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Complete CURT Class 4 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2015 - 2026 Ford F-150 w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next item is on your to-do list -- whether it's arriving at the jobsite before dawn or getting your travel trailer set up in time to see the sunset -- CURT class 4 trailer hitches offer greater towing power to let you Bring It. These custom receiver hitches are built to tackle bigger jobs and bolder adventures, all while giving you a custom fit for your vehicle. Class 4 hitches are available for a variety of makes and models, from pickup trucks and SUVs to full-size and commercial vans. This particular class 4 hitch fits certain years of the Ford F-150 (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 10,000 lbs. GTW and 1,000 lbs. TW. It can also accept a weight distributing hitch, offering a maximum WD capacity of 12,000 lbs. and a WDTW of 1,200 lbs. CURT class 4 tow hitches are as much suited for work as they are for play. With their high load capacities, they are typically used for towing larger trailers, including everything from a double-axle utility trailer or livestock trailer to a full-length camper or large boat trailer (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). All CURT class 4 receiver hitches come with a 2" receiver tube opening and all the necessary hardware for a complete installation. From light-duty to heavy-duty, every CURT custom hitch is engineered to be vehicle-specific, using actual vehicles to create the optimal design. We then combine high-strength steel, precise welding and a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and durable black powder coat to provide you with a hitch you can depend on. To prove it, we test all our hitches in accordance with SAE J684 for safety.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Ford F-150 with LED taillights, backup sensors and onboard scale (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2026 | Ford F-150 | w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver |
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Yes, the 21 - 23 Ford F-150 w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-way Wiring Kit 14021 (Part #CHW-1031) is designed to fit the 2021-2023 Ford F-150.
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-way Wiring Kit 14021 (Part #CHW-1031) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2023 Ford F-150. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-way Wiring Kit 14021 (Part #CHW-1031) fits 2021-2023 Ford F-150 models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 21 - 23 Ford F-150 w/ Backup Sensors & With factory receiver Curt 2", Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-way Wiring Kit 14021 (Part #CHW-1031) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 14021 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 10,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 1,000 lbs. For weight distribution towing, the capacity is 12,000 lbs GTW with 1,200 lbs tongue weight.
Yes. The installation requires lowering the spare tire before beginning work and raising it back into position after final torque is applied.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 15/16" socket, 13mm socket, and masking tape. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
If present, yes. Using a 10mm socket, remove the grounding cable from the rear of the passenger-side frame rail in Step 1. Return the fastener to the vehicle owner. Reinstall it in Step 5 using the provided M8 flange bolt.
Fishwire is a tool used to guide bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rails. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, thread the bolt into the coil, kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole.
All 5/8" fasteners must be torqued to 180 lb-ft in Step 6 after the hitch is raised into final position.
The kit includes: 2 U-shaped spacers (3/16" x 1" x 2"), 6 square-hole spacers (3/8" x 1-1/4" x 2-1/2"), 4 carriage bolts (5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8), 4 serrated-flange nuts (5/8"-11, grade 8), 4 fishwires (5/8"), and 1 flange bolt (M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9).
The installation difficulty level is rated as Easy. However, the actual time and effort may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. If a harness plug is present on the driver-side frame rail, it must be pulled out in Step 2 before installation. After the hitch is raised into position in Step 5, the harness plug is pushed into the 1" hole on the hitch plate on the driver side.
The U-shaped spacer is taped into the recess in the frame at the rearward most holes (Step 3). Two U-shaped spacers are included in the kit (item #1, 3/16" x 1" x 2").
Square-hole spacers (item #2, 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 2-1/2") are threaded onto the 5/8" carriage bolts along with fishwire in Step 4. Two spacers are fishwired through either an access hole or the end of the frame on each side, then pulled into final position in Step 5.
1. Remove ground cable (if present) and lower spare tire. 2. Pull out harness plug (if present). 3. Tape U-shaped spacers into frame recesses at rearward holes. 4. Fishwire carriage bolts and square-hole spacers through access holes on both sides. 5. Raise hitch into position, pull fishwires to final position, remove fishwires, loosely install serrated-flange nuts, reinstall ground cable and harness plug. 6. Torque all 5/8" fasteners to 180 lb-ft and raise spare tire.
No. In Step 5, the serrated-flange nuts are loosely installed after the fishwires are removed and the hitch is in final position. They are fully torqued to 180 lb-ft in Step 6.
