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| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2024 | Hyundai Elantra | Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid |
Yes, the 21 - 24 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1405 (Part #7WK1405) is designed to fit the 2021-2024 Hyundai Elantra.
The 21 - 24 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1405 (Part #7WK1405) fits 2021-2024 Hyundai Elantra models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 21 - 24 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1405 (Part #7WK1405) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2024 Hyundai Elantra. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 21 - 24 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, excluding N, N Line, or Hybrid CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1405 (Part #7WK1405) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56470 is a custom wiring harness with powered converter system designed for passenger cars. It provides electrical connections for trailer lighting by interfacing with the vehicle's taillight wiring and includes a converter box that processes the vehicle's taillight signals. The system includes a 4-flat connector for trailer attachment.
The 56470 is designed for passenger cars with accessible taillight wiring. The manual specifies it is for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Specific vehicle makes, model years and body styles are not listed in the manual. Contact the manufacturer or check the product listing for your specific vehicle compatibility.
No. The manual explicitly states this converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, pliers, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes: a black converter box, custom wiring harness with yellow, green, black, white, red and brown wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a ring terminal for the ground wire, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, and a screw for the ground wire attachment. A separate 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' is also provided.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until after all wiring is complete and tested.
You must remove: floor coverings, two cargo hooks on each side of the threshold, the threshold itself (by removing the push fastener under the trunk latch), the threaded cargo net mount from the post, and two small push fasteners in both sidewalls to pull out the trunk liner. Use the panel trim removal tool to release push fasteners. You may also need to use the tool to release push fasteners on the underside of the skid plate.
In Step 4, pull back the sidewall panels to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors on the driver side. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
In Step 5, locate a flat spot inside the vehicle on the driver side and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify exact dimensions or clearance requirements for this location.
In Step 6, route the green wire along the back of the trunk below the skid plate to the passenger side of the vehicle. Locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Install the housing with the green wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
In Step 7, route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'. The power wire must be 12 gauge or larger, routed to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole to mount the ground wire. This connection is shown on the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire connection. You may need to drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire's ring terminal to the vehicle body. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage. No other drilling is mentioned as required for the installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. The fuse holder is included in the kit. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete, not before.
The power wire must be 12 gauge or larger. This is specified on the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'.
If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire's ring terminal to the vehicle body using the provided screw.
The wire colors and their functions are: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Taillight (running light), White = Ground, Black = Power (positive battery connection).
The manual provides these wiring locations for passenger cars: P1 = Behind driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P2 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P3 = Behind driver side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P4 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P5 = Behind driver side rear bumper; P6 = Behind center of rear bumper; P7 = Behind passenger side rear bumper. The specific location on your vehicle may vary.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk to the trailer, being sure to stay clear of the trunk's latching mechanism.
The manual does not specify a towing load rating. It states only that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Refer to the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for towing capacity information.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual notes that once installed, you should test for proper function before considering the installation complete.
Reinstall all items that were removed during installation, including the floor coverings, cargo hooks, threshold, cargo net mount, sidewall panels, and trunk liner. After reinstalling everything, reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning of the installation. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties, and keep the 4-flat dust cover installed when the connector is not in use to help prevent corrosion.
The 56470 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Specific vehicle makes and model years are not listed in the manual. Check the product listing or contact the manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your vehicle.
You will need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, cutting tool, wire stripper, pliers, and electrical tape. All other required components are included in the kit.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until after all wiring is complete and tested.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
After connecting the power wire and battery, verify the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer before considering installation complete.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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