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2023 - 2026 Toyota Crown
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2023 - 2026 Toyota Crown. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Toyota Crown (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 525 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Toyota Crown (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 - 2026 | Toyota Crown | — |
Total for 4 items:
$500.98$668.41
Yes, the 23 - 24 Toyota Crown Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13582 (Part #CHW-2874) is designed to fit the 2023-2024 Toyota Crown.
The 23 - 24 Toyota Crown Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13582 (Part #CHW-2874) fits 2023-2024 Toyota Crown models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 23 - 24 Toyota Crown Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13582 (Part #CHW-2874) fits the following vehicles: 2023-2024 Toyota Crown. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 23 - 24 Toyota Crown Curt 2", Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 4-flat Wiring Kit 13582 (Part #CHW-2874) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13582 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs. and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 350 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, drilling is not required. However, hole enlargement is required using a die grinder to enlarge the existing rubber frame plugs to accept the carriage bolts and square hole spacers.
Yes. You must trim the lower bumper cover access doors and the center lower bumper tab. The manual provides a diagram showing the trim areas. You will also need to remove the recovery loop and lower the exhaust system temporarily during installation.
Required tools: 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm, and 3/4" sockets; 3" socket extension; ratchet; torque wrench; die grinder; aviation shears or knife; and an exhaust isolator removal tool. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar can substitute for the isolator removal tool if needed.
The kit includes: 2 fishwires (7/16"), 2 square hole spacers (0.25" × 0.88" × 2.25"), 2 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 UNC, 1-3/4"), 2 serrated-flange nuts (7/16"-14 UNC), 4 hex head cap screws (M8 × 1.25"), 4 flat washers (5/16"), and 4 lock washers (5/16").
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for clarification before beginning installation.
You do not need to fully remove the exhaust system, but you must temporarily lower it. This involves unhooking the two rubber isolators from the muffler (one on each side), removing the isolators from the mounting brackets, and removing the two mounting brackets with a 12mm socket. The bolts should be returned to the vehicle owner. The exhaust is reinstalled in Step 10.
The exhaust isolator removal tool is a specialized tool for unhooking rubber isolators from the muffler. If you do not have this tool, you can use a 5/8" open-end wrench and a pry bar instead. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod, then place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod and rotate the pry bar toward the wrench. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps with removal.
The reverse pull fishwire technique is used to guide carriage bolts through the frame rails. Attach the fishwire to the carriage bolt, slide the square hole spacer onto the fishwire, push the bolt through the hole followed by the spacer, then pull the bolt back into position so it protrudes from the frame. The fishwires remain attached until Step 8, when they are removed and replaced with hex flange nuts.
Follow this sequence: (1) Remove the two bolts from the lower bumper cover access doors with a 10mm socket (Step 1). (2) Remove the two bolts from the recovery loop with a 17mm socket (Step 2). (3) Lower the exhaust by unhooking the rubber isolators and removing the mounting brackets with a 12mm socket (Step 3). (4) Trim the bumper cover and center lower bumper tab (Step 4). (5) Remove the rubber frame plugs and enlarge the holes with a die grinder (Step 5).
Raise the hitch into position by angling the side plates over the exhaust pipes and the main cross member tube over the bumper cover and into the bumper cavity. While raising the hitch, thread the fishwires into the mounting holes. The hitch side plates will sit between the frame and the exhaust mounting brackets.
You must trim the lower bumper cover access doors and the center lower bumper tab. The manual provides a diagram showing the trim areas. Use aviation shears or a knife for this task.
Remove the rubber frame plugs from the bottom of the frame rails on both sides. Using a die grinder, enlarge the holes to accept the supplied 7/16" carriage bolts and square hole spacers. The manual does not specify the final hole size; consult the manufacturer if you need exact dimensions.
Torque all M8 bolts (hex head cap screws) to 23 ft-lbs. Torque all 1/2" fasteners (the 7/16"-14 UNC carriage bolts with serrated-flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening.
Torque all M8 bolts (hex head cap screws) to 23 ft-lbs.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners (the 7/16"-14 UNC carriage bolts with serrated-flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify an inspection interval; contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 for recommended maintenance schedules.
Yes, the recovery loop can be optionally reinstalled backwards from its original position into the previously used frame weldnuts with the original fasteners. This is optional and not required for hitch operation.
No drilling required, but hole enlargement with a die grinder is needed. Bumper trimming and temporary exhaust lowering are also required.
10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm sockets; torque wrench; die grinder; aviation shears; and exhaust isolator removal tool (or 5/8" wrench and pry bar).
M8 bolts: 23 ft-lbs. 1/2" fasteners (carriage bolts): 110 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench for all fasteners.
Gross trailer weight: 3,500 lbs. Tongue weight: 350 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Yes. You must temporarily lower the exhaust by unhooking the rubber isolators from the muffler and removing the mounting brackets. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
The Curt 56536 is a wiring converter system for passenger cars that enables trailer lighting control. It converts your vehicle's factory taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to safely tow a trailer with proper brake, turn signal, and running light function. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness, and all necessary connectors and hardware.
