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2022 - 2024 Kia Niro
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2024 | Kia Niro | — |
Yes, the 22-24 KIA Niro 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1597 (Part #HBCW1597) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Kia Niro.
The 22-24 KIA Niro 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1597 (Part #HBCW1597) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Kia Niro. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 22-24 KIA Niro 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1597 (Part #HBCW1597) fits 2022-2024 Kia Niro models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22-24 KIA Niro 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1597 (Part #HBCW1597) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 12171 is designed for 2017-Present Kia Niro CUV models. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
The CURT 12171 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 3,500 lbs. and tongue weight of 350 lbs. when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Check your vehicle's owner manual for the final towing limit.
The CURT 12171 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball).
No, but the exhaust system must be lowered during installation. The installation requires removing 3 rubber exhaust isolators (1 on the driver side, 1 on the passenger side, and 1 in the center) to lower the exhaust. These isolators are then reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
No. The CURT 12171 requires no drilling. It uses existing weld nuts on the frame rails and the fishwire method to route fasteners through access holes in the frame.
A 3" x 5" section of the plastic panel must be trimmed using aviation shears. The panel is temporarily removed during installation, the trim section is marked out using masking tape, and you should confirm the trim prior to reinstallation. The panel is then reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 12mm socket, 16mm socket, 11/16" socket, masking tape, aviation shears, and safety glasses. A screwdriver is also needed to remove plastic push pins during step 2.
The kit includes: 4 M10x1.25 hex cap screws (part 10-10271), 4 conical tooth washers 3/8" (part 30-00148), 2 7/16"-14 UNC carriage bolts 1-1/4" (part 10-10281), 2 7/16"-14 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00103), 2 square hole spacers .250 x .88 x 2.25" (part CM-SP2), and 2 pieces of 7/16" fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE).
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes this as a helpful recommendation but does not state it as a strict requirement.
Professional installation time is approximately 45 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 20 minutes.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
All M10 hardware (the 4 M10x1.25 hex bolts) must be torqued to 45 ft-lbs. All 7/16" hardware (the 2 carriage bolts and 2 flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to achieve these specifications.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, so consult CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 for guidance on inspection frequency.
The fishwire method is used to route the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes. Two 7/16" fishwires are reversed (fed through) the access hole on each side of the frame rail to pull the bolts and spacers into position. The fishwires are then removed and the bolts are secured with flange nuts.
1. Remove the metal exhaust guard and lower the exhaust system. 2. Trim the plastic panel. 3. Use fishwires to route the 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes. 4. Raise the hitch into position and feed the fishwires through the center hole. 5. Remove the fishwires and loosely secure with 7/16" hex flange nuts. 6. Install the 4 M10 hex bolts and 4 conical tooth washers (2 on each side). 7. Torque all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. and all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs. 8. Reinstall the exhaust system and plastic panel.
The 7/16" carriage bolts and flange nuts should be loosely secured initially in step 4. All fasteners are then fully torqued in step 6 after the M10 bolts and washers are installed. This sequence ensures proper alignment before final tightening.
The 4 bolts securing the metal exhaust guard are removed and returned to the customer. The manual does not indicate they are reused in the hitch installation, so they should be retained by the vehicle owner.
Yes, the CURT 12171 is designed for 2017-Present Kia Niro CUV. Maximum trailer weight is 3,500 lbs. and tongue weight is 350 lbs., but never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame rail weld nuts and the fishwire method to route fasteners through access holes.
A 3" x 5" section of plastic panel must be trimmed using aviation shears. The panel is temporarily removed, the trim section is marked with masking tape, and confirmed before reinstallation.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 12mm/16mm/11/16" sockets, masking tape, aviation shears, screwdriver, and safety glasses.
M10 hex bolts: 45 ft-lbs. 7/16" carriage bolts and flange nuts: 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench for accuracy.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Read all instructions before beginning. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. If hesitant, contact an authorized CURT installer.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Consult CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 for recommended inspection intervals.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56376 is a custom wiring harness that integrates trailer lighting circuits with your vehicle's electrical system. It provides signal circuits rated at 3.0 amps per side and tail/running circuits rated at 6.0 amps total, allowing you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat connector.
Yes, the Curt 56376 is designed for the Kia Niro. The installation instructions are specific to this model and include detailed steps for accessing the taillight connectors and interior trim panels on this vehicle.
The manual only confirms fitment for the Kia Niro. Do not assume it fits other Kia models. Contact Curt Manufacturing or check the fitment database for compatibility with other vehicles.
You will need: ratchet, ratchet extension, 10mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. A drill may be needed if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw is not available.
The harness includes: custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, white ground wire with ring terminal, provided screw for grounding, black converter box with double-sided tape, 4-flat connector with dust cover, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
You must remove: all trunk floor coverings and storage trays, the rear scuff panel (secured by Phillips screws), the lower interior side trim panel fasteners, and the upper side trim panel (using a panel trim removal tool). The taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the interior side panel, wrapped in foam tape.
Remove the foam tape from the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors and separate them from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
The yellow wire end connects to the driver side taillight connector, and the green wire end connects to the passenger side taillight connector. The green wire end is routed down behind the interior side panel and out to the passenger side to complete the installation on both sides of the vehicle.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire installation. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing screw with nut is not available in the vehicle frame near the taillight connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, to avoid loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route it to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Locate a flat spot near the taillight wiring harness that is out of the way of the side trim panels. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This helps keep the installation neat and prevents wires from interfering with trim panels or other components.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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