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2022 - 2023 Hyundai Kona N
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| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S5,S7 |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2023 | Hyundai Kona N | — |
The 22 - 23 Hyundai Kona N CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1430 (Part #7WK1430) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona N. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 22 - 23 Hyundai Kona N CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1430 (Part #7WK1430) fits 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona N models. The 2023 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 22 - 23 Hyundai Kona N CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1430 (Part #7WK1430) is designed to fit the 2022-2023 Hyundai Kona N.
The 22 - 23 Hyundai Kona N CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK1430 (Part #7WK1430) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56504 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter designed to provide trailer lighting control on passenger cars. It converts the vehicle's factory taillight and turn signal wiring to control a trailer's lights. The system includes a converter module, custom wiring harness with color-coded wires (red for brake, yellow for left turn, green for right turn, brown for taillight), a 4-flat connector for the trailer, and all necessary hardware for installation.
The Curt 56504 is designed for passenger cars with a rear hatch. The manual shows wiring locations for passenger cars (P1–P7) and assumes the vehicle has a driver-side battery location, accessible taillight and turn signal housings, and a rear hatch with floor board and storage tray. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle model and year.
Yes. The converter system is designed exclusively for 12-volt negative ground systems. If your vehicle uses a different electrical system configuration, this product is not compatible.
The required tools are: ratchet, 10 mm socket, panel trim removal tool, and a medium Phillips head screwdriver. The manual also recommends having an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint from grounding points, and a test light or functioning trailer to verify proper function after installation.
The kit includes a custom wiring harness with color-coded wires (red, brown, yellow, green, black, and white), a powered converter module, a 4-flat connector, cable ties, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a ground screw, sealant for the grommet, a 4-flat dust cover, and a 10-amp fuse holder with fuse. The manual references a 'Hardware Photo' on page 1 showing all included items.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Locate the vehicle battery under the hood on the driver side (consult your vehicle owner's manual for exact location), and disconnect the negative terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the system.
The installation is rated as 'Easy'. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and whether proper tools and equipment are available.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal. (2) Open the rear hatch, remove the floor board and storage tray to access the spare tire. (3) Remove the hatch threshold trim using a trim tool. (4) Remove the driver-side wall hatch screws and loosen the sidewall trim. (5) Locate and separate the factory taillight wiring connectors, then install the T-end with red and brown wires into the disconnected factory wiring. (6) Mount the converter module near the rubber grommet on the floor below the sidewall trim using double-sided tape, and install the ground wire by removing the grommet from the body. (7) Locate a grounding point and secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal. (8) Route the custom wiring through the grommet behind the taillight, cut a slit in the grommet, and route the brown and red wires through; reseat the grommet and seal with provided sealant. (9) Route the harness through the grommet and locate the turn signal housing under the driver-side rear bumper; install the T-end with yellow wires into the disconnected factory wiring. (10) Route the T-end harness with green wire and 4-flat along the bumper to the passenger side, securing with cable ties but leaving loose for adjustment; repeat step 9 with the green wire on the passenger-side turn light. (11) Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet', then verify function with a test light or trailer before reconnecting the battery terminal.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors (they will be similar to those on the custom wiring product). Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Locate the T-end on the custom harness with the red and brown wires. Install this T-end between the separated factory connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. The T-end allows the custom wiring to tap into the factory taillight circuit.
From under the driver-side rear bumper, locate the turn signal housing and separate the connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. On the custom wiring harness, locate the T-end with the yellow wires (for left turn signal). Install this T-end between the separated factory connectors, ensuring full insertion with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side with the T-end containing the green wire (for right turn signal). The T-ends allow the custom wiring to tap into the factory turn signal circuits.
Mount the converter module on the floor below the sidewall trim, near the rubber grommet. The area must be a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to secure the converter. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape.
Locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. Route the custom wiring end with the brown and red wires out through the grommet opening and through the slit in the grommet. After inserting the custom wiring end between the separated connectors, reseat the grommet. Use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires to prevent water intrusion.
Route the T-end harness with the green wire and the 4-flat connector along the bumper to the passenger side. Route the 4-flat near the hitch in the center of the vehicle. Secure using cable ties but leave loose for later adjustment. When in use, route the 4-flat with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint (use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it). Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. You must cut a slit in the grommet behind the taillight to route the custom wiring end with the brown and red wires through. The slit must be large enough to accommodate the wiring. After routing the wires, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all the wires.
The signal circuits (left turn, right turn) are rated for 3.0 amps per side.
The tail and running circuits are rated for 6.0 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
The power wire from the battery must be 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
If you need to drill a pilot hole for the ground wire fastener, the hole size is 3/32". The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint before drilling.
The custom wiring harness uses the following color coding: Red = Brake signal, Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Brown = Taillight/running light, Black = Power (positive), White = Ground (negative). These colors correspond to standard trailer lighting functions.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery location to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
The white ground wire has a ring terminal. Attach the ring terminal to the vehicle body using either an existing screw or bolt in the frame, or with the provided ground screw. If using the provided screw, drill a 3/32" pilot hole if necessary. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint (use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it). The ground wire is removed from the rubber grommet on the floor below the sidewall trim.
The black power wire must be connected to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a '+' symbol) as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and electrical shock.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified technician for proper grounding procedures specific to your vehicle.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a '+' symbol) as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and electrical shock. Fasten the negative battery wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The electrical ratings are: Signal circuits 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running circuits 6.0 amps total. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your vehicle's lamp load rating.
After all installation steps are complete and before reconnecting the negative battery terminal, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This ensures all connections are correct and the system is operating properly before use.
After installation is complete, reinstall all items that were removed during the installation process. This includes the sidewall trim, driver-side wall hatch, hatch threshold trim, storage tray, and floor board. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the system regularly, especially after towing or exposure to harsh weather conditions. Ensure the 4-flat connector is stored with the provided dust cover when not in use to help prevent corrosion.
The Curt 56504 is designed for passenger cars with a rear hatch and 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle has a driver-side battery location and accessible taillight and turn signal housings. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify compatibility with your specific model and year.
You need a ratchet, 10 mm socket, panel trim removal tool, and medium Phillips head screwdriver. You may also need an abrasive pad or paper to clean the grounding point, and a test light or functioning trailer to verify proper function after installation.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. If the system does not function, check that: (1) all T-end connectors are fully inserted into the factory wiring connectors with locking tabs in place; (2) the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free grounding point; (3) the black power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal; (4) the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder; (5) all wire connections are secure and not damaged; (6) the negative battery terminal is reconnected. If the system still does not function, consult the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified technician.
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