91 - 95 Plymouth Voyager Excluding Stow 'n Go CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2115CURT$169.85In Stock
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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1991 - 1995 | Plymouth Voyager | Excluding Stow 'n Go |
The 91 - 95 Plymouth Voyager Excluding Stow 'n Go CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2114 (Part #7WK2114) fits 1991-1995 Plymouth Voyager models. The 1995 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 91 - 95 Plymouth Voyager Excluding Stow 'n Go CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2114 (Part #7WK2114) fits the following vehicles: 1991-1995 Plymouth Voyager. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 91 - 95 Plymouth Voyager Excluding Stow 'n Go CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2114 (Part #7WK2114) is designed to fit the 1991-1995 Plymouth Voyager.
The 91 - 95 Plymouth Voyager Excluding Stow 'n Go CURT Trailer Brake Controller 7-Way Upgrade Kit 7WK2114 (Part #7WK2114) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 55323 is designed for Dodge Dakota pickup trucks. Installation involves removing the two Phillips screws from the driver side taillight assembly, separating the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors, and inserting the custom harness ends (yellow wire to driver side, green wire to passenger side) between the separated connectors.
Yes, the Curt 55323 is compatible with Chrysler Town & Country vans. For vans, installation does not require removing screws; instead, you remove the driver side taillight to access the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors, then insert the custom harness ends (yellow wire to driver side, green wire to passenger side) between the separated connectors.
Yes, the Curt 55323 is listed as compatible with both Plymouth Voyager and Plymouth Grand Voyager. These are classified as SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, so they follow the 'All Vans' installation procedure, which does not require removing screws from the taillight assembly.
Yes, the Curt 55323 is compatible with Mitsubishi Raider pickup trucks. The Raider follows the pickup truck (T) installation procedure, which involves removing the two Phillips screws from the driver side taillight assembly and inserting the custom harness ends between the separated connectors.
You need a Phillips screwdriver. For vans, the screwdriver is used only to remove the taillight housing. For pickup trucks like the Dodge Dakota, the Phillips screwdriver is used to remove the two screws securing the driver side taillight assembly.
The Curt 55323 includes the custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends and a provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. The harness is designed to connect to your vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness connectors.
1. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the driver side taillight assembly. 2. Locate and separate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panels and repeat step 3 on the passenger side. 5. Reinstall all removed items and install the provided 4-flat dust cover.
1. Remove the driver side taillight to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. 2. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. 3. Starting from the center of the vehicle, route the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire to the driver side, tucking it between the bumper and body. Insert it between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. 4. Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire to the passenger side and repeat step 3. 5. Reinstall all removed items and install the provided 4-flat dust cover.
The yellow wire end of the harness is routed to and inserted at the driver side taillight connector. The green wire end is routed to and inserted at the passenger side taillight connector. This color coding ensures correct connection to each side of the vehicle.
For vans, you remove the driver side taillight to access the wiring harness connectors, but the manual does not specify whether the entire assembly must be removed or only partially disassembled. You separate the connectors from the taillight housing and then reinstall the taillight after connecting the custom harness.
Locking tabs are mechanical features on the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors that secure the connection in place. When you insert the custom harness ends between the separated connectors, you must ensure the locking tabs are fully engaged to prevent the connectors from coming loose.
The manual states that you must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. However, the specific product rating (amperage or wattage) is not provided in the installation instructions. Contact Curt Manufacturing or your vehicle manufacturer for the exact rating.
Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. You must not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific lamp load rating.
After installation, test for proper function by using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly before relying on it.
Yes, you should install the provided 4-flat dust cover after completing the harness installation. The dust cover helps prevent corrosion of the connectors and is part of the final installation step for both van and pickup truck applications.
For vans, start routing the custom wiring harness from the center of the vehicle. Tuck the wire between the bumper and the body as you route it to each side. This routing protects the harness from damage and keeps it out of sight.
On a Dodge Dakota, route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panels. This routing keeps the harness protected and out of the way.
The Curt 55323 is compatible with Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Dakota, Dodge Grand Caravan, Mitsubishi Raider, Plymouth Grand Voyager, and Plymouth Voyager. Vans and pickup trucks have different installation procedures.
You need only a Phillips screwdriver. For pickup trucks, it is used to remove the taillight assembly screws; for vans, it may be needed to remove the taillight housing.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, and the 4-flat dust cover is installed.
No. For vans (Chrysler Town & Country, Dodge Caravan, Dodge Grand Caravan, Plymouth Voyager, Plymouth Grand Voyager), you remove the taillight to access connectors but do not remove screws. For pickup trucks like the Dodge Dakota, you remove two Phillips screws from the driver side taillight assembly.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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