight sockets. Separate the connector carefully, being careful not to break the locking tabs. Ensure all connector surfaces are clean and free of dirt before reconnecting.
Route the T-Connector end with the yellow wire out through the grommet hole on the driver's side. Plug it between the taillight socket and vehicle harness on the driver's side. Route the wire inside the vehicle through interior trim panels, then route the T-Connector with the green wire down the threshold plate, up through the passenger side trim panel, and out through the grommet hole. Route the 4-Flat connector through the driver's side trim panel into the spare tire compartment and store it there when not in use.
On the driver's side near the connectors, locate a suitable grounding point. Drill a 3/32" hole and secure the white wire with an eyelet using the screw provided. Do not drill into any exposed surfaces. Always verify what is behind any surface prior to drilling to avoid damage to the vehicle and personal injury.
The power wire is black, 12 gauge (12 ga.). It connects from the T-Connector box to the vehicle's battery Positive (+) terminal through a 15 amp fuse holder.
Locate the black 12 ga. power wire from the T-Connector box. Route it through a grommet and along the exterior frame, or follow existing wiring along the thresholds into the engine compartment up to the battery, avoiding areas that may pinch or break the wire. Disconnect the vehicle's Negative (−) battery cable. Remove the fuse from the yellow fuse holder (provided). After cutting the fuse holder wire, attach the ring terminal and secure it to the vehicle's Positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 ga. wire using the yellow butt connector (provided). Reconnect the Negative (−) battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Install a 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder. This protects the circuit from overload.
Do not exceed the lower of your vehicle manufacturer's rating or: Maximum stop/turn light: 2 per side (4.2 amps); Maximum tail lights: (7.5 amps). Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Refer to your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information.
All connections must be complete for the T-Connector to function properly. Test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition.
Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness with the cable ties provided to prevent damage or rattling. Be careful to avoid any areas that would pinch, cut, or melt the wire.
Reinstall the taillight assemblies and other items removed during installation, being careful not to pinch or cut the wires.
Yes, the T-Connector (part 118715-037) is designed for the Ford Escape.
You need: Trim Panel Remover, 8mm Socket & Ratchet or 8mm Wrench, Drill with 3/32" Drill Bit, 1/4" Socket, Wire Crimpers, Wire Cutters, Philips Head Screwdriver, and Test-probe.
Yes, you must drill a 3/32" hole on the driver's side near the connectors to secure the white ground wire with an eyelet. Always verify what is behind the surface before drilling.
Yes, you must disconnect the vehicle's Negative (−) battery cable before connecting the power wire to the Positive (+) terminal. Reconnect it only after the fuse holder is installed.
The T-Connector uses a 15 amp fuse in the yellow fuse holder provided.
Test with a test light or trailer once installed. For the initial test, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition.
Verify that all connections are complete. The T-Connector will not function properly if any connection is incomplete. Test the installation with a test light or trailer. If the initial test fails, reset the vehicle electrical system by temporarily removing the key from the ignition, then retest. Ensure the 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown.
Check that both the yellow and green T-Connector plugs are fully seated between the taillight sockets and vehicle wiring harnesses on both the driver's and passenger's sides. Verify that the locking tabs are not broken and that all connector surfaces are clean. Ensure the 15 amp fuse is installed and not blown. Test the installation with a test light or trailer to verify proper operation.
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