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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2021 - 2026 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Hyundai Elantra (excluding N and N Line; to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Hyundai Elantra (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2026 | Hyundai Elantra | Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid |
The 21 - 23 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11630 (Part #CHW-1809) fits 2021-2023 Hyundai Elantra models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 21 - 23 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11630 (Part #CHW-1809) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2023 Hyundai Elantra. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 21 - 23 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11630 (Part #CHW-1809) is designed to fit the 2021-2023 Hyundai Elantra.
The 21 - 23 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid Curt 1-1/4", Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 11630 (Part #CHW-1809) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part 56470 is a custom wiring harness with powered converter system designed for passenger cars. It provides electrical connections for trailer lighting by interfacing with the vehicle's taillight wiring and includes a converter box that processes the vehicle's taillight signals. The system includes a 4-flat connector for trailer attachment.
The 56470 is designed for passenger cars with accessible taillight wiring. The manual specifies it is for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Specific vehicle makes, model years and body styles are not listed in the manual. Contact the manufacturer or check the product listing for your specific vehicle compatibility.
No. The manual explicitly states this converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, pliers, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with yellow, green, black, white, red and brown wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a ring terminal for the ground wire, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, and a screw for the ground wire attachment. A separate 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' is also provided.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until after all wiring is complete and tested.
You must remove: floor coverings, two cargo hooks on each side of the threshold, the threshold itself (by removing the push fastener under the trunk latch), the threaded cargo net mount from the post, and two small push fasteners in both sidewalls to pull out the trunk liner. Use the panel trim removal tool to release push fasteners. You may also need to use the tool to release push fasteners on the underside of the skid plate.
In Step 4, pull back the sidewall panels to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors on the driver side. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
In Step 5, locate a flat spot inside the vehicle on the driver side and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify exact dimensions or clearance requirements for this location.
In Step 6, route the green wire along the back of the trunk below the skid plate to the passenger side of the vehicle. Locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Install the housing with the green wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
In Step 7, route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'. The power wire must be 12 gauge or larger, routed to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole to mount the ground wire. This connection is shown on the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire connection. You may need to drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire's ring terminal to the vehicle body. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage. No other drilling is mentioned as required for the installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. The fuse holder is included in the kit. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete, not before.
The power wire must be 12 gauge or larger. This is specified on the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'.
If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire's ring terminal to the vehicle body using the provided screw.
The wire colors and their functions are: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Taillight (running light), White = Ground, Black = Power (positive battery connection).
The manual provides these wiring locations for passenger cars: P1 = Behind driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P2 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P3 = Behind driver side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P4 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P5 = Behind driver side rear bumper; P6 = Behind center of rear bumper; P7 = Behind passenger side rear bumper. The specific location on your vehicle may vary.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk to the trailer, being sure to stay clear of the trunk's latching mechanism.
The manual does not specify a towing load rating. It states only that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Refer to the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for towing capacity information.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual notes that once installed, you should test for proper function before considering the installation complete.
Reinstall all items that were removed during installation, including the floor coverings, cargo hooks, threshold, cargo net mount, sidewall panels, and trunk liner. After reinstalling everything, reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning of the installation. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties, and keep the 4-flat dust cover installed when the connector is not in use to help prevent corrosion.
The 56470 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Specific vehicle makes and model years are not listed in the manual. Check the product listing or contact the manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your vehicle.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, pliers, and electrical tape. All other required components are included in the kit.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until after all wiring is complete and tested.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
After connecting the power wire and battery, verify the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer before considering installation complete.
The CURT 11630 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicles, years, cab styles, bed lengths or drivetrains the 11630 is designed for. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com for vehicle compatibility information.
You will need: 11/16" socket, 10mm socket, ratchet, drill, 1/2" drill bit, marker, and flathead screwdriver. A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar are helpful for exhaust isolator removal. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to support the exhaust and carefully lower it by removing three rubber isolators. The exhaust is reinstalled in Step 8 after the hitch is secured.
Yes. In Step 6, you must drill rearmost attachment holes in the frame rail in the marked area using a 1/2" drill bit. The trim diagram on page 4 shows the hole locations: 7" from the rear, 2" from the front, 3" from the side, and 4-1/2" spacing.
Torque all 7/16" carriage bolts and serrated flange nuts to 59 ft-lbs. Use the specified torque to prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Retorque intervals are not specified in the manual; contact CURT at 877-287-8634 for guidance.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. All non-trailer loads applied to the hitch must be supported by stabilizing straps (part #18050).
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 4 carriage bolts (7/16"), 4 square hole spacers (2-1/4" x 0.88" x 1/4"), 4 serrated-flange nuts (7/16"), and 4 fishwires (7/16"). All fasteners are included; no additional hardware is required for installation.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. This rating is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
The four square hole spacers (2-1/4" x 0.88" x 1/4") are positioned between the carriage bolts and the vehicle frame rail to provide proper spacing and alignment. They are threaded onto the fishwire along with the carriage bolt and pulled through the frame rail into the mounting holes.
In Step 1, remove the underbody panel from the driver-side rear frame rail using a small screwdriver and 10mm socket. In Step 3, remove the heat shield nut from the bottom of the passenger-side frame rail, flatten the heat shield against the frame rail, and remove the rubber plug from the bottom of each frame rail. Return all removed parts to the vehicle owner after installation.
Step 2 requires removing three rubber isolators to lower the exhaust. If exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open end wrench: slide it up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
The fishwire technique guides the carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rail to the mounting holes, preventing loss of hardware inside the frame. The coiled end of the fishwire is inserted through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, then passed through the spacer and threaded into the bolt coil. The fishwire is kinked to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pulled to guide the hardware through the frame and out the mounting hole.
The reverse pull fishwire technique is an alternative method shown on page 2. Attach the fishwire to the carriage bolt and slide the spacer onto the fishwire. Push the bolt through the hole followed by the spacer, then pull the bolt back into position, protruding from the frame. This technique can be used if the standard fishwire method is not suitable for your installation.
The hitch uses four mounting holes total: two existing access holes in the frame rail (used in Step 4) and two rearmost holes that you drill in Step 6. The drilling locations are marked after the hitch is temporarily positioned in Step 5. The trim diagram shows the hole spacing: 7" from the rear, 2" from the front, 3" from the side, and 4-1/2" between holes.
Use a 1/2" drill bit to drill the rearmost attachment holes in Step 6. The holes are drilled in the marked area on the frame rail after the hitch is temporarily positioned and marked in Step 5.
Yes. In Step 8, the lower body panel removed in Step 1 must be trimmed using the trim diagram for reference before reinstallation. The trim diagram on page 4 shows the trim dimensions: 7" from the rear, 2" from the front, 3" from the side, and 4-1/2" spacing.
The hitch uses four 7/16" carriage bolts (#2) and four 7/16" serrated-flange nuts (#4). All 7/16" hardware must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs during final assembly in Step 7.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to the hitch must be supported by stabilizing straps (part #18050). See the CURT catalog or visit curtmfg.com for further information on proper load securing.
After installation, verify that all mounting hardware is tight and structural components are secure. Periodic inspection should be performed to ensure hardware remains tight over time. The manual does not specify a retorque interval; contact CURT at 877-287-8634 for maintenance schedule recommendations.
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