15 - 21 Subaru WRX CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2322CURTOriginal price was $233.80. Current price is $220.56.In Stock
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2022 - 2024 Subaru WRX
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| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2024 | Subaru WRX | — |
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2321 (Part #7WK2321) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Subaru WRX. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22 - 24 Subaru WRX CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2321 (Part #7WK2321) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Subaru WRX.
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2321 (Part #7WK2321) fits 2022-2024 Subaru WRX models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22 - 24 Subaru WRX CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2321 (Part #7WK2321) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56516 is a powered converter system that provides trailer lighting control for passenger cars. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) into a 4-flat trailer connector. The system includes a converter module, wiring harness with yellow (left turn), green (right turn), red (brake), and brown (tail/running) wires, and a white ground wire.
The Curt 56516 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify compatible makes, models, or years. Consult the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
No. The manual states this converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Required tools are: panel removal tool, wire cutter, wire stripper, ratchet, 10mm socket, crimp tool, and Phillips screwdriver. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The manual shows a hardware photo and product photo but does not itemize all included components. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: yellow, green, red, and brown signal wires; white ground wire with ring terminal; black power wire; converter module; 4-flat dust cover; cable ties; ground screw; double-sided tape for converter mounting; and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. Refer to the product packaging or contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery, look up its location in your vehicle owner's manual, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and before testing.
Yes. Step 2 and Step 3 require you to open the trunk, remove the taillight fastener trim cover with a Phillips screwdriver (one screw per side), and use a 10mm socket to remove two taillight fasteners per side. Pull the taillight straight back and separate the wiring connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Use a fishwire (a stiff wire, cut-up wire hanger, rope, or string) to route the wires through blind holes in the vehicle body. Insert the fishwire through the hole and locate it on the other side. Tape the harness to the fishwire and pull back up. If the wire gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it, or twist it to loosen it. Starting on the driver side, attach the yellow wire to the fishwire and pull the harness up the body to attach to the factory wiring between the separated taillight connectors. Run the green wire along the back of the bumper to the passenger side, keeping clear of the exhaust, then repeat with the green wire routing to the passenger taillight cavity.
After routing the yellow wire up the driver side of the vehicle body using a fishwire, attach it to the factory wiring between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat the same process with the green wire on the passenger side. Then reinstall the taillights on both sides, installing them in the taillight cavities.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint if necessary. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole and use the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet on page 5 of the manual. The black wire must be connected to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse holder. Install the fuse only after all other steps are complete. Route the 12-gauge wire to the battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Mount the converter module using the provided double-sided tape. The exact mounting location is not specified in the manual; refer to the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet diagram or contact Curt Manufacturing for the recommended location on your vehicle.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse only after all other installation steps are complete.
If drilling a new ground hole is necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The white ground wire with ring terminal is then secured to the vehicle frame using either an existing fastener or the provided ground screw.
The power wire is 12-gauge (12 GA) or larger. This wire connects from the vehicle battery positive terminal to the converter module and must be routed through a fuse holder with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Signal circuits (left turn and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yellow = Left turn signal. Green = Right turn signal. Red = Brake signal. Brown = Tail/Running lights. White = Ground. Black = Power (connects to positive battery terminal through fuse holder).
P1 is behind the driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk. P2 is behind the passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk. These are the locations where the yellow and green signal wires connect to the factory taillight connectors.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not reconnect it until all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The ground area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole only after confirming there are no hidden components.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being damaged and reduces the risk of electrical short circuits.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms that all signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) are working correctly before using the system.
After testing the system with a test light or functioning trailer: reinstall all items removed during installation (taillight trim covers, taillights, trunk items); reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected; install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion; and secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevents electrical failures.
The Curt 56516 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle make, model, and year.
You will need: panel removal tool, wire cutter, wire stripper, ratchet, 10mm socket, crimp tool, and Phillips screwdriver.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the system has been tested.
Drilling is required only if no suitable existing fastener or bolt is available for the ground wire. If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole in the vehicle frame after checking for hidden items behind or under the surface.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Brown = Tail/Running lights, White = Ground, Black = Power (to battery positive terminal through fuse).
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (risk of short circuit, sparks, and electrical shock). Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
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