2015-2018 Ford Edge Titanium and Sport Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install KitTekonsha$241.93Out of Stock
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2018 | Ford Edge | — |
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring harness system designed for the Ford Edge. It allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's electrical system by tapping into the existing taillight circuits. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded ends (yellow for driver's side, green for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector for the trailer, and all necessary fasteners and connectors.
Yes, the T-Connector 118669-037 is designed for the Ford Edge. However, you should verify compatibility with your specific model year and trim level by consulting the vehicle's owner's manual and the instruction sheet provided with the product, as the manual does not specify which model years are supported.
You will need: #2 Phillips screwdriver, trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and a test probe. Safety glasses are also required.
The T-Connector includes: a black converter box, color-coded wiring harness (yellow wires for driver's side, green wires for passenger's side), a 4-Flat connector, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing the harness, an eyelet and screw for grounding, a yellow fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse, and yellow butt connectors. The 4-Flat connector bracket is not included and must be sourced separately.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before beginning installation. This is done in step 6, after routing the black 12 ga. wire. The negative cable is reconnected in step 9 after the fuse is installed.
The installation sequence is: (1) Remove taillight housing assemblies and disconnect vehicle wiring harness; (2) Insert yellow-wire T-Connector end at driver's side taillight; (3) Route green-wire end to passenger's side and 4-Flat under bumper; (4) Insert green-wire end at passenger's side taillight; (5) Locate and drill grounding point, secure white wire; (6) Disconnect negative battery cable, cut fuse holder wire, attach ring terminal to positive battery cable, connect fuse holder to black 12 ga. wire with yellow butt connector; (7) Route black 12 ga. wire from front along frame rail to rear; (8) Connect black 12 ga. wire to black wire from converter box at rear driver's side; (9) Reconnect negative battery cable and install 15 amp fuse; (10) Mount converter box on driver's side with double-sided tape; (11) Reinstall taillight housings and secure harness under bumper with cable ties.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on the driver's side. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area, then drill a 3/32" hole. Secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury, and do not drill into any exposed surfaces.
The T-Connector uses a 15 amp fuse. This fuse is installed in the yellow fuse holder provided with the kit and is inserted in step 9 after the negative battery cable is reconnected.
The T-Connector harness has three color-coded sections: yellow wires connect at the driver's side taillight, green wires connect at the passenger's side taillight, and a white wire provides the ground connection. The black 12 ga. wire carries power from the vehicle's positive battery cable (via the fuse holder) to the converter box. The converter box has a black wire that connects to the black 12 ga. power wire at the rear driver's side.
The black 12 ga. power wire is connected to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable through a fuse holder. The fuse holder wire is cut, and a ring terminal is attached and secured to the positive battery cable. The other end of the fuse holder is connected to the black 12 ga. wire using a yellow butt connector. A 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. The negative (-) battery cable must be disconnected before making these connections and reconnected after the fuse is installed.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle, route the black 12 ga. wire rearward along the frame rail. Route it carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. At the rear driver's side, locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body and route the wire up through this hole to connect to the black wire from the converter box.
Two yellow butt connectors are provided: one connects the fuse holder to the black 12 ga. power wire (step 6), and another connects the black 12 ga. power wire to the black wire from the converter box at the rear driver's side (step 8).
After reinstalling the taillight housing assemblies, secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper using the cable ties provided with the kit. Be careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire. Position the vehicle wiring harness between the taillight housing and the vehicle body.
On the driver's side, locate a flat surface in an out-of-the-way place and mount the black converter box using the double-sided tape provided. The epoxy side of the module must point toward the ground to prevent water buildup.
Mount the 4-Flat connector in a suitable location under the vehicle. A bracket is not included with the T-Connector kit, so you will need to source one separately.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum stop/turn light is 2 per side (4.2 amps total), and maximum tail lights is 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and instruction sheet for additional information about your specific towing capacity.
After installation is complete, test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting an actual trailer. This confirms that all connections are correct and the system is functioning properly before towing.
Open the tailgate. Using a trim panel remover, remove the square covers to expose the taillight screws. Remove the screws with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Carefully pull the taillight away from the vehicle, being careful not to damage the alignment pins.
Disconnect the vehicle wiring harness from both taillight sockets. On the driver's side, fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. Plug the yellow-wire end in between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and vehicle wiring harness. Repeat this process on the passenger's side with the green-wire end, routing it carefully to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, fuel tank, or points that may pinch or break the wire.
You need: #2 Phillips screwdriver, trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, test probe, and safety glasses.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery cable before installation (step 6) and reconnect it after installing the 15 amp fuse (step 9).
Yes, you must drill a 3/32" hole for the ground wire connection (step 5). Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Verify what is behind the surface before drilling.
The T-Connector uses a 15 amp fuse, installed in the yellow fuse holder provided with the kit.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting a trailer to confirm all connections are correct before towing.
Yellow wires connect at the driver's side taillight, green wires at the passenger's side taillight, and the white wire provides ground. The black 12 ga. wire carries power from the battery.
Test and verify the installation with a test light or by connecting a trailer. Check that: (1) the 15 amp fuse is properly installed in the fuse holder, (2) all wire connections are secure, especially the yellow butt connectors at the battery and converter box, (3) the yellow-wire end is properly plugged into the driver's side taillight socket, (4) the green-wire end is properly plugged into the passenger's side taillight socket, (5) the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean grounding point, and (6) the negative battery cable is fully reconnected.
The circuit is overloaded. Do not exceed the maximum electrical load: 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps total) or 7.5 amps for tail lights. Do not exceed your vehicle's towing manufacturer rating. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Verify your trailer's light configuration and amperage draw against these limits. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual for your specific towing capacity.
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