2015-2018 Ford Edge Except Sport & Titanium Tekonsha Custom 7-Way + Brake Controller Install KitTekonsha$240.04Out of Stock
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Tekonsha is a leading manufacturer of electronic trailer brake controllers, pioneering the category in the 1970s. The lineup spans proportional units such as the Prodigy P3 and Prodigy iD, time-delayed controllers, the wireless Prodigy RF, plus vehicle-specific wiring harnesses, adapters and trailer brake components engineered for smooth, predictable stopping at any speed.
Tekonsha Engineering Company began in 1964 building RV steps and mirrors. Within a few years it had found its real calling, and by the 1970s Tekonsha was pioneering the manufacture of electronic trailer brake controllers, the product category that still defines the brand. More than half a century later it remains the reference name in trailer braking and is part of the Horizon Global group alongside Reese, Draw-Tite, Fulton, Bulldog and Wesbar.
A brake controller is the component that tells a trailer's electric brakes how hard to work and when, and getting that right is the difference between a controlled stop and a shove from behind. Tekonsha builds both major types. Proportional controllers use an internal accelerometer to sense how quickly the tow vehicle is slowing and apply trailer braking to match, so light braking stays light and hard braking is immediate. Time-delayed controllers ramp to a preset output over a fixed interval, a simpler and more economical approach that suits occasional towing.
The current brake controller range covers most of that ground. The Prodigy iD pairs with a phone through Tekonsha's EDGE technology for setup and monitoring, the P3 offers storable settings for multiple trailers and a trilingual colour LED display, the Prodigy P2 adds a dimmable display and boost mode for heavier loads, and the Voyager keeps operation simple and dependable. The Prodigy RF mounts to the trailer itself and controls wirelessly, which suits rental fleets and drivers who swap tow vehicles.
Installation is supported by vehicle-specific brake control harnesses that plug into a factory connector rather than requiring cut-and-splice wiring, along with mounting brackets and adapters. Matched controller bundles pair a unit with the correct harness. Products are tested to meet and often exceed published industry standards.
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2018 | Ford Edge | — |
The BRAKE mate is a trailer brake control system that allows you to control trailer brakes from your vehicle. It connects to your vehicle's electrical system and includes a brake control unit that mounts under the dash, circuit breakers for power management, and a prewired connector that attaches to your trailer.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with the BRAKE mate. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Step 4 of the installation instructions requires connecting the 4-pole flat connector to the vehicle's connector, which means your vehicle must already have a 4-pole flat connector. If your vehicle does not have one, the BRAKE mate cannot be installed using these instructions.
The kit includes: 1 prewired connector, 1 heavy duty flasher, 1 20 amp circuit breaker, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, and 6 wire tie straps.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need a drill (to create a firewall hole if one does not exist), wire strippers, a screwdriver (for self-tapping screws), and possibly a crimper or pliers for ring connectors. Contact technical service at (888) 521-0510 for a complete tool list.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected before installation. Contact Cequent Towing Products technical service at (888) 521-0510 for safety guidance before beginning work.
Mount the bracket for the round connector on the bumper if that is where you intend to install it. Some hitches have built-in brackets, so check your hitch first before mounting a separate bracket.
Mount the brake control unit under the dash onto something firm. The unit must be securely fastened to a solid surface.
Mount the 2 circuit breakers (20 amp and 40 amp) end to end on the firewall within reach of the BLUE/BLACK cable. Secure them with the self-tapping screws supplied in the kit.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire from the engine bay into the cab. Look for an existing spot first; if none is available, drill a hole and seal it with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the cab.
Some hitch brackets may need to be cut to allow the various connectors to pass through. Check your specific hitch bracket during installation; if it blocks connector passage, you will need to cut it.
Yes. In step 9, you must cut the black wire to create two open ends. These ends are then fitted with ring connectors and attached to the 40 amp and 20 amp circuit breakers respectively.
WHITE = ground wire; BLUE/BLACK = 2-strand power and trailer brake wire (runs from rear connector to front of vehicle and through firewall); RED = power wire from brake control unit; BLUE = trailer brake wire from brake control unit; GREEN = wire from brake control unit to brake switch.
Connect the WHITE ground wire to the frame of the vehicle. This provides the ground connection for the system.
Run the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail to the front of the vehicle, avoiding the exhaust, axles, and brake cables. Secure it with the plastic tie straps supplied. Then run it up the firewall, avoiding the steering mechanism, and secure it with ties.
Split the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire down the middle. Connect the RED (power) wire of the brake control unit to the BLACK wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the BLUE (trailer brake) wire of the brake control unit to the BLUE wire using a Scotch lock. Connect the WHITE wire of the brake control unit to the ground on the vehicle body. Connect the GREEN wire of the brake control unit to the inactive side of the brake switch.