Four carriage bolts are used (item #3, 5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8). Two are fishwired through each side of the vehicle frame in Step 4.
The carriage bolts are 5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8. Four bolts are included in the kit (item #3).
The serrated-flange nuts are 5/8"-11, grade 8. Four nuts are included in the kit (item #4) and are torqued to 180 lb-ft in the final step.
The flange bolt is M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9 (item #6). One bolt is included in the kit and is used to reinstall the ground cable in Step 5.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval.
The manual specifies that periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure, but does not provide a specific maintenance schedule or interval.
The Curt 56486 is a powered converter wiring harness that converts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to power a trailer's lights using your truck's existing taillight circuits. The system includes a converter box, custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), and a 4-flat connector for trailer attachment.
The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It is not compatible with positive ground or 24-volt systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your truck uses a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, 8mm socket, socket extension, drill, 3/32" drill bit, fish wire (or equivalent such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string), and a cutting tool. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with colour-coded wires (yellow, green, red, brown), white ground wire with ring terminal, 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a ground screw, and a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the passenger side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the 10-amp fuse has been installed.
Yes. You must remove both taillights to access the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors. Open the tailgate, use an 8mm socket to remove the two bolts securing each taillight, then carefully remove the taillight straight back from the vehicle. Set them aside in a safe place.
Use fish wire to pull the harness through the vehicle cavity. Insert fish wire through the blind hole where the taillight was removed and locate it on the other side. Tape the custom wiring harness (starting with the yellow wire on the driver side) to the fish wire and pull it back up into the taillight opening. If the harness gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
After routing the custom wiring harness through the vehicle cavity using fish wire, attach it to the vehicle taillight harness. The connectors on the custom harness are similar to those on the vehicle's taillight housing. Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors from the housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs, then connect the custom harness.
Route the 4-flat connector along the rear bumper using cable ties as needed to secure any loose wires. Mount the 4-flat near the receiver tube. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling is required only for the ground wire connection. You must locate a grounding point on the driver side frame—either an existing screw or bolt, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable point exists. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection on the driver side frame. This hole is used to secure the white ground wire with ring terminal using the provided ground screw. Before drilling, ensure the area is free from rust, dirt and paint, and check for hidden items behind or under the surface.
Signal circuits (left and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use an 8mm socket with a ratchet to remove the two bolts securing each taillight in place. Open the tailgate before removing the bolts.
Yellow wire = left turn signal; Green wire = right turn signal; Red wire = brake signal; Brown wire = taillight (running lights). The white wire is the ground connection. These colour-coded wires connect to the vehicle's taillight harness and the converter box to route signals to the 4-flat trailer connector.
For trucks, the wiring locations are: T1 = behind driver side taillight housing; T2 = behind passenger side taillight housing; T3 = behind driver side rear bumper; T4 = behind center of rear bumper fascia; T5 = behind passenger side rear bumper. The manual notes that a representative vehicle is shown and actual locations may vary.
Route a 12-gauge or larger wire from the converter to the positive battery terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Install the 10-amp fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Install a 10-amp maximum fuse in the fuse holder provided. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with 10-amp max. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Protect the power wire from sharp edges using an existing grommet, adding a grommet, or using silicone when passing through sheet metal. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from spray and debris from rear wheels and road.
After installation, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights. The taillights on the vehicle to be towed should function along with the taillights on the vehicle that is powering them. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight) are working correctly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown in the manual. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the system by connecting a trailer with functioning lights to verify all circuits work properly.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues. Check the converter box mounting to ensure it remains secure and in a protected area away from spray and debris.
The Curt 56486 is designed for trucks with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle uses this system by checking your owner's manual or contacting the vehicle manufacturer. The manual does not specify vehicle model years, bed lengths, or cab styles, so contact Curt Manufacturing or your dealer for fitment confirmation.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the 10-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling is required only for the ground wire connection. Drill a 3/32" pilot hole on the driver side frame if no existing bolt or screw is available. Check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
Use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install it after all other steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the converter to the battery. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components, and protect it from sharp edges using a grommet or silicone.
If the harness gets hung up on something while being pulled through, stop pulling. Push the fish wire back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Then try pulling again. This technique helps free the harness from any obstructions inside the cavity.
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