The Curt 56536 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make, and model to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
No. The Curt 56536 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Using it on any other system will not function properly and may cause damage. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system voltage and ground type before installation.
You will need: a ratchet, a 10mm socket, a panel trim removal tool, and a fish wire or equivalent (such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) to route wires through blind holes. You may also need an abrasive pad or paper to clean rust and paint from a grounding point, and a drill with a 3/32" bit if you need to create a new ground hole.
The kit includes a black converter box, wiring harness with connectors (green, yellow, white, and black wires), a white ground wire with ring terminal, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a ground screw, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, and sealant for the grommet. The manual also references a 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' with additional details on the power lead assembly.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the system has been tested.
Open the trunk and then open the access cover on the passenger-side trunk cover to locate the vehicle battery. The manual notes that battery location may differ depending on the vehicle, so consult your vehicle owner's manual if you cannot locate the access cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal; (2) Remove both driver and passenger side taillights using a 10mm socket and panel trim removal tool, and separate the taillight connectors; (3) Remove the 10mm bolt on the bumper cover below the taillight fasteners and connect the green wire to factory wiring on the passenger side; (4) Mount the converter box between the bumper cover and vehicle using double-sided tape; (5) Locate or drill a ground point and secure the white ground wire; (6) Route the yellow wire and 4-flat connector from passenger side to driver side using fish wire; (7) Connect the yellow wire to driver-side factory taillight wiring; (8) Route the black power wire through the passenger-side taillight grommet to the battery and connect it; (9) Reinstall all removed items, reconnect the battery, install the 4-flat dust cover, and secure loose wires with cable ties.
Using a panel trim removal tool, loosen the driver-side taillight trim cover. Use a 10mm socket to remove two fasteners securing the taillight. Pull the taillight straight back to remove it. Locate and separate the taillight wiring connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside. Repeat this process for the passenger-side taillight.
Locate a mounting spot for the converter box between the bumper cover and the vehicle. Pull back on the bumper cover to fit the module in the opening. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The box must be mounted in a protected area; failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. Keep the black and white wires above the bumper cover.
Fish wire is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Make sure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Fish wire can be anything from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string depending on what is needed.
Route the fish wire from under the passenger side of the vehicle to the taillight opening. Pull the yellow wire and 4-flat down to the rear bumper, routing them to the driver side. Route the 4-flat to the middle of the vehicle next to the receiver hitch. The yellow wire is then fished up the driver side to the factory taillight wiring and connected.
Locate the lower right grommet in the passenger-side taillight opening. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the black power wire through this hole. Route the black power wire through the grommet and grommet hole down towards the battery. Pull back on the felt trunk liner to route the power wire to the battery. Connect the black power wire to the battery as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'. Reseat the grommet in its hole and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it if necessary.
Yes. You must locate the lower right grommet in the passenger-side taillight opening, remove it, and cut a slit large enough to route the black power wire through this hole. After routing the power wire, reseat the grommet in its hole and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
The signal circuits are rated for 5.0 amps per side.
The tail and running light circuits are rated for 7.5 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
The power wire should be 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. Route it to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
If you need to create a new ground point, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it before securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal.
The wiring harness uses the following color code: Green = Right turn signal; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn signal; Brown = Taillight (running lights). The white wire with ring terminal is the ground wire, and the black wire is the power wire that connects to the positive battery terminal.
The green wire (right turn signal) should be connected to the factory wiring on the passenger side. After removing the 10mm bolt on the bumper cover below the taillight fasteners, locate the housing with the green wire on the harness and connect it to the factory wiring.
The yellow wire (left turn signal) should be routed from the passenger side to the driver side using fish wire. Once routed to the driver-side taillight opening, fish wire the yellow wire up to the factory taillight wiring and connect it.
Route the black power wire (12 GA or larger) through the passenger-side taillight grommet down to the battery. Connect the black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal, as shown on the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet'. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse, installed after all other steps are complete. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
The white ground wire has a ring terminal that should be secured to the vehicle body. Locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if necessary. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. Consult the 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' for specific guidance on this configuration.
The manual does not specify a towing capacity. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for information about your vehicle's towing capacity and lamp load rating.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Before drilling or routing wires, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter box must be mounted in a protected area between the bumper cover and the vehicle. Failure to mount it in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route the 4-flat with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, being sure to stay clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual also recommends testing for proper function before completing the installation by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
After installation, verify that all items removed during installation have been reinstalled. Ensure the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm proper operation.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Yes, the Curt 56536 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle's compatibility before purchasing.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection if no existing fastener is available. You will drill a 3/32" pilot hole. You must also cut a slit in the passenger-side taillight grommet to route the power wire.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12 gauge) wire or larger for the power wire to the battery. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The installation is rated as Easy. However, difficulty may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools and equipment.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on both sides of the blind hole before attempting to pull it through.
Verify that the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Check that all wire connections are secure and properly seated, especially the green wire to factory wiring on the passenger side and the yellow wire to factory wiring on the driver side. Ensure the black power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal, and that the white ground wire is securely fastened to a clean, rust-free ground point. Confirm that the 15-amp fuse is installed and not blown.
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