Run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or equivalent power source to the battery side of either circuit breaker. Attach a #10 G-ring connector to one end of the wire. Then split a wire off this main wire to the 20 amp breaker using a Scotch lock and attach a #10 G-ring connector to the end of this wire. Alternatively, you can run a jumper between the two breakers.
The circuit breakers protect the electrical system. The 40 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going to the rear connector. The 20 amp breaker is connected to the auxiliary side of the wire going through the firewall to the brake control unit.
The heavy duty flasher is a replacement turn signal flasher. If your turn signals blink too fast after installation, replace your vehicle's original turn signal flasher with the one supplied in the kit.
After attaching the round connector with self-tapping screws, test the connector for: running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Note that the brake control output cannot be tested unless a trailer is connected to the connector.
If the turn signals are blinking too fast after installation, replace the turn signal flasher with the heavy duty flasher supplied in the BRAKE mate kit.
After drilling a hole through the firewall to run the BLUE/BLACK wire into the cab, seal the hole with a rubber grommet or silicone to prevent water and debris from entering the vehicle.
When running the BLUE/BLACK 2-strand wire along the frame rail and up the firewall, avoid the exhaust, axles, brake cables, and steering mechanism. These components can damage the wire or be damaged by it. Secure the wire with the supplied plastic tie straps.
Your vehicle must have a 4-pole flat connector. Contact Cequent Towing Products at (888) 521-0510 or check a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model, and year.
The kit includes a prewired connector, brake control unit, 20 amp and 40 amp circuit breakers, 5 #10 G-ring connectors, 2 3/8" G-ring connectors, 5 Scotch locks, 8 self-tapping screws, 6 wire tie straps, and a heavy duty flasher.
You may need to drill a hole through the firewall to run the brake wire into the cab if an existing hole is not available. The hole must be sealed with a rubber grommet or silicone.
Connect WHITE (ground) to frame, RED (power) to BLACK wire, BLUE (trailer brake) to BLUE wire, GREEN to brake switch, and run BLUE/BLACK from rear connector through firewall to brake control unit.
Test for running lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hot wire (power). Brake control output cannot be tested without a trailer connected. If turn signals blink too fast, replace the flasher with the one supplied.
Avoid routing the BLUE/BLACK wire near the exhaust, axles, brake cables, or steering mechanism. Secure all wires with the supplied plastic tie straps.
The T-Connector is a trailer wiring interface that allows you to connect a trailer to your Ford Edge Titanium. It intercepts the vehicle's taillight signals and converts them to a 4-Flat trailer connector, enabling the trailer lights to synchronize with your vehicle's brake, turn, and tail lights.
Yes, the T-Connector 118677-037 is designed for the Ford Edge Titanium. The manual does not specify compatibility with other Ford Edge trim levels or model years, so confirm your vehicle matches before purchasing.
You will need: #2 Phillips screwdriver, trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" drill bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and a test probe. A test light or trailer is also required to verify the installation after completion.
The kit includes: T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, black converter box, 4-Flat connector, white ground wire with eyelet and screw, 15 amp fuse in yellow fuse holder, yellow butt connectors, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, and cable ties for securing the harness. The bracket for the 4-Flat connector is not included.
Yes. You must disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable before proceeding with the installation. This is done in step 6 before connecting the fuse holder to the positive battery cable. Reconnect the negative battery cable after installing the 15 amp fuse in step 9.
Yes. You must open the tailgate and remove both taillight housing assemblies. Use a trim panel remover to remove the square covers and expose the taillight screws. After removing the screws, carefully pull the taillight away from the vehicle without damaging the alignment pins. The T-Connector harness is then plugged into the taillight sockets.
On the driver's side, fish the T-Connector end with yellow wires up between the bumper and vehicle body into the taillight pocket. Plug the yellow-wire end between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and vehicle wiring harness. On the passenger's side, route the green-wire end up through the opening and repeat the same plugging procedure. The T-Connector sits between the vehicle harness and the taillight socket on both sides.
Route the 4-Flat connector underneath the bumper. The manual states it should be mounted in a suitable location under the vehicle, but the bracket is not included. You will need to source an appropriate bracket separately and secure the 4-Flat in a location that is protected and accessible for trailer connection.
Beginning from the front of the vehicle, route the black 12 gauge wire rearward along the frame rail. Be careful to avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. Route the wire to the rear driver's side and locate the opening between the vehicle rear bumper and body. Route the wire up through this hole and attach it to the black wire from the T-Connector black box using the supplied yellow butt connector.
Yes. You must drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector on the driver's side. Clean dirt and rustproofing from the area first. Do not drill into the vehicle floor or bed. Before drilling, verify what is behind the surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Secure the white wire using the eyelet and screw provided.
The ground wire hole is 3/32" in diameter. The white ground wire is secured using an eyelet and screw that are provided in the kit. The eyelet is inserted through the drilled hole and the screw fastens it to the vehicle body.
The fuse rating is 15 amps. The fuse holder is connected between the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable and the black 12 gauge wire that runs to the rear of the vehicle. The fuse is installed in step 9 after the negative battery cable is reconnected. If the fuse holder is provided with a fuse already installed, remove it before cutting the fuse holder wire and attaching the ring terminal to the positive battery cable.
The T-Connector uses yellow wires on the driver's side taillight connection, green wires on the passenger's side taillight connection, white wire for the ground connection, and black 12 gauge wire for the positive battery connection. The black converter box also has a black wire that connects to the black 12 gauge wire from the battery using a yellow butt connector.
Disconnect the vehicle's negative (-) battery cable first. If the fuse holder comes with a fuse installed, remove it. Cut the fuse holder wire and attach the ring terminal to the vehicle's positive (+) battery cable. Connect the other end of the fuse holder to the black 12 gauge wire using the yellow butt connector provided. After all other connections are complete, reconnect the negative battery cable and install the 15 amp fuse into the fuse holder.
Mount the black converter box on the driver's side in a flat surface location that is out of the way. Use the double-sided tape provided to secure it. The epoxy side of the module must point toward the ground to prevent water buildup. This is a critical orientation requirement.
After reinstalling the taillight housing assemblies, position the vehicle wiring harness between the housing and the vehicle body. Secure the remainder of the T-Connector harness under the bumper with the cable ties provided. Be careful to avoid any areas that would cut or pinch the wire.
Do not exceed the lower of your towing manufacturer's rating or these limits: maximum stop/turn light is 2 per side (4.2 amps total); maximum tail lights is 7.5 amps. Overloading the circuit can cause fires. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the towing manufacturer's instruction sheet for additional information about your specific towing capacity.
After installation is complete, test and verify the installation with a test light or trailer. Use a test probe to check that the trailer connector is receiving the correct signals from the vehicle's brake, turn, and tail lights. This verification step is required before towing.
Wear safety glasses during installation. Read and follow all vehicle warnings and installation instructions before beginning. Before drilling, verify what is behind any surface to avoid damage to the vehicle or personal injury. Do not drill into exposed surfaces, the vehicle floor, or bed. When routing wires, carefully avoid hot pipes, heat shields, the fuel tank, or any other points that may pinch or break the wire. Read and follow all warnings and cautions printed on the tow vehicle's battery.
The T-Connector 118677-037 is designed for the Ford Edge Titanium. Confirm your vehicle matches this model before purchasing.
You need: #2 Phillips screwdriver, trim panel remover, drill with 3/32" bit, 1/4" socket, wire crimpers, wire cutters, and test probe. A test light or trailer is required to verify installation.
Yes, disconnect the negative (-) battery cable before starting. Reconnect it after installing the 15 amp fuse in the fuse holder.
The fuse rating is 15 amps. It connects between the vehicle's positive battery cable and the black 12 gauge wire running to the rear.
Do not exceed: 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or 7.5 amps for tail lights. Overloading can cause fires. Consult your towing manufacturer's rating.
Test the installation with a test light or trailer to verify all connections are working correctly before towing.
First, verify the installation with a test light or trailer as instructed. Check that the 15 amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. Verify that the T-Connector yellow-wire end is properly plugged between the mating plugs on the driver's side taillight socket and vehicle wiring harness, and that the green-wire end is properly plugged on the passenger's side. Ensure the black 12 gauge wire is properly connected to the vehicle's positive battery cable through the fuse holder and to the black wire from the T-Connector black box. Check that the white ground wire is securely fastened to a clean metal surface on the vehicle body. If all connections are secure and the fuse is good, the converter box may be faulty.
The black converter box must be mounted with the epoxy side pointing toward the ground to prevent water buildup. If water is accumulating, the module is mounted upside down or at an angle. Remount the converter box using the double-sided tape so that the epoxy side faces downward. This is a critical orientation requirement.
A repeatedly blown fuse indicates an electrical overload or short circuit. Check that you are not exceeding the maximum electrical ratings: 2 stop/turn lights per side (4.2 amps) or 7.5 amps for tail lights. Verify that the trailer lights are not drawing more power than the T-Connector is rated for. Inspect all wire connections, especially the yellow butt connectors, to ensure they are secure and not corroded. Check that the white ground wire is securely fastened to a clean metal surface and that the connection is not loose. If the fuse continues to blow after these checks, there may be a short circuit in the wiring or a faulty converter box.
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